pete1959

...or "DR Auto" might be blocking it as well.

Very simple solution here: Cut to the 3 minute mark in this video. Simply put, you first feed a piece of slim wire through, loop the peak design attachment loop though, and tug it through. There is NO NEED to remove the inner collars on the camera eyelets.
 
 
 

Is the dynamic range set at DR100? if it's set at DR200 then 320 will be the lowest ISO available
 

I have found the You Tube tutorials from Maarten Heilbron most useful - link here: 
 

You are in "C" mode.
In "C" continuous AF mode Eye AF does not work.
Face detection works, but not "eye"
Eye detection works only in "S" single.
 
 

Do you mean the 23mm/f1.4? Have you moved the focus ring on the lens forwards for autofocus mode?

Here is that other forums posters final report:
 
As you all know, Fujifilm is handling my repair under warranty and I will receive my camera on Monday. Some of you were asking for details on the cause and damage assessment. Below is an email I received from Fujifilm:
Your X-T2 body was evaluated by our technical staff and upon inspection moisture was found inside the camera body. This moisture had permeated some key components and was related to the camera malfunction you experienced. Although your camera is dust/moisture "resistant" and is weather sealed, it must have been exposed to a good amount of moisture. Body is not "water proof". In this case, we gave you the benefit of the doubt and decided to handle your service request under warranty at no charge. We appreciate your business.
Though Fujifilm is covering my repair under warranty it was done so by giving me the "benefit of the doubt." Therefore, this appears to be a subjective decision by Fujifilm to cover my repair under warranty. I wonder under what conditions Fujifilm would not cover repair of moisture damage under warranty? It appears that covering moisture damage under warranty is still a vague issue. Then again, for all we know, Fujifilm could be covering all moisture damage under warranty. Anyway, I'm thrilled that Fujifilm covered the repair and I have a very positive impression of Fujifilm and their customer service.

It can all get very confusing very fast:
 
:-)
 
here's an explanation...sorry if we get off track...
 
https://solarisstudios.com/weddings/image-resolution-72-dpi/

Thanks for the responses especially jlmphotos .
​Right about one thing as you use a system it gets easier.... it took a while to format the cards without searching the menus, but now I 've got it.
Although I complained about the shutter button height , it was more defined than other cameras I have owned. Just nit picking.
 
I retired from the business years ago and reclaimed my amateur status . When digital came around I couldn't resist taking a few jobs as long as my knees held out.
Now I 'm shooting mostly for pleasure and some volunteer event coverage .
 
Sold all of the big heavy stuff and now have a X-T2 and 3 zooms covering 10 - 200 mm also a cheap fisheye.  I dropped over half the weight and am having twice the fun.
The X-T2 is, hands down, the best camera I've ever owned.
 
High ISO's make available light the preferred method of most casual photographers. Unfortunately many talented photographers are ignoring the use of flash, which when mastered can make huge difference , especially in portraiture.   

I don't like how easy it is to press in the rear control wheel - makes actually turning it without pressing it quite awkward.
 
When set to use the front wheel for ISO or exposure compensation you are also offered the option to change aperture - when your lens has an aperture ring! Hence rather than knowing if it's on one setting a press to change to the other doesn't work as you have to check it's not on the non operational 'F' setting. Quite easy for them to sort out in a firmware update - I hope!
 
Limited options for the Q and "My Menu" are a pity.
 
I have set the front function button to duplicate the AF-L button for focussing giving me the option to use either!
 
