Don Barar

The only way I can find to make the 240P somewhat acceptable is to be in bright conditions and get the ISO as low as possible. Do not use Flog 2! Minimum ISO is 1250 is too high for 240P. Flog with a minimum ISO of 640 is OK. You even might want to consider Eterna at the lowest ISO possible. It is my impression that FujiFilm laid an egg with the stacked sensor if your goal was to shoot 240P.

HI Serghios, Wow. We are numbers are growing by leaps and bounds. Doubling or tripleing our user base in just under a year. I am only using the RS2/X-H2S (firmware 5.01) for video through RavenEye on my iOS device operating under version 16.x. I have no issue getting the X-H2S to start recording. Though, I may have to push record more than once before the record mode stay latched in. Are you attempting to take photographs? Are you using Android or iOS? Don

You are most welcome. Don

HI Rufo, I have changed procedures. I now use the colors space transform (CST) as my first node. The CST is set up as follows: - Apply the CST effect to the first node. - Color Space is Rec 2020 - Input gamma is FLog - Output color space is Rec 709 - Output gamma is Gamma 2.4 All other nodes to grade the clip proceed the node that contains the color space transform. Hope this helps. Don

You might want to consider the following: 1) Use optimized media. These are ProRes files that can be generated inside FCP, or 2) Use proxies. Incidentally, I too had difficulty editing 4K H.265 All I 4:2:2 10 bit recorded at 360 mbps with FCP. Playback was choppy, as you have pointed out, so proxies or optimized media were required. To improve performance I purchased a MBP16 M1 Max, 32 core GPU, and 64 GB of RAM. I no longer have to take time to generate optimized media. Also, I switched to Davinci Resolve Studio. I think it is a better editing experience than FCP. Hope this helps. Don

Hi Oliver,Thank you for writing.X-H2S firmware 2.1 was the best. It did not require two selections of record to get the camera to record for more than a few moments--one selection was enough. Version 3.00 and 3.01 has broken this and now requires selecting record twice as did firmware version 2.0.Be careful what you wish for on DJI upgrading the firmware so that it allows of the X-H2S on the RS2. In looking at DJI’s compatibility chart of the X-H2S with RS3 it does not do very much except start/stop record. At least with the RS2’s current firmware, from the Ronin App I can also adjust the X-H2S' shutter speed, aperture, an ISO through RavenEye.Don

Hi Rufo: With X-H2S I find I do not have to over expose fLog by more than 1/2 stop. I expect the X-T4 to be similar. I follow this procedure to color grade in Davinci Resolve: First node has FLog only. Insert a node before the node that contains FLog. Here I do my main color grading. You want to do main color grading before the conversion to FLog as the changes you make will be linear. If required, insert another before the node before the color grading node. This node will contain any noise reduction. If you want to sharpen, insert a node after the node that contains FLog. I find a sharpening of 0.47 to more than enough. Any more and the image may begin to break down. This should be enough to get you started. If you want more, watch some of the YouTube contributors. Don

FHD240 is particularly bad on this X-H2S. What is this elongated noise pattern in the highlights at ISOs greater than 1500--impossible to get rid of with temporal noise reduction in Davinci Resolve. Probably not going to happen as it is most likely a function of the stacked sensor. Improvements must be made ISO adjustments.. I don't really care what they are as long as changing ISO does not obscure the histogram. Who at FujiFilm thought this was a good idea? They need to be terminated! How about when you press the ISO button (or any other assignable button), you can adjust the ISO with the front command wheel something like X-T3/T4 without obscuring the histogram? Video autofocus does not require a Kaizen change--small incremental improvement. We have been getting small--very small improvements for years while other companies have been making far greater advancements. What we need is Kaikaku--radical change.. If there are multiple faces in and area, face detect jumps around from face-to-face like a whore conducting her love life. Same thing with subject detect. If there is mildly complicated background FujiFilm continues to finds birds in the bushes that do not exist spoiling the clip. How about a firmware change that once you press record, the subject that was detected stays detected until the subject moves out of frame or you stop recording. FujiFilm needs to get some engineers who see things differently and can design a world class autofocus system. They have the hardware to do it. But does FujiFilm have the will? No more of this insect and drone detect BS and calling it an improvement! Who do they think they are fooling? Just the FR crowd. LOL. While I am on a roll. How about a smoother IBIS. The X-H2S does not represent much change from the X-T4. Plus, all the other things the previous posters suggested.

