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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/05/2021 in Posts

  1. He’s wrong about all of it and I seriously doubt he used the camera. I had the X-T3, sold it for the X-T4, and 2 years later I preordered the X-H2s. I have had it since launch and here’s a quick rebuttals to that garbage review. First, the people he spoke about, saying they backed up his claims… Casey from Camera Conspiracies, only tried the pre-release and has since taken one on loan… He loves the thing now. Gerald from Gerald Undone, said the camera’s DR is excellent, Still image capture AF is awesome, and he said thanks to the noise properties he can actually make the video better quality than the A1 (that’s impressive). DPReview, said they wouldn’t rank the camera or comment on most aspects until they got a full retail version of it and that review is happening now. Second, he ignored the stacked sensor and the improved AF speed completely. Then he made assumptions based on his ignorance of the camera and how it functions. He claimed they didn’t think the design through, but his own complaints show he didn’t think it through. I had the X-T4 sitting right beside the new body for about a week… The build quality was very much on par with the X-T4 and yet he praised one while panning the other. So which is it, is the build quality of the X-T4 cheap, or is the X-H2S actually decent build quality. Then of course he tried to equate knowing the X-T4 with knowing this camera and I can tell you they could not be further apart in the way they operate and still be a Fuji body. Many of us have action photos, portraits, BIF, and animal portraits, yet he seems to proclaim it is the worst camera ever. Of course he focused on 1 thing obsessively, that’s the fact that the dials don’t have any push button capabilities. Then he also made a comment that gave away his motivation for the whole review away… Fuji wouldn’t give him a body to review, so he rented or purchased one and panned the whole camera. Oh and as for Muddy images… I set both the X-H2S and the X-T4 to the same settings and swapped the lenses from body to body. The image quality was pretty much identical, so you can ignore that garbage claim too.
    4 points
  2. Fujiron

    Pacific Grove, CA

    Incoming storm at Pacific Grove, CA. X-P1, 14mm with Hoya IR72.
    4 points
  3. Currently photographing with my XE1 and the XF18mmf2 for a personal project. Only in black and white and in 1:1 crop mode A challenge to change my perspective, learn more and see the world through different eyes @xftales
    4 points
  4. This is Flo. Flo is a very young cat. Flo is not proficient at sitting still. I am very lucky to have caught Flo looking at me with a camera in my hand. Fuji X-Pro3 - XF23mm F2 WR Processed using ART Rawconverter (Rawtherapee fork)
    4 points
  5. Percy

    Introduce Yourself

    And here’s an example of a still life (mostly as I test the adding images function).
    4 points
  6. sixtygp

    Fuji Birds

    Brown Pelican XT3 with 100-400
    4 points
  7. Hello GO I thought Ken raised a few valid points and others which were fit for the floor mounted circular filing cabinet. But they were his points as he saw them so good for him. But irrespective of his views and his 4/10 rating, I bought an X-H2S and have to say that it is an exceptional camera. It is so fast, the subject detection system is phenominal and the EVF is in a different league to any of my FujiFilm cameras. I have it side by side with my beloved X-H1, a camera that was hewn from rock, and whilst it doesn't quite have that same 'feel' of indestructability, it is superbly made and tactile wise, a level above the X-H1. What I mean by that is the controls are well damped and responsive, the shutter button is less touch sensitive (ie doesn't fire at the lightest touch), and the control wheels, whilst not clickeable, are precise. The joystick is not as well positioned as the X-H1 but as I have only had the camera for two days, it will improve as my muscle/brain memory kicks in. The extended grip is as good as, if not better than, the X-H1 and though still early days, I found the 100-400mm nicer to hold and use when on the X-H2S with or without either of the TC's. As for the charger, never got one with my X-T4 and yes it is tight of FujiFilm but I am glad that they spent the money on the sensor and the overall package. It shouldn't and didn't put me off but I see where he is coming from. PSAM is not a big deal for me, its on all my Sony's and on mylovely little X-S10 so it came natural to me. The C1-7 modes are just superb and if I had to trade the conventional dials just for this feature then I would...almost, as I still love the manual control nature of my other FujiFilm's. To be able to dial in my favourite settings and recall them at the click of a dial (and lock it should I wish) is fantastic and instant. I have a Delkin Black 150 Gb CFExpress card as well as a SanDisk Extreme SD Card. Never had a CF before, it makes the SD card seem pedestrian and even when on high speed bursts it clears the buffer immediately. I enjoyed Ken's review but I beg to differ with his conclusions and thoughts. As for muddy twixt the X-T4, I am not sure where he got that from but IQ is exactly the same as my X-T4 and X-S10 using all my FujiFilm lenses ......but many more images are 100% in focus and processed 4 x quicker than any other body. It is a cracking camera.
    3 points
  8. It's a bit hard to take what this person says seriously nowadays. I mean, he literally called Einstein a dumbass...
    3 points
  9. seriously? the camera is a piece of junk because it doesn't have a charger in the box? i guess then the only good smartphone is a cheap chinese one for having a charger and all the iphones and galaxys are crap...
    3 points
  10. Fujiron

