Jump to content

X-T2 Preview not accurate


qwertz7

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

i have an issue with my X-T2.

The preview image on monitor or EVF is not accurate.

It is most obvious when you take darker images.

After i press the shutter and take the image, the image changes to a slightly less contrasty and saturated image.

So the preview doesn't seem to be accurate.

As i often take dark images in studio this is a big issue for me.

I also tested another X-T2 in a store and had the same issue, tested an X-T1 and the preview was much more accurate.

I made a video to show this:

 

 

anyone can confirm this?

 

cheers, Tom

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully it's the same in German:

 

Menu > SET UP > SCREEN SET-UP > PREVIEW PIC EFFECT (i.e. last entry in page 1 of set-up) > OFF

 

The X-T2 comes with the jpeg picture effect setting turned on so the screen simulates whatever that is set to (Provia, Astia etc). Turn it off and the screen renders properly. (Hopefully this will fix your problem).

 

Fuji has an unnatural obsession for believing that everyone wants to have their pictures rendered as one of their film simulations, even if you are only shooting with the camera set in raw mode. This setting should definitely be off as default from the factory - I also thought there was something wrong with my camera at first, and in true Fuji style the setting is badly described in the manual so it is of little help. Translating what they mean with their menus is difficult at times, although it's better than it was with the first menus in the X-Pro1. Their use then of "Silent" to mean "Off" caused no end of confusion.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@exkeks. Screen brightness is on zero

 

@ALan. Unfortunately that doesn't solve the problem. When i turn preview pic effect off, then its the opposite effect, the image gets more contrasty and more saturated than the preview and its even more obvious. 

Try it out yourself but take a picture of something black or very dark. Otherwise you don't see it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

qwertz7, I have just tried it on my X-T2 which is currently set to 'standard' (Provia). The effect is opposite to what you describe. The shadows are lighter with pic effect off and the whole image becomes less saturated, in fact rather veiled and more noisy. I don't know how you have your camera set up but there is something wrong.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@voodooless: DR ist set to 100

 

@BobJ, you maybe got it wrong, its not about the difference of picture effect on or off (which behaves the same as you describe) but the difference between the picture you see in the preview an the actual pic you take.

 

Anyone tried it out?? You have to take a quite dark scene and set the preview mode to continuous. you will see that the preview doesn't match the actual pic you get,

 

cheers, Tom

Link to post
Share on other sites

Regarding the DR setting, today I noticed something strange as well. I had an outside scene with backlight and a fair amount of contrast, used center weights metering, and then played with various DR settings. Here I noticed that DR200 and DR400 were clearly a bit overexposed compared to DR100 in the EVF. I would have thought that the exposure should not change no matter what DR settings?

Edited by voodooless
Link to post
Share on other sites

@jack, it happens in every mode, i checked all of them. It has nothing to do with the metering, its just that the preview doesn't match.

i also don't think that my camera is broken or that i don't know how to use it. I just think its a bug that Fuji hasn't discovered yet, so wanted anybody to confirm this. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

As nobody is confirming this, I guess you should either look at your settings or how you are using your camera.

 

From what I see there is no difference on the LCD to the camera's review of the shot, and I've been using my X-T2 (and X-T1, and X-pro 1 before that) for my work in all sorts of conditions from moonlit night shots to full sun and see nothing untoward at all once I had the camera's menu settings correct.

 

There's no "bug" that I can see with the camera at all.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully it's the same in German:

 

Menu > SET UP > SCREEN SET-UP > PREVIEW PIC EFFECT (i.e. last entry in page 1 of set-up) > OFF

 

The X-T2 comes with the jpeg picture effect setting turned on so the screen simulates whatever that is set to (Provia, Astia etc). Turn it off and the screen renders properly. (Hopefully this will fix your problem).

 

Fuji has an unnatural obsession for believing that everyone wants to have their pictures rendered as one of their film simulations, even if you are only shooting with the camera set in raw mode. This setting should definitely be off as default from the factory - I also thought there was something wrong with my camera at first, and in true Fuji style the setting is badly described in the manual so it is of little help. Translating what they mean with their menus is difficult at times, although it's better than it was with the first menus in the X-Pro1. Their use then of "Silent" to mean "Off" caused no end of confusion.

When picture effect is turned off the image previewed will be without film simulation settings BUT the resultant final image produced will still have all the film sim settings applied.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

i have an issue with my X-T2.

The preview image on monitor or EVF is not accurate.

It is most obvious when you take darker images.

After i press the shutter and take the image, the image changes to a slightly less contrasty and saturated image.

So the preview doesn't seem to be accurate.

As i often take dark images in studio this is a big issue for me.