I use a function button for the turn preview off 

The Fujifilm X-T2 is the best camera I ever had but there are things that I don’t like about it:
 
First:
Too many options.
This may seem like an advantage, but to me it causes confusion especially if you inadvertently tune in a option during a shoot and need to search the menus to figure out how to turn back to your preference. The more I get familiar with the camera this is likely to be less of a problem.
Second:
Battery life & Battery cost.  Battery does not last very long even with many settings to conserve life. The cost of the OEM battery is very high.
Aftermarket batteries are cheap but don’t last quite as long. I need at least 2 or 3 batteries for an average shoot. I have 7. 1 OEM and 6 after market.
This is an issue with most mirrorless based on small battery size and with more power needs.
Coming from a Pentax K3 which gave me about 550 shots even with a cheap battery and regular “chimping”.
Third:
The right front function button is activated too easily by picking the camera up. Fortunately you can disable the button, which I did.
Fourth:
Using rear button focus method is cumbersome due to the small size and placement of the AF-L and AE-L button when programed and the focus is disabled on the shutter button. I did go back to focus on the shutter button, but I programed the AF-L button to lock focus until pressed again (a feature I like a lot as long as I remember to press it to unlock focus). Also this does not reset when the camera is turned off, I’m not sure how I feel about this part yet.
Fifth:
I keep the camera in Eye sensor + EVF only mode to conserve battery (Re-learning not to “Chimp”). I think there should be an override when searching the menu so it shows on the rear display when menu is selected.
Sixth:
The shutter button height should be raised. I tried the little button, people are purchasing, to raise the height but lost it the first day. Also when turning on by pressing the button it often makes an exposure. I guess I would rather deal with this than a slow recovery.
Seventh:
EVF a bit too much contrast. Not a big deal once I got used to it and realized the highlights would be ok in exposure. The rear screen gives much better representation of the actual tonal range.
Eighth:
Setting the camera for use with manual flash requires setting to manual then turning preview exposure off. Why this can’t be done with a manual flash setting that automatically sets this. This is also hard to decipher from the manual. I did find the information on YouTube.
Ninth:
I am prone to leave a card in the computer then pick up the camera and go shooting. Then I am told there is no card in the camera and the camera won’t shoot until I either add a second card or select sequential in the menu. Why?
In closing my first mirrorless was a Samsung NX-10 that I sometimes used with an adaptor and Pentax lenses . The image quality was OK (14 mpxls) but the refresh rate and EVF were awful. The size and weight were the advantages but the limitations were not enough to keep it from E-bay. The Fujifilm X-T2 is likely the last system I will own. And I’m OK with that.

I owned the 56 1.2 for about a week.  Was shooting an event in a very well lit area.  POS refused to lock focus on the first, second and sometimes third or fourth attempt.  I switched over to my 35 1.4, and the 18-55 and it was bliss after that.  That happened on a Sunday.  The 56 went back on Monday.  Never again.  The amount of $ Fuji wants for that lens is not worth it (to me). Screw the "bokeh"  I can get just as nice with my 35 1.4, and with a manual 50 1.8 M42 screw mount pentacon

As an update:
 
I shot yesterday from 4 pm until 9:45 pm, or just under 5 hours.
 
Two X-T2's, both with battery grips, with all original Fuji batteries freshly and fully charged.
 
Boost mode on. No chimping. Turning off camera when not in use (about 60% or more of that time period?).
 
Camera 1: 516 shots and one battery remaining at 33%
Camera 2: 389 shots and one battery remaining at 66%
 
Total frames for those six batteries was 905 frames, with 33% and 66% remaining respectively.
 
Average number of shots per battery: 192
 
If I had run the remaining batteries down to zero my frame count would have been 580 and 517, or 1,097 total for the two bodies.
 
Battery drain between the two cameras seemed pretty consistent.
 
I had an additional six batteries available on this shoot, leaving me with an additional four to five hours of "working time" if I needed it.
 
Again, this wasn't non stop use.
 
This was utilizing on again off again power saving efforts.
 
My 12 batteries can be relied upon for only 7-10 hours of work for roughly 2,200 frames with no chimping and turning off the camera as often as possible.
 
Oh, BTW, it takes a long time to recharge 12 batteries!
 
My results yesterday were very consistent with my original post...
 
So there 'ya go.
 
