Therapeuo63

My Godox X1T-F trigger does not work with my new X100f. Works fine with my XT-1 and XT-2 bodies. My x100f will trigger flashes using the Flash Q triggers or my Paul Buff Cybersync transceiver so I don't think its anything with the camera menu settings but a compatibility issue with Godox. I would like to be able to use the Godox trigger on all my cameras as I'm using Godox flashes. Does anyone know what the issue might be and how to resolve it? Thanks

I think the 14 f2.8 is one of Fuji's most underrated lenses, I can't imagine parting with it. I'm using the 14, 23f1..4, 35f2, 56 prime line up and it's just a killer combo. That said I'm not sure there is a better wide angle lens capable of bokeh like the 16 in any APS-C system.

Will not fire flash. Works fine on X-T1 and X-T2. Cybersyncs work on the X100s fine so I suspect a compatibility issue. Does anyone know if this is a firmware issue or a fix? Would be nice to work with on transmitter/flash ecosystem on the different Fuji bodies. Thanks

I have the same issue. One month old camera. X-T2s have an electrical issue and I'm surprised Fuji hasn't found this and fixed it. Some of them simply seize up...it just happens. It's not overheating, grips, faulty SD cards, or batteries...it's just a reliability or quality control issue and once the store's return period expires you have to rely on the warranty repair and invariably Fuji will not be able to duplicate the error. This is my conclusion after spending hours of researching this online this evening. If you are one of the unlucky owners you just have to deal with the gremlins. It's very unfortunate and some of us have this happen on paid shoots when we need these cameras to power up and function properly. With so many people experiencing these freezes they really should address it. I love Fuji and for now will stick with it but I would not recommend these cameras yet for paid professional work. They might get there but still not ready for prime time I'm afraid. The small form factor, excellent user interface and advantages of EVF can't compensate for a dead camera, puzzled photographer and a frustrated client.

My relatively new X-T2 locked up during a paid shoot today. I was doing a shoot for a pilates studio and after finishing some outdoor headshots moved inside to start on some environmental shots. When I went to power the camera back on there was no power, totally locked up. Cycling power didn't help. I ended up removing the battery grip and the battery from the camera body, reinstalling the battery and it powered up for the rest of the session. Camera is about a month old, bought new from B&H, batteries were Fuji OEM batteries designed for the X-T2 with the "S" designation. Memory cards are garden variety SanDisk Extreme 16GB cards. Battery grip was in normal (not boost) mode. I was using the 56mm f1.2 lens and the 18-55 for the interior work. Batteries were fully charged the morning to the shoot. I also noticed the camera was sluggish when trying to review images in the LCD and show clients. Several times I would hit the review button and almost 5-8 seconds went by before the image would appear on the LCD. Sold my my Nikon gear when I bought the X-T2 (still have my X-T1). Maybe I shouldn't have...cant have frozen cameras for paid work. Any ideas? Thanks

My X-T2 arrived today and I began the search for spare batts looking for the NP-126S vs the NP-126 "non S" aka X-T1. I realize the X-T1 batts can be used but I'm having difficulty finding non-Fuji batts specifically for the X-T2. All of the usual suspects such as Wasabi, Watson, Adorama's Green Machine etc for the X-T2 are all labeled NP-126. Am I missing something? Thanks

Happening now at B&H and Adorama. $1399 shipped next day.

B&H and Adorama are selling them with the $200 instant rebate, $1399 shipped next day.

For those in the US B&H and Adorama are now selling X-T2s new with next day shipping for $1399 including some extras. That finally did it for me and I ordered one. Still keeping my X-T1 as a back-up.

I'm facing the same dilemma and am on the fence with sticking with the D750 or going to the X-T2. I've been using the X-T1 and frankly there is simply no comparison with the D750. I seem to get much better results with far less effort from the Nikon. I can work much faster and find no discernible difference in the images coming out of my $350 Nikkor 85mm and the Fuji 56mm...none at all. The D750 will focus in near cave darkness without the focus assist lamp and it nails focus 100% of the time without fail. White balance is much easier and what I see on the monitor is much more consistent in bringing things into LR than than the X-T1. The high ISO is butter smooth and of course the depth of field from the full frame sensor seems like much more than just a single stop of bokeh. The problem is reliability. My D750 died today and had to go in for repair a 2nd time and wasn't even in the recalled batch. Moving into the realm of trying to become a part time professional and dead cameras simply can't happen. Ever. Yeah I know you need a backup. D750 is the lightest and smallest FX DSLR there is, which is the beauty of it. Unfortunately people are having all kinds of issues with the D750 mirror and shutters regardless of camera age or shutter count and in many cases Nikon either can't replicate the fault or the cameras come back with the same issue or worse. Going to a bigger DSLR of course means a massive delta in size and weight of the camera vs Fuji. No news yet on a follow up D760?? At the end of the day I may rent an X-T2 for a week and really give it a workout as opposed to wondering and guessing how I might like it and to really assess the differences vs the older X-T1 which I find very sluggish.

Curious whether Godox speed lights labeled for Fuji can be controlled remotely off camera from Nikon DSLRs provided one is using the Nikon compatible X-1T transmitter? Or are the ecosystems pure and not cross-compatible? Thanks

DR is 100...should it be AUTO?

I've noticed when doing studio portraits that when I pull the images into LR on my Mac they appear about 1 stop underexposed. The images look great on my cameras LCD and look normally exposed. I did a comparison with my Nikon D7100 and what I see on camera matches my Mac perfectly. I guess I could adjust my X-T1 screen brightness down a bit (its set to default) to try and compensate but its still rather annoying. I like to nail the exposure perfectly in camera. Problem doesn't seem as prevalent when shooting in existing light/outdoors. Has anyone noticed this?

