Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I like the odd macro shot, but don't want to spend money on a dedicated macro lens, so I thought about using one of the extension tubes from Fujifilm with my XF 35mm f1.4. However I don't quite understand what is meant by working distance when the tube is attached. I have looked at the diagram Fujifilm has made explaining the working distance for their different lenses with either the MCEX-11 or MCEX-16 extension tubes.

 

Would you be so kind to explain (in layman terms) what is meant by working distance? How far from the fromt element should my subject be and how far away from the front element can it be?

 

Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

at the bottom of the chart you can read: 

 

 

Working Distance: Distance from the top of the lens barrel to the subject

 

Shortest shooting distance: Distance from the image sensor to the subject 

 

So the working distance is the distance between front lens and subject and the shortest shooting distance is the distance between focal plane (where the sensor is) and the subject.

 

Here is the chart with all distances for each lens.

 

http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/accessories/pdf/mcex_01.pdf

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just as an added note, don't bother with Fuji's own extension tubes. There's no glass in an extension tube, and Fuji's AF system is such a simple focus-by-wire arrangement that there's no downside to using a third-party set of extension tubes. The Fuji ones cost about 3-and-a-bit times as much for one tube as a set of two third-party ones costs, and having tested out both the Fuji extension tubes and several third-party versions, I've found no difference in AF speed. The only difference I've noticed is the smallest Fuji tube is 11mm, while the smallest third-party tube is 10mm. That's it. If you buy the two Fuji tubes you're paying basically 6.5x more more for what is actually a fractionally less versatile set.

Edit: While I'm thinking of it, it's wise to not buy any of Fuji's own accessories, other than the teleconvertors for the zooms and the wide/tele convertors for the X100. Everything else contains no glass and no reason to pay Fuji's massively inflated prices.

Edited by aceflibble
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just as an added note, don't bother with Fuji's own extension tubes. There's no glass in an extension tube, and Fuji's AF system is such a simple focus-by-wire arrangement that there's no downside to using a third-party set of extension tubes. The Fuji ones cost about 3-and-a-bit times as much for one tube as a set of two third-party ones costs, and having tested out both the Fuji extension tubes and several third-party versions, I've found no difference in AF speed. The only difference I've noticed is the smallest Fuji tube is 11mm, while the smallest third-party tube is 10mm. That's it. If you buy the two Fuji tubes you're paying basically 6.5x more more for what is actually a fractionally less versatile set.

 

Edit: While I'm thinking of it, it's wise to not buy any of Fuji's own accessories, other than the teleconvertors for the zooms and the wide/tele convertors for the X100. Everything else contains no glass and no reason to pay Fuji's massively inflated prices.

hello aceflibble,

would you kindly point me to some third party macro extension tube for fuji x series you successfully did try?

I saw this: http://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B014EV3Q4W/ but I scared due to awful user review!

thanks Sandro

Link to post
Share on other sites

The one I've ended up using myself is called Viltrox—nope, I've never heard of them before, either—and I picked them up after a fellow local X-shooter lent me his set. They're on Amazon, just search for Viltrox on whichever version of Amazon is relevant for your country. Two others I can recall were called Fotga, who make several Fuji accessories and theirs worked fine, and a set I can't remember the brand name of but their metal parts had funky red anodising, so they should be easy to spot.

I've tried five third-party sets in all and not noticed a problem with any of them, but for the life of me I can't remember the names of the other two. AF worked fine, exposure metering worked fine, all feel equally secure. The Fuji ones have  slightly nicer paint finish to them, obviously, but that's all that the premium price gives you.

 

I guess I should add, in the interest of fairness, that this doesn't just go for Fuji. Extension tubes are one of the easiest and cheapest accessories to make, for any mount, so there's no point buying official Canon/Nikon/Sony/etc ones, either.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The one I've ended up using myself is called Viltrox—nope, I've never heard of them before, either—and I picked them up after a fellow local X-shooter lent me his set. They're on Amazon, just search for Viltrox on whichever version of Amazon is relevant for your country. Two others I can recall were called Fotga, who make several Fuji accessories and theirs worked fine, and a set I can't remember the brand name of but their metal parts had funky red anodising, so they should be easy to spot.

I've tried five third-party sets in all and not noticed a problem with any of them, but for the life of me I can't remember the names of the other two. AF worked fine, exposure metering worked fine, all feel equally secure. The Fuji ones have  slightly nicer paint finish to them, obviously, but that's all that the premium price gives you.

 

I guess I should add, in the interest of fairness, that this doesn't just go for Fuji. Extension tubes are one of the easiest and cheapest accessories to make, for any mount, so there's no point buying official Canon/Nikon/Sony/etc ones, either.

Thanks a lot for your useful information! I'll give it a try

Edited by sandroamt
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

yesterday Friday 9/6/17 took delivery of extension tubes 10 and 16mm long Trade marking DG they fitted on to the XT-2 and the 50-140 Zoom easily. With the setup supported by the lens mount all worked well, there was some slackness between the body and the tubes.  For the hell of it I fitted the 2x Fuji converter directly to the body then both extension tubes set the camera on auto focus and auto exposure basic settings and the Zoom at Max, in effect a 280mm lens with 10+16mm extension tubes. The purpose of this quick test was to see how usable the setup was, I am pleased.  Not much of a financial risk at $10 for both tubes.

 

In my experience there is no point in putting a link to where I got the Tubes from as the price and availability on Chines web sites varies so much on a daily basis. I have used Aliexpress a lot which is Hongkong based. If you are new to shopping on-line always look at the price and shipping costs(if any) my tubes were $10 free shipping the same tubes are listed at very different prices. {Needless to say the normal security arrangements need to be taken}.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've got some cheap Chinese tubes, for about £12. They work great and are stackable. Full electronics so the auto focus works. With them both on the focus point is often inside the lens hood on shorter lenses. This gives light issues but you can just use the thin one.

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371947783335

 

 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got the 11mm tube. I don't really have an interest in macro but I'll use it if I need to. For people that do have a real interest in macro work a real macro lens would be about a thousand times better. It's sharper, and easier to focus with then an extension tube. Stacking extension tubes only further deteriorates the image quality. But, an extension tube is an excellent el cheapo solution to dabble with macro. :-)

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

If you add extension tube to the lens the AF might work only on the "working distance" (the distance between lens front element and object). Accordingly to the chart (https://www.fujifilm.eu/fileadmin/countries/europe/pressimages/DSC/Nov2014/MCEX-table.png) working distance for MCEX-11 and 18-55mm is for wide end - 11mm and for long end - 91mm, but I'd say forget about AF and use manual mode. Just slightly moving your camera back and forth check the focus picking.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
    • How does one make sure that Fuji's image correction is turned on to correct barrel and pin-cushion distortion on a GFX 100 or GFX100S when using the GF20-35? Is it only applied to the jpegs and not to the raw files? (I was surprised to discover the barrel distortion on the GF 35-70mm lens.) I normally shoot in raw with jpeg back-up and use the raw files, which I convert either in Affinity Photo 2 when editing with that program or in Raw File Converter Ex 3.0 by Silkypix if I wish to process the image in Photoshop CS6. (Adobe DNG is also a possibility.) Thank you for the help. Trevor
    • Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

×
×
  • Create New...