Jump to content

Ultimate compact lens kit


user_01

Recommended Posts

Hi, folks. This is my first post here. I just switched from 5dm2 to fuji's. Get 2 dinosaurs x-pro1 and x100 (as 23mm lens) at a very low price and love 'em so much it's rangefinder style. For x-pro i have fuji 18-55mm and Canon FD 50mm 1,4 manual. I use cameras mainly for street photography and travel. Now i have a very hard descision if i should buy mint fuji 35mm 1.4 for a half price of 56mm or 90mm lenses brand new. I'm afraid that 23mm and 35 would be almost the same thing. What do you think?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Get 2 dinosaurs x-pro1 and x100 (as 23mm lens) at a very low price and love 'em so much it's rangefinder style. For x-pro i have fuji 18-55mm and Canon FD 50mm 1,4 manual. I use cameras mainly for street photography and travel. Now i have a very hard descision if i should buy mint fuji 35mm 1.4 for a half price of 56mm or 90mm lenses brand new.

 

35 is the same as 23 until you need highest possible results and compose carefully. IMO you don't need anything else as an addition to 18-55 and 23/2 for these styles of photography in 18-55 range. If you're OK with canon FD lens you don't need 56 either. If you insist on 35mm focal length you can consider TCL-X100 which is even cheaper. Thus the option left is 90 which is a great lens.

Link to post
Share on other sites

35 is the same as 23 until you need highest possible results and compose carefully. IMO you don't need anything else as an addition to 18-55 and 23/2 for these styles of photography in 18-55 range. If you're OK with canon FD lens you don't need 56 either. If you insist on 35mm focal length you can consider TCL-X100 which is even cheaper. Thus the option left is 90 which is a great lens.

 

Honestly, i don't like zooms from the way how it looks and feels to it's f3,6 at 35mm that annoyed me during shooting live show in a very low light. TCL-x100 costs just 100 bucks more than mint 35 1.4. Hm,hm... just want first native prime for my camera, very hard descision)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Honestly, i don't like zooms from the way how it looks and feels to it's f3,6 at 35mm that annoyed me during shooting live show in a very low light. TCL-x100 costs just 100 bucks more than mint 35 1.4. Hm,hm... just want first native prime for my camera, very hard descision)

 

Nevertheless you won't take too many primes for travelling and you don't have time to swap lenses in street photography. I'd say 35 is unnecessary if you already have 23 and 50. When I need two fast primes for fast photography I take X100S and XF 56 

Link to post
Share on other sites

...  I'm afraid that 23mm and 35 would be almost the same thing. What do you think?

 

I think the are not the same. Not at all.

 

It is hard to understand what you really asking.

Your lens portfolio is a function of your requirements (e.g. concerning focal length), the money you want to spend and sometimes also influenced by GAS.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally, if you are using these for travel I wouldn't buy anything more. You've got a fast wide (X100), a flexible zoom, and a fast portrait lens (albeit manual focus). You would be better served buying a Samyang 12mm f/2.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just my opinion, but if this were my kit, I'd buy the 35.  I have one on my X-T1 and absolutely love it on the street.  If you like to shoot wider on the street with your Canons, then try the 14 or 16 which will bring you to that 24mm length.  I haven't spent much time at all at the 135 mark, so I can't comment on that, but I know a lot of folks love it for portraiture work, not sure how well it would work on the street.

 

I'm struggling with the same thing you are right now as to what my next prime will be.  Right now I'm flopping back and forth between the 16 and 56, but it depends on which way I want to go with my kit as it grows.  I know eventually I will wind up with both though so it's just which comes first.  Like you though, I want a X100 series to fill that 35mm gap I have in my kit.  I'm lusting after a T right now, but if an S came along at the right price I'd snatch it up in a heart beat.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...