IMHO: I don't believe someone working extended assignments in the field with limited time/availability to constantly recharge batteries should switch from a DSLR to a mirrorless camera.
 
This system is simply not up to the task of 12-15 hour days in the field.
 
Don't shoot the messenger.

Pete,
 
Concerning the high consumption of the XT-2, I can tell you my experience since I bought a Patona charger indicating the percentage of battery charge. I am using the grip with two additional batteries and after one  hours of shooting, the first battery shows almost empty, then another one shows the same one hour later and so on. In fact, as I put these batteries in the charger, it shows that they are still charged to 60%, sometimes more.
 
I conclude that the battery level indicated by the XT-2 is completely wrong. What I didn't test so far is the time until the XT-2 shutdown itself by insuffisent electricity power. I don't know if it is only the display which is wrong or if the XT-2 assumes their is no power at all.
 
I like this new charger as I can quickly verify the level of charge outside of the XT-2 before putting them in my bag.
 
Regards,
 
David

No, I'm not a troll.
 
LOL.
 
As I stated earlier, I might have "messed up", by battery mismanagement and wrong expectations.
 
I use original Fuji batteries and chargers.
 
I was pretty sure I addressed that.
 
As stated earlier, and echoed by others, is that mirrorless cameras and batteries have to be managed different.
 
Don't expect DSLR performance and management methods to be the same in all cameras.  
 
Specifically, the batteries should be freshly charged.
 
Mine, as I admitted earlier, were charged and rotated at random over several weeks.
 
That will work with Canon DSLR's, but not so it seems with this type of battery.
 
Of significance is that on extended outings where the power is not available, and/or given the time to slowly recharge batteries, can make it difficult to manage batteries.
 
I have frequently been forced to wake up every two hours all night long after shooting until bedtime and having a morning shoot the next day to rotate batteries. Having two grips would help...I only have one. That's being resolved.
 
Now, this  probably isn't an issue for most shooters.
 
It can be for others, especially those who are considering switching from a DSLR to a Fuji for PJ work (to whom this thread was sort of directed towards)
 
The forums are about sharing/learning form others, and the lessons here are:  
 
1. Keep your batteries freshly charged. Storage over long periods will reduce the charge. Rotate batteries in a reliable manner ( I have numbered all my batteries and rotate).
 
2. You may wish to evaluate whether you need to have boost mode on all the time. I haven't noticed a difference.
 
In the end I didn't buy a Canon 5dmk4.
 
I couldn't fathom going without live exposure preview and didn't want the size, expense, and weight especially with a two body system!
 
I actually would retitle this thread, if I could, to "Battery Management For Extended PJ Outings".
 
I was shocked to see this thread highlighted at Fujirumors....
 

 
In the end I admit user error/false expectations.
 

 
I should not have taken a practice that worked with one system and applied it to another.
 
Ie; who gives a rats butt about batteries with a DSLR, they last forever.
 
That doesn't apply to mirrorless.
 
So there you have it.
 
Should one use this camera system to run off to a war zone or disaster area with?
 
That's up to the individual user...only they can decide.  
 
Peter
 
ps: One could easily have viewed my profile and website to see I'm not a troll. This isn't dpreview please be respectful in the forums.

Go to the first page, bottom right, of the new manual 3.00, and there is a link to a smaller six page PDF manual explaining the new features.
 
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2_v30/
 
PDF file also attached here.
x-t2_v30_nfg_omw_en_s_f.pdf

Richdog:
 
Exactly....I couldn't agree more.....the title was born out of frustration and certainly mischaracterizes the true problem (my poor battery management and the differences of DSLR vs. ILMC)...and in fact I would love to change the title of my post to "Proper battery management for long assignments"....but I can't change the title or even delete it. LOL. Yes the rabid fans, I get that. Then the thread showed up showcased on Fuji rumors...LOL. OMG.  
 
Overall the camera is adequate for a PJ tool, AF can be fussy in low light, and batteries must be  managed carefully.
 
Photo quality excellent.
 
