BobJ

My copy is certainly very sharp at f2.8. So either you are doing something wrong or the lens is faulty.

I thought I had this problem. It turned out to be a failing Lexar 32Gb UHS2 card. It started giving random problems and is now completely dead. Windows reports it as 7.62 GB and cannot format it. Neither can the camera. I have never had a problem with Sandisk. Not only that but the read only switch is so loose I had to fix it in place with paint. I will never buy another Lexar.

As someone has already said, the kind of "distortion" that you are worried about is purely due to viewpoint and a rectilinear correction in the lens and is independant of sensor size or focal length. To take an identical picture from the same viewpoint as a 24mm on full frame requires about 16mm on apsc.

I must admit that I find the difference is small but it is there and the software is cheap.

You are quite right Elisha. I only use the grip when in continuous mode, so sorry for any confusion. However in boost with af-c it seems to discharge all three batteries together and what happens in practise is that they will in fact be discharged in a random manner. Battery 1 might be fully discharged and battery 2 half discharged for example. That's my experience at least. I wonder however if this might be due to differences in the state of the batteries. Some of mine are older than others and the newer ones may keep more charge.

I believe that in single focus mode the camera focuses at full aperture but in continuous mode it focuses stoped down.

The screen is almost certainly anti reflection coated. Don't touch it.

The old Cokins were linear. However almost all polarisers are circular nowadays. I can't say for sure if the X-t2 would be compatible with a linear but it is certainly ok to use a circular, so as long as you are sure it's a circular type it will be ok. You will lose 2 stops of light at the most which may not be enough for long exposures.

I believe that when the grip is in normal mode it will discharge the batteries in sequence but when in boost mode it is supposed to use them all together. However I can vouch for the uneven usage in boost. It seems almost random.

Iridient have just released a new version of X-Transformer.

I have seen a brand new 18-55 that was a bad example. Owned by a friend, it was considerably less sharp than mine, especially on the left hand side. He returned it for replacement. Bearing in mind that this is the kit lens it may be that quality control is not quite so good as with the more expensive lenses. Any difference in sharpness with the shoot without lens setting on is almost certainly down to experimental error. I can't see that it could possibly affect contrast or focal length. I could be wrong though so I will try it.

I was in the Lake District in February. I was off the path in the snow in a small valley and climbed up a steep slope to photograph some icicles. On the way down I slipped. I tumbled down the slope 'base over apex' and landed on top of the X-t2 with 18-55. I was seriously sore for the following week. The camera was covered in mud but otherwise unscathed. It taught me a lesson though. If I had broken an ankle I would probably still be there. The icicle pic was rubbish!

For what it's worth my 'review' of the two lenses is as follows. The 16-55 is nicer to use for landscape. Being constant aperture it has a marked aperture ring and it is weather resistant. But it's big, heavy, not much sharper than the 18-55 and doesn't have IS. I should have saved my money.

If your intention is to read about the techniques of photography I would recommend the books by Michael Freeman. The Photographer's Eye is a good one.

I have yet to try this but I don't think that it is intended to use a wireless access point. The camera is intended to work as stand alone.

I thought I should give the Fujifilm service in the UK a pat on the back. I have had three experiences with them, all positive. My X-T1 developed a flash fault. It was repaired under warranty. They had to replace the main circuit board. It was done very quickly (I can't rember exactly how long it took.). Then I had a problem with a huge piece of 'dust' on the inside of the rear element of my 10-24mm. I am pretty sure it was a piece of glue that had come loose. This was the only lens that I bought as a grey import, so I had to pay for the repair - be warned. Neither of these faults should have happened in the first place though. Most recently I lost the eyepiece cup on my then brand new X-T2. I was caught in a storm at Durness and I probably caught it on a divider in the backpack as I hurriedly put it away. I couldn't find a source for a replacement so I called Fuji service. They sent me one by return of post for free! By the way, the weather sealing of the X-T2 works very well!

I can recommend the batteries from EXpro. They have been ok for me. They also do chargers that will work from USB or a 12 volt car battery. See www.exprodirect.com/np-w126/ On the subject of how many batteries you need, it depends on many things but I would never go out for a day with less than three. I found this out with my first X, the XE-2. I took it on a trip to Romania with three batteries and a single charger and had to get up in the middle of the night to change the batteries in the charger as I had flattened all three. I don't fully agree with the switch it off between shots technique though. I do this whenever possible but if you are street shooting you will get many missed shots as a result.Even the lens you use will affect the battery drain. The 50-140mm eats batteries at a prodigous rate. Good luck with your adventures.

I have ran some quick tests and I can't reproduce this effect on my X-T2, although I suppose it might show up in some special case.

qwertz7, I have just tried it on my X-T2 which is currently set to 'standard' (Provia). The effect is opposite to what you describe. The shadows are lighter with pic effect off and the whole image becomes less saturated, in fact rather veiled and more noisy. I don't know how you have your camera set up but there is something wrong.

Luismanibarro, you say that vertical shooting is impossible due to the door extending beyond the bracket. Whilst this is true, it is not important. Even if the door was accomodated how would you mount the camera on the tripod head with a remote release cable hanging out? Fuji have an answer to this on the X-t2. Just use an old fashioned cable release on the release button. Such a release is better anyway because if you open the door and fit an electronic release you will compromise the weather sealing. I wouldn't trust an electronic release in rain.

You will find that if you turn it off there is a noticeable change in the displayed histogram. To see a histogram in raw that is rmost accurate turn it off.

Switch the camera to boost mode. It doesn't seem to make that much difference to the battery life but it transforms the camera, so I leave it on.

Nissin have released a firmware update for the i40. In the UK the importers are Kenro. You have to send the flash to them. They charged £24 and I got it back within three days. It now works on camera. I have found however that I can not use the flash off camera with the Canon style remote lead that I had for the X-T1.

Jerry, There is a firmware update for the i40 that fixes the problem. I live in the UK and approached Kenro, the importers. I had to send the i40 to them for updating which cost £24. It now works perfectly on camera but the Canon style remote lead that I was able to use on the X-T1 no longer works - so on camera only at present.

I have tried the Fujifilm Remote App it with my old HTC One X+ and also my tablet which is a Sony. Both are Android. The phone is 4.2.2, the tablet is release 5.1.1. It didn't work at first but alerted me that the App had to be updated. Once I had done that it all worked fine. As far as I know there is no way to work through a router. The phone or tablet performs that function itself.