I also tested another X-T2 in a store and had the same issue, tested an X-T1 and the preview was much more accurate.

I made a video to show this:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWlzxC6W7Bk

 

anyone can confirm this?

 

cheers, Tom

You may have preview exposure in Manual mode set incorrectly for your studio use. Many times in studio the manually set exposure controls will be set to give a dark image using the available light. Only when flash is applied in studio will the exposure come right. Fujis have a preview exposure in Manual mode settings which will give the correct dark image when this setting is on. When off the camera will gain up and artificially brighten up the image (so you can see what you're pointing at) but will still take the image at the correct settings. Turn on or off as suits you need. Best to assign it to a function button so it's easily accessible.

Link to post
Share on other sites

One more setting to check: is shutter AE set to "off" by any chance? I think it will then do exposure only if you press the shutter fully, meaning it will never give you a proper preview. 

 

What I noticed is that there can be a significant difference in exposure when Shutter AE is on and you half press the shutter compared to the preview without pressing the shutter.

 

Earlier I also commented about the DR. On Saturday I now noticed the exact opposite behaviour: Increasing the DR level decreased the overal exposure.. Something really strange is going on here.

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Alan, i have checked all settings i think and everything is set fine. Also the guy in my local store didn't believe me until i showed it with his out of the box X-T2. As its a subtle difference and only with very dark objects most people don't see it.

 

@Username, no, i got everything right in preview exposure and it happen in available light. Of course in Studio it can't be exact.

 

@voodooless, good tip, but shutter AE is on, i tried both settings

 

i can't believe nobody else can see the difference.

Link to post
Share on other sites

When picture effect is turned off the image previewed will be without film simulation settings BUT the resultant final image produced will still have all the film sim settings applied.

 

Well said. It's as simple as that.

 

What you see in the viewfinder, camera set to RAW only or not, is ALWAYS a "cooked" camera thumbnail.

 

Cooked meaning the camera is going to apply settings to produce the camera thumbnail that you see.

 

Period.

 

It's not a bug, but could be misinterpreted as such.

 

It's more a "perception".

 

Your camera makes a thumbnail jpeg that you see in the viewfinder.

 

Even in RAW.

 

That is NOT the same as RAW +Jpeg...ie; that camera created thumbnail is independent of that jpeg on your card.  

 

You can not "download" that camera thumbnail.

 

If you are a RAW shooter it's irrelevant anyhow, because on import it's going to be a flat native RAF.

 

But the camera, in RAW, is forced to cook your image in some way or form so it can render it in the viewfinder.

 

If you want a Jpeg SOOC then you need to make sure that the settings are such that the camera cooked jpeg will be properly converted.

 

All and all, it's rather counter intuitive.

 

Every FUJI shooter should read one of this series books ...115 expert tips. It explains this phenomenon rather well.

 

https://www.rockynook.com/shop/photography/the-fujifilm-x-pro2/?ref=12/

 

You would think that what you VIEW in the viewfinder will be exactly what the camera thumbnail and SOOC Jpeg would look like, but in truth the way the camera works makes a perfect match difficult.

 

As other posters have said the truth is you need to dial in the settings if you want SOOC jpegs.

 

If you shoot RAF (RAW) this is a totally academic discussion because it's RAW.

 

Once your understand the way your camera creates the viewfinder thumbnail image, which probably wouldn't exactly match the SOOC Jpeg in a side by side either, you can see how you end up with slight variations in rendering.

 

It's not a bug. I have always noticed it. It's just the nature of the beast.

 

Peter

 

www.kma438.com

Link to post
Share on other sites

Or look at it like this:

 

The LCD live-view is version 1.

 

You are watching a little TV set. It's not a picture yet.

 

Once your press the button you get version 2 (cooked and baked, not live, like version 1)

 

Version 2 is camera thumbnail.

 

Version 3 is SOOC Jpeg on your card (which may or may not match Version 2 exactly).

 

Raw is version  3 or 0, depending on interpretation.

Link to post
Share on other sites

and Pete, i agree with all what you say, and at least one does agree that there is a difference as all of the others seem to deny that. 

But the goal should be that the preview matches the final image as good as possible.

And as they achieved that pretty well on the X-T1 i see no reason why they shouldn't on the X-T2.

And as the final image (both in raw and jpg and every picture mode) is always slightly less contrasty and less saturated as the preview, it would be an easy task to make the preview also less saturated and contrasty so they match better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey qwertz7, i've tried myself what you describe, and I can confirm your findings. My X-T1 does'nt do it, but my X-T2 does. What i actually get are more details in dark areas, which i can tune down afterwards if i want to (usually i'm happy about the added details), so it's fine for me. But I can understand your frustration with this behavior.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...