    Fuji Birds

    Black-headed Grosbeak 1st winter. H-H1, 70-300+1.4TC.
    3 points
  11. Marooned

    Gothenburg, Sweden

    I like shadows.
    3 points
  12. jerryy

    Fuji Flowers

    3 points
  13. jlmphotos

    Pacific Grove, CA

    Love this image in B&W. I've seen similar in color but not so much in B&W. Thanks for sharing.
    3 points
  14. Napier, NZ a few years back. I had to quickly get my camera when I saw these kids walking home late at night. It look timeless but it was 2017. Not the best crop or the sharpest but at least I got the moment. @xftales
    3 points
  15. Fujiron

    Fuji Flowers

    Potato Vine, X-P2, TTArtisans 50mm F1.2@F1.2.
    3 points
  16. Fujifilm X-A1 ● TAMRON SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Macro 1:1 Model 72E ● 90mm ● F/5.6 ● 1/160s ● ISO 200
    3 points
  17. The Crow. Fujifilm XF10, conversion in Silver Efex, my own "Daido Moriyama" setting.
    3 points
  18. cpX

    The Cat Thread

    Fujifilm X-A1 ● Viltrox Lens ● 13mm ● F/1.4 ● 1/90s ● ISO 800. This is Beißer. (Biter)
    3 points
  19. I could care less how a screen does or doesn't articulate the deal breaker for me will be the rumored cost of $2,500 which is a lot for fixed income folks. I really enjoy my X-H1 and was looking forward to the 2 until i heard the price.
    3 points
  20. cpX

    Fuji Birds

    3 points
  21. Hi Urbane, A photo shot at 6246px x 4170 pixels is the same whether or not it is saved with a 72dpi or 300dpi. You can change the dpi without resampling by unclicking the Resample check box and entering the desired dpi. This will have no effect on the file resolution - just the output. Example: For the Fuji 6246px x 4170px file at 72 dots per inch (read pixels per inch) - 6246px / (72 px/inch) = 86.75 inches = 220.25 cm - 4170px / (72 px/inch) =57.52 inches = 147.11 cm If you change the dpi to 300, uncheck the Resample box the image resolution of 6246 x 4170 px will not change, only the size of the output. - 6246px / (300 px/inch) = 20.82 inches = 52.88 cm - 4170px / (300 px/inch) =13.9 inches = 35.31 cm Now, let's say you save the above image at 300dpi and send that image to a printer to print a 12in x 8in print at 300dpi, then the printer will use an internal algorithm to down sample from 20.82in x 13.9in to 12in x 8in. OR You can take control of the down sample method by changing the resolution of the image in Affinity Pro (or whatever software you use) using the dialogue box in your previous post and changing the size of the image to 12in x 8in, changing dpi to 300, clicking the resample box and selecting the resample method / algorithm then saving the image. Often, after resampling, you may find you have to sharpen the image slightly to get the best printed output - especially if you are upsampling. Taking control of the process enables you to do this rather then relying on the printer.
    3 points
  22. FX Admin