I have since bought a second grip and tossed out old batteries. Numbered the batteries and rotated often.
 
There 'ya go.
 
So yea, I invited criticism! Should have titles the thread better....no doubt....so I'll eat the crow feathers.  
 

 
-P

Yup it works great in all view modes. Fantastic addition....!

No, I'm not a troll.
 
LOL.
 
As I stated earlier, I might have "messed up", by battery mismanagement and wrong expectations.
 
I use original Fuji batteries and chargers.
 
I was pretty sure I addressed that.
 
As stated earlier, and echoed by others, is that mirrorless cameras and batteries have to be managed different.
 
Don't expect DSLR performance and management methods to be the same in all cameras.  
 
Specifically, the batteries should be freshly charged.
 
Mine, as I admitted earlier, were charged and rotated at random over several weeks.
 
That will work with Canon DSLR's, but not so it seems with this type of battery.
 
Of significance is that on extended outings where the power is not available, and/or given the time to slowly recharge batteries, can make it difficult to manage batteries.
 
I have frequently been forced to wake up every two hours all night long after shooting until bedtime and having a morning shoot the next day to rotate batteries. Having two grips would help...I only have one. That's being resolved.
 
Now, this  probably isn't an issue for most shooters.
 
It can be for others, especially those who are considering switching from a DSLR to a Fuji for PJ work (to whom this thread was sort of directed towards)
 
The forums are about sharing/learning form others, and the lessons here are:  
 
1. Keep your batteries freshly charged. Storage over long periods will reduce the charge. Rotate batteries in a reliable manner ( I have numbered all my batteries and rotate).
 
2. You may wish to evaluate whether you need to have boost mode on all the time. I haven't noticed a difference.
 
In the end I didn't buy a Canon 5dmk4.
 
I couldn't fathom going without live exposure preview and didn't want the size, expense, and weight especially with a two body system!
 
I actually would retitle this thread, if I could, to "Battery Management For Extended PJ Outings".
 
I was shocked to see this thread highlighted at Fujirumors....
 

 
In the end I admit user error/false expectations.
 

 
I should not have taken a practice that worked with one system and applied it to another.
 
Ie; who gives a rats butt about batteries with a DSLR, they last forever.
 
That doesn't apply to mirrorless.
 
So there you have it.
 
Should one use this camera system to run off to a war zone or disaster area with?
 
That's up to the individual user...only they can decide.  
 
Peter
 
ps: One could easily have viewed my profile and website to see I'm not a troll. This isn't dpreview please be respectful in the forums.

Opposite of my findings with the X-T2. I shot nearly 3000 frames with two X-T2 bodies during a large concert event and went through maybe...5-6 batteries. A lot of that was continuous focus at 8FPS. The X-T2 with the grip did not need a battery change at all while the other needed 3 batteries. This was over a period of 6 hours.
 
I did some reviewing on the LCD but had it turned off. I have two OEM NP-W126s and the rest are third party batteries from Patona and Wasabi.

Very good. It meets all my needs except AF can be fussy in low light. Battery management is less of an issue now as I have learned to manage the batteries better.

Just found this topic as I've had a similar issue. Use only NP-W126S (official Fuui supplied) and on one occasion over a 9 day period my battery went from freshly charged and inserted to stone cold dead, clocking up a total of 32 shots! The camera was subsequently repaired by Fuji under warranty who informed me the power management board had been replaced. Only just got the camera back so too early to say if this has done the trick but my gut feel is there is still something amiss. Given the number of folk reporting very acceptable battery use anything less than 200 shots per charge is sub-standard.
 
I'll repost in a week or so's time once I've run through a couple of battery cycles.

@Pete159
 
I think the problem with the reception of this thread is the sensationalist, definitive thread title you gave it. A title which would suggest not subjective rambling over the age of your many batteries which you say you may not keep fully charged, but a rather more logical approach of taking all things into consideration before making such conclusions.
 