Thanks folks...I'll check out the 90mm as well just to compare. I wish Fuji had a 135 f2...maybe that will come down the road.

That website is FujiLove's magazine so I'm not sure what set up they were using with the YN-560 and the Godox. I have 2 SB-800 flashes. I have no problem triggering them optically using the X100's commander mode provided there is line of sight. I've triggered the SB-800s wirelessly using the X100s with Pocket Wizards, FlashQ triggers, Paul C Buff's Cybersync triggers and Nikon sync cables (as in my profile pic here). I have heard of compatibility issues with Yongnuo(YN) triggers and Nikon flashes so would avoid those.

2) I've read that Adobe's Camera RAW leaves much to be desired when it comes to resolving Fuji's RAW files. I'm very open to changing my software tools. I'd like to maintain the maximum possible detail from RAW files, however I perceive that at my skill level a tool like Perfectly Clear or Luminar would really help with the heavy lifting. I believe that ACR has gotten better with converting RAW Fuji files and much of the hubbub was from some time ago. It seems the problems were mostly with foliage in landscapes. Iridient Developer was the gold standard and might still be. It would also be worth checking out FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO 3) I've read that one of the greatest things about the X-series is the film emulation that is built-in. I normally have used Velvia with boosted color saturation and recorded in either RAW or RAW plus JPEG. LR, Perfectly Clear, Luminar and I assume CO, have a wide range of film emulations, styles, filters, etc. So is it generally better to use the various built-in film emulations or to use the options available in software for post-processing? Do the RAW files include the selected film emulation or do those only effect jpeg files? If you use Lightroom you can apply the Fuji film emulations in post processing. I think it is under the Camera Calibration menu. I shoot RAW plus Jpeg when using these so i can preview the result. 4) Batteries. Fuji or generic? Has anyone seen any difference in performance, charge duration, charging time, longevity, etc.? I had Wasabi brand batteries get stuck in my X-Pro 1 from warping. And they were brand new. There is a huge debate on this...some would never even consider off brands while others use off brand exclusively. It's a money issue. 5) What type of equipment do I need to get into portraiture (lighting, backgrounds) using my living room as a studio area? check out www.strobist.com for everything you need to know. Short answer is a couple of light stands, umbrellas, flash units and radio triggers. Seamless paper backgrounds and a background stand.

The beauty of the x100 series cameras is they do not require any special flash to achieve HSS because they contain a leaf shutter. In essence HSS doesn't apply since the camera does not have a flash sync speed. People often buy the x100 cameras solely for this reason...you can use a cheap Amazon Basics flash and sync at high shutter speeds. It's best to shoot in manual mode as opposed to aperture priority to get the best results. Expose for the ambient and then set your flash power accordingly to your taste. There is a limitation of about 1/1000 sec at f2.8 (or maybe f2 I can't recall) as the shutter has a lot of aperture to cover at those wide apertures. Attached pic is with a $30 speed light fired into a $20 umbrella with my x100s at 1/500 sec at f2.8 using the cameras built-in 3 stop ND filter. Any radio controller that will trigger the flash will work. I've used Pocket Wizards, Cybersyncs and most recently the FlashQ triggers which are the size of dice. Here is a detailed explanation https://fujilove.com/flash-fuji-and-leaf-shutters/

The images in the link were likely shot with the Canon 70-200f2.8. Do you think the Fuji 50-140 is capable of these kinds of images (i.e., depth of field in some of the shots)? Examples I see online do not appear to deliver this quality of bokeh. http://www.businessinsider.com/marine-photographer-shot-these-beautiful-portraits-troops-overseas-2017-6

Anything that will drive down the cost of a minty pre-owned X-T2 (non-S) is a good thing. Once they start dropping below $1200 I'm in.

Nice picture. I just ordered my 23mm f1.4 today and eagerly awaiting it's arrival.

Thanks Phil, I think I will try some vertical shots with my x100s and also my 35 f2 and compare. The 35 is rapidly becoming my favorite lens...just something about I can't put my finger on but the images from that thing are razor sharp even wide open.

Trying my new Westcott Apollo 28 Modifier seeing what I could do with a cheap speed light and some positioning. X-T1, 56 1.2. Just playing around having fun.

I'm getting into portraiture and hope to start doing some part time paid work next year. I've gravitated to Fuji from Nikon mostly for size and weight. My current gear: X-T1 X100s 14mm 2.8 (got a steal on it...yes I know the 16 is nirvana and the 14 not so popular ) 18-55 35 f2 56 1.2 I'm on the fence with getting the 16-55 f2.8 for convenience or just adding the 23mm 1.4 and being a prime shooter with most of the water front covered by the 23 for environmental and full length portraits and the 56 for the headshot workhorse. I'm not inspired much by big heavy zooms but that seems like what all the pros use. I have no plans to do weddings, too old for that stress so really don't need the zoom flexibility often required in those settings. My 14 or even 18-55 could serve the wider end of things, large groups etc. I know I could use as the x100s as the surrogate 23mm but like the idea of using a single camera and the renowned images from the 23mm prime. I've invested a lot in lighting gear also. Thoughts?

For those who have moved over from full frame DSLR do you think the X-T2's sensor performance in terms of landscape dynamic range is on par?

Yes, thats it...you get the much faster recycle times and the long battery life on a single charge. And of course it's $80 more.