    Seasons Greetings

    Dear Forum Members and Readers, I wish you all a Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, Good Rest and a Happy New Year! Enjoy the time with your loved ones, feast and drink (in moderation) and above all: Stay healthy! Greetings from Andreas & the Moderator Team
    3 points
  23. Another vote for the XF18-55mm! It can hold its own for landscape photos. If you are really thinking you need the wide end for landscapes, sure the extra 2mm will “put more in the frame” for those mountains in the distance, but there is more to it than that, you might find that the compression you get from a telephoto lens suits you more and the wide angle lens is better for close up stuff. Another option is to buy the body-only and then get a decent used XF14mm. If you look around the used markets, you could stay in your budget range. This lens gets rave reviews from astrophotographers, and landscape folks. It is a wide prime though, so it will be a little limiting for birds in flight.
    3 points
  24. Dragolorticha

    The Cat Thread

    XT-30, XF18-55
    3 points
  25. merlin

    The Cat Thread

    Artemus
    3 points
  26. MintMark

    The Cat Thread

    My cat Rivet likes playing in his box...
    3 points
  27. ramsker

    The Cat Thread

    Monte - X100S
    3 points
  28. We were driving by and observed a majestic bald eagle perched in a dead tree. I only had the 50-230mm on my X-T2 at the time, Image is cropped for effect.
    2 points
  29. Canuck57

    SD card formatting

    Before you use a new SD card (or any SD card that may have been used/formatted in another device) you should always format it “in camera” (in the camera you want to use it with). This will help ensure that the card’s format/data structure is compatible with your camera. Cheers!
    2 points
  30. Mark Woodbury

    X-H2s

    I'm really struggling on the X-H2S - I'm not a vidoegrapher so I'm not exactly sure what I'll gain from the new camera - other than some significant improvements in autofocus (I'm terrible at this by the way). Gonna wait for the big boy with the larger censor (and hoping its X Trans). As for their positioning in the Market - It appears that, if there will even be such a thing, the X-T? will be a less capable camera based on their event some time back. They are really moving forward with driving the X-H2? to the premier slot in their lineup. I'm also 99% sure I will catch a lot of flack for that statement - but here are some things to consider: 1) Top Tier Nikon, Canon and Sony Releases are getting so expensive that they are cost prohibitive for most shooters. 2) Fuji is trying to lure those disenfranchised shooters away from the big 3 with better features, fantastic build quality and comprehensive lens list. I think the form factor for the X-S10 and the X-H2S are 100% aimed at those shooters. Now before anyone calls me out - I love the way my X-T3 handles, the the X-H1 is a beast. I love the old school Fujifilm design language. So much so that I want the X Pro 3 to add as well. I have not had this much fun shooting photos in almost a decade.
    2 points
  31. If you give the shutter button a half-push the focus box changes to green (when the camera af is on letting you know af has locked on to something) you may be able to use that idea to locate the box and then move it as you need to. The idea is based on the technique called “focus and re-compose”. Essentially as you start to look through the viewfinder, half-push the shutter button, by the time you get the camera to your eye, the af should have the box color in green.
    2 points
  32. A few thoughts on the differences between LR and C1 as we've experienced it. We moved to C1 5 years ago, though we still have LR expertise and updates as well. Whether C1 gives you an 'adjusted file' to start with or not is a matter of configuration. You can start with the pure RAW file (standard or linear response) or with the jpeg settings (film simulations etc.) applied. By the way, in my field (fashion and beauty) I don't know anyone who uses the film simulations (either Fuji, Nikon or whatever brand) as a starting point for raw editing. Most of us use a predefined Style that is applied at import. What LR calls Presets, C1 refers to as Styles. C1 also provides you with the Fuji film simulations to choose from and these are configured in close cooperation with Fujifilm. They're much more similar to the 'official' in-camera film simulations than the LR 'Fuji film simulations', because they don't rely on the generic sliders only. By the way, the digital Fuji in-camera film simulations don't really resemble the analogue film look they're named after. In fact, there are C1 Styles available that have a closer resemblance to the different Fujifilm analogue film looks. So, when you prefer e.g. the Velvia or Astia film look, you might be better off with these specialized Styles. For tethering C1 is indeed the standard. Together with the Live feature I can tether my shooting sessions and have an art director viewing and rating the images in real time. Even when they're located at the other side of the world. Great feature. In terms of color management C1 is vastly superior to LR. The color editor is by far the best I know of. It is much more geared to professional use. For example, the sliders in C1 in general have less reach (less extremes) than LR, but are way more controllable. As for DAM (Digital Asset Management) LR's Catalogue has more options for tagging and searching. The C1 catalogue is a bit more basic, though for many users that's enough. However, most professional photographers that I know, don't use Catalogues, but the C1 Sessions feature. It fits the workflow way better. Unfortunately LR doesn't have that at all. For the best DAM, many professionals use Photo Mechanic as a specialized tool for keeping track of 100k's or even millions of images. In terms of costs, I think C1 is a bit more expensive if you want to stay up-to-date. Esp. if you also need Photoshop. When we moved to the Apple M1 platforms, we switched to Affinity Photo instead of Photoshop. Our two in-house editors prefer that now, though it is harder to find people with expertise on AP externally (though when you know PS, learning AP is a matter of a few days).
    2 points
  33. Heccie Thump

