Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I discovered that the Wasabi batts get stick in my X-Pro1.  I can get them out using a piece of tape so they are not stuck too firmly.  I decided to sell my Pro1 (not because of this) and ordered a minty used X-T1 today.  Does anyone know if this problem also occurs on the X-T1?  I'm trying to avoid the high price tag of the Fuji OEM batteries so if anyone is using a different aftermarket batt what would you suggest?

 

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest welshkc

It is because the batteries have swollen.  Throw them away before they ruin your camera.  If you set them on a flat surface and push the corners, I bet they will rock.  You can keep buying the cheap batteries, I do, but check them for issues like swelling and ditch them when it happens.

 

Ed

Link to post
Share on other sites

Buy cheap and you always end up buying twice!

 

Far too many moans about Wasabi batteries to even consider buying then, thank goodness they are not widely available in the U.K.

 

Where is the logic of spending loads to buy a top notch camera and then scrimping and buying cheap batteries, doesn't make sense to me!

Edited by Mike G
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've used Wasabi batteries in my X-T1 and X-E2 when without any issues. When I got my X-Pro2 I noticed an occasional freezing of camera (could just have been the issue with the old firmware) and it seems the charge does not last as long. I haven't used them as much as I had bought extra Fujifilm ones now. I used a Wasabi one in my X-Pro2 over the holidays for photos of family opening gifts and did not have any issues with it so it is difficult to say if they were the cause of the freezing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Where is the logic of spending loads to buy a top notch camera and then scrimping and buying cheap batteries, doesn't make sense to me!

For the record; third party does not have to mean cheap or low quality. If Duracell ever decides to bring out Fujifilm compatible batteries, I'll be first in line to order them, based on my experience with them when I used Canon cameras. They were not that much cheaper than the OEM batteries, but held a better charge, and showed far less ageing.

 

Unfortunately Duracell does not offer a NP-W126 substitute. Or at least did not when I last checked. I settled on Hähnel because they also have a good reputation, and have a clear warranty statement.

 

Edit: just Googled, and it seems they do offer NP-W126 batteries now indeed! Whenever my Hähnels get worn out, I know what I will choose.

Edited by johant
Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a similar problem but with my Watson replacement, worked fine in my xt-10 but when I got the xt-2 I used the Watson and had difficulty removing it, I figured it was due to swelling or slightly smaller battery compartment on the xt-2, still using it on the x-t10 with no problems

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Batteries will all, at some point, get damaged by the recharging cycles, also original NP-W126 will ( run a search on line, several reports) albeit possibly later than third parties batteries.

 

My macbook battery swell up too (original part) and nearly destroyed the computer from inside this has nothing to do with parts being original or not. It has to do with the way some batteries respond to aging and repeated loading cycles.

 

Indeed even Fuji batteries are third parties batteries, Fuji doesn’t make them! They buy them under tighter specs than other makers but they are batteries like all others.

 

Duracell is a well known name but there is nothing in that name to suggest they are any better than other makers. They too will get damaged.

 

As soon as you notice bulging discard (dispose in appropriate manner) and replace.

 

 

As for batteries, quality varies greatly, have you read this?

 

http://www.fujirumors.com/tested-third-party-fuji-batteries-inflated-capacity-values-some-batteries-almost-fraud-and-the-winner-is/

Edited by milandro
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I found the reddit topic i refere to :  https://www.reddit.com/r/davinciresolve/comments/1pc3f1e/cant_apply_new_fujifilm_gfx_55_lut/ "Update for y'all, It's just like what @ExpBalSat said, it's because of the backslashes in the names break them. I changed the file name and it works now. "   For me it was the solution. Realy annoying if it doesn’t work for you 😕  
    • Here is the solution to using the Eterna 55 file simulation LUTs in Davinci Resolve.   In general, do not use the FLog2C to film simulation LUTs as they are not supported by Davinci Resolve for two reasons: 1) Davinci Resolve does not support Fuji Gamut Color Space and 2) Davinci Resolve does not support FLog2C gamma.  Instead, use Flog2 which is supported by Davinci Resolve.  Here is an example.  Let's say that you want to use Classic Chrome simulation.  Do the following: Complete your color grade and use a CST to get to Rec 709. Add a node.  Use a CST to convert from Rec 709 to FLog2.  Output Color space is Rec 2020 and Outout Gamut is FLog2. Add a node.  Apply the FLog2 to Classic Chrome LUT Create a combination node from node in steps 2 and 3. Apply a Key to the combination node and adjust the Key Output Gain to get the amount of the combination node that you want applied. So that you do not have to do this over and over again, generate a LUT for the combination node.  Remember to turn off all other nodes before generating the LUT. Hope this helps others. Don  
    • Thanks for the insights. I think it's really hard to make a decision without having the two side by side! 
    • I don’t have the 23 f2 but I have read several times that it is considered a little soft at close distance, compared to the 23 f1.4 lenses. These will also focus at shorter distance from the subject, esp. the new one. So that might make a difference. The new 23 f1.4 LM WR  has better resolution, esp. in regard to the 40Mpix sensors, which you don’t have on the X-T2. What practical difference that makes for the value of the pictures one makes is disputable and subjective.  f1.4 will gather more light but with a smaller DOF, which may be desirable in some situations but not so in others, depends. If you like to shoot close ups, you will probably use higher f numbers to get a bigger DOF. Same for landscapes. If you are a bokeh fan, yes the f1.4 lens are better.  The older 23 f1.4 lens that you are considering is a very good and respected lens. The f1.4 vs f2 aperture per se is perhaps not so important. The 23 f2 is very small, light and practical and a great lens for travel and landscapes. So, go figure. I am afraid I just sent you further down the road to insanity !
    • First post here but long time fuji shorter. I use the XT2 with the 23mm f2 / 35mm 1.4 / 16-80mm f4 I'm considering the 23mm f1.4 r (Non-WR) About me: - I shoot black and white only. - I like macro details to wide open landscapes and everything in-between. - I shoot mostly for art, intrigue and creativity of the image. My question - is the 23mm f1.4 going to offer me any meaningful difference over the f2 for the above scenarios Thanks and sorry for bringing it up again...
×
×
  • Create New...