Jump to content

X-Pro2 and Radio Triggers


Recommended Posts

My studio work involves simple lighting setups—usually no more than two lights. For a couple of years I've been using Yongnuo RF-603C triggers (one on the camera, and the other on the Einstein). I usually use a Canon DSLR in the studio. This setup has worked fine.

 

I'd like to try transitioning to the X-Pro2 in the studio, but my first efforts ran into a major snag: the X-Pro2 hotshoe isn't sending a signal to the trigger. (Camera set to sync speed, and I ran through all the flash options in the Menu, etc.)

 

This appears to be a communications issue with the Yongnuo, because if I attached a speedlight to the X-Pro2, the speedlight will fire. (Likewise, if I run a PC cable from the socket on the X-Pro2 to the strobe it will fire. If I run a PC cable from the camera socket to the Yongnuo, tripping the shutter doesn't signal the Yongnuo.)

 

I'm wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue. Alternatively, I'd be interested in knowing what radio triggers are being used successfully with the X-Pro2.

 

Thanks!

Edited by James Conley
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks much for the replies. I'll look into the Cactus.

 

My concern is that there may be an issue with the hotshoe. I know the triggers I have work on the Canon. They just don't work on the X-Pro2. Which leads to the question "why." Could be that the power from the X-Pro2 hotshoe is less than what the Yongnuo needs, or it could be the post arrangement, or it could be . . . . etc. I hate to buy new triggers without knowing, but it's looking like that's what I'll have to do to narrow down the cause.

 

--J

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Cactus trigger/receiver works great and Cactus speed lights have built-in receivers.

Are you using the V6? Seems to be a bit pricey at $106 on Amazon. [Apparently only $70 at B&H] The PocketWizard Plus X two pack is $170. 

Edited by James Conley
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using Yongnuo flashes and triggers.  I don't think I've tried to max the sync speed yet, but I've had no issues with them firing using them from about 1/160 and slower.

 

I am using the NIKON versions of the 603 triggers as well as sometimes their controller that adjusts the power/zoom of the flashes.

 

So I wonder if it's some issue between the Canon version or if your hotshoe is just defective???

Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting. I was quite worried it was a hotshoe issue, but I've racked up about 900 studio exposures with two different strobes and two different Radiopopper receivers without a single misfire. My best guess is that the power output on the hotshoe is not enough for the Yongnuo, because they work fine with a Canon body. 

 

I don't know the difference between the Canon and Nikon versions of the Yongnuo. Since they're just tripping the strobe and not doing any TTL work, I'd assume they're only getting a signal from the middle, largest contact on the hotshoe. But it's possible that the pin pattern on the 603C is just something the Fuji doesn't like.

 

I usually have about a 1-2% misfire rate with the Yongnuos on the Canon. None at all so far with the Radiopoppers. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I prefer to use the Godox X1T N(ikon) version for my Godox Witstro flashes. This has never failed me at 1/250 and below.

Yongnuo YN560-TX also works fine with the Youngnuo 560 IV speedlights

 

So, no problems with these triggers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I can recommend this one from Mathorn brand: https://mathorn.com/en/tethering-cables/tethering-5m-2/mtc-531/ It works nice with my GFX50s - see the video  
    • Probably this: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/gfx100s/menu_shooting/image_quality_setting/#clarity
    • so if i'm shooting uncompressed 16-bit RAW files it takes a significant amount of time to write to card. Got the high end UHS II cards, and this does not happen with burst shooting, only single frame shots. what setting am i missing that causes this to happen?
    • The Tentacle Sync Timecode tool is the one I tried. I couldn't get it to work. But that is probably my fault, not the software. I seemed to get a file, but I couldn't turn it into anything meaningful. 
    • I am glad to read you are able to get this up and running. Pretty much as long as you connect the camera and turn it on and wait a few moments for the computer to register the connection, you can then use Image Capture (which actually is a very decent program with a lot of options for transferring images from cameras to the computer) or Lightroom or other programs to move the images to your library. There are some drawbacks; connecting to the computer while it is in sleep mode will waste your time, the connection will not get recognized— you will have to unplug the camera, wake the computer and start over. Trying to connect while the screen saver is running may work, it may not, often not. If the computer goes into screen saver mode while the camera is connected and sitting idle, it usually stays connected when coming back out of screen saver, but if the computer mputer goes into sleep mode, the connection gets dropped and you have to unplug it and start over. I suggested having the camera turned off while connecting, this is to lower the possibility of static electricity discharges frying either the camera or the computer or both. A lot of times you can connect while the camera is turned on, but not always, sometimes you have to unplug, turn it off, reconnect and turn it back on. A lot of this comes from Apple’s approaches towards keeping USB devices from hijacking your computer, some is just hubris and some is from the vagaries of chance. p.s. Your laptop should be able to connect to the camera.
×
×
  • Create New...