    Bumble Bee

    Still saving for my 80mm macro lens, so I was pottering around in the garden when I came across a bumble bee. Had to shoot it with what I had on me at the time: X-T4, 35mm at F11, ISO 200, 1/250 sec
    2 points
  34. Crabbing In The Fog Alsea Bay Waldport, OR.
    2 points
  35. cpX

    Introduce Yourself

    Hello. My name is Carsten and I currently live in Bielefeld, NRW, Germany. For me, photography is a kind of documentation beyond time. It started with a Fujifilm MX2900 Zoom until I got stranded here with the Fujifilm X-A1. 😜
    2 points
  36. Fujifilm X-A1 ● AMOLED white light ● walimeX pro 35mm F/1.4 AS UMC ● 35mm ● F/2.4 ● 1/2s ● ISO 200
    2 points
  37. Fujiron

    The Cat Thread

    We don't have a cat yet but my wife is lobbying for one so this young Bobcat, that regularly visits our back yard, is the closest I can get right now. X-H1, 100-400.
    2 points
  38. Siuslaw Bridge Florence, OR. X-T1, 15-45PZ.
    2 points
  39. cpX

    Fuji Flowers

    Crocus tommasinianus.
    2 points
  40. I think the difference is more a matter of perception, of what looks acceptable. That's why the 100S has two different settings for the depth of field scale. On 6x9 film I rarely made prints larger than 16"x20" and distant backgrounds looked sharp. With the 100S I can see that the background is not sharp when I look at a file 100% on screen, but it looks perfectly fine in a 17"x22" print. My concern is that I want the files to hold up for larger print sizes, which was never a concern with 6x9 film.
    2 points
  41. Herco