Here’s my two cents on FujiFilm autofocus using the XF 100-400 for video: - 60 and 120 FPS. Bird detection is available. It works well if the bird is in an uncomplicated background. Uncomplicated background is that the bird is superimposed on water or sky. The more complicated the background the less likely it is to work. On a more complicated background I will use autofocus without animal detect along with back button focus If there is lots of stuff in the way, then it is best to use manual focus. - 240 FPS. No subject detection is available. You can still use autofocus will work in in uncomplicated background. But the moment there is stuff in the way, then you will need to manually focus. Here’s an example. I was attempting to video a mourning dove in tree. I had clear view of the bird--nothing in front of it. Bird detect did not work. However, autofocus without bird detect worked fine. After a while, you will know what situations will work and what will not. I wish I could tell you another system was better. But I have not tried other systems. Best review for the X-H2S is Camera Conspiracies. Casey did not like his X-H2S and sold it. He is now using a GH6. But based on his work, I do not see how his situation has improved. He has to manual/back focus everything with the GH6. He also claims that the X-H2S is noisy in 240P. He is partially correct. At high ISOs (anything over 2500) there is this weird elongated noise pattern that is almost impossible to get rid of. However, if you stay under ISO 2000 (I can get away with it because I live in bright Phoenix, AZ) then I get an acceptable 240P video. GH6 might still be better. But then again, the autofocus is not a good. Pick your poison. Hope this helps. Don

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What you are experiencing is not unusual. Try this: Download Davinci Resolve--a very powerful free NLE. Then, create proxies or optimized media. Optimized media is a ProRes file. Tell Davinci Resolve to use the either proxies or optimized media. Then your files will play back fine for you to edit--I did this on 2016 MBP. To save space, delete the optimized/proxies when you have completed your project. If you do not want to create proxies or optimized media you will need a new computer. The M1s work great. I have a MBP M1 Max and it works great with H.265 All Intra 720 KB/s files created by my X-H2S. No proxies or optimized media required. Hope this helps. Don

Thank you for the suggestion about DP Review. I am able to get by with the work around. A little more patience on my part perhaps and it works similarly with the X-H2s set to USB Tether Auto and have to since returned to this setting. Just a PITA as I have to hit record twice. BTW. Not any real interest on the DJI RS2 User Forum either. Don

Well not so fast. X-H2S firmware 1.03 everything worked fine for my needs. Then FujiFiim updated the firmware to version 2.0. Now, with USB Tether/Auto the record does not stay latched in. However, there is a workaround. Instead of USB Tether/Auto use USB Tether Fixed. When you do this the first attempt at record will not latch. However, a successive attempt will start movie recording. So, if you want to use the X-H2S with the RS2 make sure you do not upgrade to FujiFilm firmware version 2.0 unless you want to use the workaround.I spoke with FujiFilm Technical Support. There is no way to roll back the firmware. This seems to be the case with Sony as well. I believe this to be dumb engineering. If they break something with a firmware update you are screwed until the manufacturer issues a new firmware.So three, big cheers for DJI. At least you can roll back the firmware.Judging the lack on interest in this thread, I must be the only idiot in the world that is attempting to make this work!Don

They needed the front and rear clickable wheels. Had my X-T3 set-up so the front wheel would allow me to click between shutter speed, aperture and ISO all while displaying all the other information including the histogram in the view finder. Now, when you want to change ISO you have click a some button to show the ISO number which removes all other information in the display including the histogram. This is a critical loss! Bad move Fuji! What were you thinking???????? Don

Hello All:For those of you that are interested, I purchased an X-H2S and connected it with my RS2. The only changes from using an X-T3 was that I used the included (with the RS2 Pro) mini HDMI to Full HDMI cable and set Connections on the X-H2S to Select Connection Setting/Selection 3: USB Tether Shooting Auto.With the above I was able to connect the RavenEye to my iPad and see what was in the field of view of the camera. I was also able to start/stop video record and alter aperture, shutter speed and ISO. I also successful used film profiles of Flog and HLG.It appears for these items, that the FujiFilm SDK for the X-T3 is similar to that what might be used for the X-H2S.Don