Now there is no doubt that Fuji's batteries are rather anemic/weak, and when combined with the additional power draw of a mirrorless over a DSLR you do get through them comparatively fast. However, you can EASILY, using the battery grip that we all know exists that holds 3x batteries, get through a day of shooting over 1000-1200 shots, especially without review and chimping.
 
My take on this is:
If I were a photojournalist counting on battery life to make my money and feed my family there is no way I would NOT be using a battery grip to ensure my battery flow stays constant. If I were a photojournalist counting on battery life to make my money and feed my family there is no way I would not pay attention to something as important as which batteries I have and to ensure that they were all fully charged and in top condition before I went out shooting a professional gig. This is easy to do overnight Or, buying six new batteries annually. I would not make a sensationalist thread like this without REALLY considering all of the factors and without doing at least some cursory research, as otherwise you are just inviting criticism. Basically, you didn't think it through so suck it up and don't take the replies too personally, Fuji lovers are a bit of a rabidly defensive bunch, also in the Facebook groups.
 
It would also be nice to know what you think of the Fuji quality (disregarding battery life) as a photojournalist camera. Is the AF good enough? Photo quality sufficient? 

Given the lightweight and compact nature of the camera, the power demands placed upon mirrorless cameras with LCD, ever active sensor and EVF and the state of play with battery technology then Fuji are making the best of things. With all the moaning I know that if a solution was viable it would have been adopted. 
 
If you want a bigger battery use the grip. Battery husbandry applies whatever brand or type of camera. Yes DSLRs are better but they are also larger, heavier and have lower power consumption.
 
The OP struggled and asked for advice. Pouring scorn from behind a keyboard seems to be the way of some folks.
 
Peter

No, I'm not a troll.
 
LOL.
 
As I stated earlier, I might have "messed up", by battery mismanagement and wrong expectations.
 
I use original Fuji batteries and chargers.
 
I was pretty sure I addressed that.
 
As stated earlier, and echoed by others, is that mirrorless cameras and batteries have to be managed different.
 
Don't expect DSLR performance and management methods to be the same in all cameras.  
 
Specifically, the batteries should be freshly charged.
 
Mine, as I admitted earlier, were charged and rotated at random over several weeks.
 
That will work with Canon DSLR's, but not so it seems with this type of battery.
 
Of significance is that on extended outings where the power is not available, and/or given the time to slowly recharge batteries, can make it difficult to manage batteries.
 
I have frequently been forced to wake up every two hours all night long after shooting until bedtime and having a morning shoot the next day to rotate batteries. Having two grips would help...I only have one. That's being resolved.
 
Now, this  probably isn't an issue for most shooters.
 
It can be for others, especially those who are considering switching from a DSLR to a Fuji for PJ work (to whom this thread was sort of directed towards)
 
The forums are about sharing/learning form others, and the lessons here are:  
 
1. Keep your batteries freshly charged. Storage over long periods will reduce the charge. Rotate batteries in a reliable manner ( I have numbered all my batteries and rotate).
 
2. You may wish to evaluate whether you need to have boost mode on all the time. I haven't noticed a difference.
 
In the end I didn't buy a Canon 5dmk4.
 
I couldn't fathom going without live exposure preview and didn't want the size, expense, and weight especially with a two body system!
 
I actually would retitle this thread, if I could, to "Battery Management For Extended PJ Outings".
 
I was shocked to see this thread highlighted at Fujirumors....
 

 
In the end I admit user error/false expectations.
 

 
I should not have taken a practice that worked with one system and applied it to another.
 
Ie; who gives a rats butt about batteries with a DSLR, they last forever.
 
That doesn't apply to mirrorless.
 
So there you have it.
 
Should one use this camera system to run off to a war zone or disaster area with?
 
That's up to the individual user...only they can decide.  
 
Peter
 
ps: One could easily have viewed my profile and website to see I'm not a troll. This isn't dpreview please be respectful in the forums.