    xpro3 travel lens

    It depends a bit on how long or wide you need the view angle to be and whether you still want to use the OVF or rely on the EVF. The 16-80 is a good lens but not especially great. In terms of image quality I'd prefer the 18-55 and pair it with a 14. That makes a great travel kit with only one filter size. If you don't mind a bit bigger, the 16-55/f2.8 is even slightly better than the 18-55 and it is weather resistant. If 16 is wide enough, you can forfeit on the 14 and get around with one lens. Fuji still has it's 18-135 which is relatively cheap as second-hand since the 16-80 arrived. It's not as good though and slower in aperture. In terms of image quality I'd rank the Fujinon standard zoom lenses as: 1. the 16-55/f2.8* 2. the 18-55/f2.8-4 3. the XC 15-50/f3.5-5.6 4. the 16-80/f4* 5. the 18-135/f3.5-5.6* 6. the XC 15-45/f3.5-5.6 The * marked will block a significant part of the OVF on an X-Pro3. Also bear in mind that the frame in the OVF gets really small above approx. 50mm. All lenses with variable aperture only have their fastest aperture at the widest point and quickly move to a slower aperture. The 18-55 e.g. is f2.8 at 18mm, but already f3.3 at 23mm and f4 at approx. 35mm (if memory serves me well). If you need a really longer solution than 80, the Tamron 18-300 was just introduced, but it's a bit of a big gun on an X-Pro3. Tamron has an excellent 17-70/f2.8 that seems perfect for APS-C, but we'll have to wait and see whether it will come for X-mount. Sigma is rumored to start offering X-mount lenses in 2022 and their recent 18-50/f2.8 is highly acclaimed for Sony E-mount APS-C, so hopefully that would be one of the first.
    2 points
  42. The XF16/f1.4 is one's of Fuji's best X-mount lenses together with the XF90/f2. I absolutely loved the 16/1.4. I wish you a lot of happy shooting and fun with your new kit.
    2 points
  43. I have the nitecore fx1. Really happy with it. Measures the temperature, charge voltage and current. Also gives an estimate of the health of the battery
    2 points
  44. I think the answer to this question depends on the criteria used to measure "success". And also success for who? For Fujifilm? For you? For me? I can't find any sources that breakout sales for Fuji cameras by model, and of course it would be impossible to know what Fujifilm's criteria for success might be, even if we had that information. It has always struck me since becoming aware of X Series cameras that Fuji seems to attach a great deal of value to the design proposition of Electronic Range Finder cameras. It's a pretty distinct form for modern mirrorless cameras and they might value the distinction so much that break-even or even a manageable loss on X100 and X-Pro lines is totally worth it to them. Maybe for you or other X-Pro2 users, the X-Pro3 isn't compelling enough for an upgrade. I get that. The X-Pro2 strikes me as a great camera. In fact I decided to get the X-Pro2 and was saving my money when they introduced the 3. So I am totally into that being a thing. For me, the X-Pro3 is a total success. I have never owned a digital or mirrorless camera before buying the X-Pro3. The details that others dismiss as gimmicks were compelling enough for me to want them. The sub monitor doesn't feel or look like a gimmick to me at all. I like it. People who ask about my camera are always surprised and delighted by that detail. They are fascinated by the fact the LCD folds down and out. I like this too. I don't want to even be tempted to chimp, but it's super nice to have a screen available that isn't smeared with skin oil when I want to double check a result or make a wait-level photo if I'm unable to crouch or kneel. I purchased the FUJINON XF16mmF2.8 R WR as my first lens because I love the wideness. Is it a problem the viewfinder doesn't have framelines for this? It hasn't been for me. Maybe because of the way I compose things? Maybe I don't care? I certainly never once was "disappointed" or found myself wishing for those framelines. I also use adapted Pentax Takumar M42 screw mount lenses on the camera, including a Super Takumar 300mm F4. Does using this long lens make the "rangefinder" useless? Not entirely. You certainly have to trust that what you saw before you brought the camera to your eye will still be the case for the lower right of the frame. But that's where the functionality and flexibility of the ERF is so great: A simple push or pull of the viewfinder mode lever lets me see the electronic view. I can switch back and forth if I want. I can stay electronic if I want. I can have both. And I don't have to be "pure" or do one or the other. I can just do what I want. It's not just looks, or living a rangefinder-pure life that the X-Pro3 brings, but wonderful flexibility. The instrument helps me and facilitates me. This camera makes me want to pick up and shoot. It inspires me and instills me with confidence. X-Pro3 a success? For me it absolutely is. https://youpic.com/photographer/JonWhipple/
    2 points
  45. Fujifilm X-T3 - Fujinon XF 35mm f/1.4 Fujifilm Classic Negative Color Film Sim
    2 points
  46. Mike K

    The Cat Thread

    Beluga X-Pro1 & Fuji 35mm f2
    2 points
  47. Mike K

    The Cat Thread

    Ronaldo X-Pro1 & Fuji 56mm f1.2
    2 points
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