Greybeard

Looks like fully auto - is the switch on top of the camera set to AUTO?

you are probably in full auto or one of the scene or filter modes - are other options greyed out as well?

Turn it on in the AF Menu: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-s20/menu_shooting/af_mf_setting/index.html#subject_detection_setting or use a function button or the Q menu or do you mean something else?

I'm guessing its because the camera doesn't know what the minimum shutter speed is going to be until it makes a decision about which DR level to choose - and it doesn't do that until you half press the shutter.

1) The subject detection options will attempt to detect the shape of the subject (such as bird) - it doesn't matter what the bird is doing - although it finds it easier if there is good light and it can see an obvious bird head or eye. It will fallback to your AF Mode if it doesn't detect the subject. You can't select a Photometry option when Subject Detection is set. 2) Some of these are switches (like Subject Detection) which applies the action immediately and some take you to menu (like AF Mode) 3) I tend to leave OIS on in Shooting Only mode all the time but some think you should turn it off for high shutter speeds

I'm not really a Capture One user but have tried Capture One Express for Fujifilm - compressed raws work OK - as far as performance goes its swings and roundabouts - files are smaller but need more CPU for decompression - I doubt there is much difference in performance. You could always try downloading a few raw files from the review sites and give it a try.

That looks as though the raw image is corrupted - have you tried converting it using some other software? If you don't have anything else you could try the free FujiFilm raw conversion software and see if you get the same effect? If the file is OK and its just X Raw Studio maybe try a different cable - does it happen every time you try the same file? If you get the same with other software maybe its a card problem? Have you had the same problem with different cards?

I'm not sure if its a Fuji thing but it seems common on X series cameras - its annoying because there is still automation going on in M mode (if you are in auto ISO) and compensation would be helpful.

I don't know - but if I take a picture with my X-S10 and then some time later use the app to transfer the jpeg to my iPhone - then open the Apple Photos app and touch the "i" icon it shows the timestamp from when the image was taken not when it was transferred.

What exactly are you doing and how are you looking at the timestamp?

Thats an interesting question - there appear to be two different remote access interfaces to the camera : Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and USB - the USB interface does have a way of accessing a shutter count - I haven't seen any report that its available via Bluetooth/WiFi.

After lengthy discussion on a different forum it seems there may be issues if you want to geocode images and you use an Apple device. Whichever phone you have its necessary to first connect phone and camera via bluetooth (and turn on the geocoding and location sync settings in the camera). Apple devices will continue to send updated locations to the camera while the phone app is in the foreground OR the camera remains active. When the app goes into the background and the camera sleeps or is turned off and on it won't reconnect. Android devices will reconnect phone and camera even if the app is in the background. Only an issue if you are interested in using the app for geocoding. (The requirement for "always on" even if you are not geocoding seems like lazy programming but I doubt it has a really serious affect on the battery.)

Frustrating - Apple does now support uncompressed raw from the X-T5 and X-H2 which were released a long time after your camera. (Compressed raw isn't supported from any FujiFilm camera)

Hmm - I have the X-H2S rather than X-H2 but I ran that exact same test and shutter type M+E doesn't work like that - it allows the same extended shutter speeds as the electronic shutter.

So to be clear - if you set the camera on shutter priority and shutter type = "M" the highest speed achievable by rotating the command dial will be 1/8000. If you change shutter type to "E" (without changing anything else) the highest speed goes over 1/8000 if you change shutter type to "M+E" the shutter speed limit goes back to 1/8000? (Again without changing anything else?)

Also Photos won't show compressed RAF files - it can store them (and they are available for export) but they won't show or be processed in Photos.

Sorry couldn't help - frustrating - worked for me with both iPad and iPhone and both X-S10 and X-H2S - the wi-fi is slow but at least it works

Ah I see - did you get the "Waiting for Connected" message on the back of the camera when the app tried to join the Wi-Fi network? As a last resort you might try backing up all your settings and then doing a complete reset of everything.

At what point does it hang? Wi-fi needs to connect successfully in order for you take take photos in live view. If you have taken photos using live view do you see the "Download" and "Camera" icons at the top of the screen? Do you see the image you just took when you touch the download icon? If so do you get the "Transfer the selected Image" button after you select the image you just took? If so - and you press the image is that the point it hangs?

When you say "everything works" does that include the ability to use live view and take photos? What happens after you have taken a photo using live view? You switch to image transfer (at the top of the screen - the download icon) and see the image you have just taken - select the image and "Transfer the selected image" button should appear - do you see that? Does the button not transfer the image? Or where exactly is the problem? And what error message do you get (if any)?

yes

You don't need the zip file - put the DAT files on an empty SD card

No - its possible with the X-H2S but not the X-S10 - it could be added by firmware but doubtful that it will be

No never experienced that - there are options to turn on/off shutter AF for both AF-S and AF-C - do you have both (or the correct one) turned off?

You have chosen a conflicting setting - these depend on the camera model and its a bit difficult to diagnose at a distance - first step would be to make sure your drive mode supports Film Simulation (not Film Simulation bracketing for example).