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jonathan7007

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    Seattle area, Washington State

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  1. Doug and Arjun, Thank you for your responses. Fuji (Edison, New Jersey, USA) told me about the ISO restriction. If you set the Dynamic Range for 400% it does not tell you WHY you cannot lower the ISO. The two mentions of the DR setting in the written XH-1 manual (pages 101 and I think 131) do *not* call this out either. Fuji told me during my call it is not documented. I have made a note to see what ND filters I'll buy (have some for my stills work on Fuji and Canon.) ...'cuz obviously I'll need them! I should have returned before this to pass on what I learned- my apologies to the community. Jonathan
  2. What is set incorrectly? I have an XH-1 and will be experimenting with/learning video in the coming months. I cannot force the ISO to adjust below 800 in any of the video settings. I hope someone can spot what I am setting incorrectly. We are told that ISO 800 is the lowest the body will use for F-Log. I am *not* trying F-Log. I have confirmed that I see Eterna, Classic Chrome, whatever, in the video menu pages. The separate menu line that controls F-Log is set to "F-Log OFF". The Fuji "manual" avoids describing non-auto operation in Video and customization in the Video section. I watched Maarten Heilbron's excellent XH-1 video setup YouTube material. He clearly demonstrates adjusting the video ISO below 800 in the video: I can only rotate the value at the ISO dial to 800 or above. I tried some video moments yesterday and the image on the LCD *looked* like F-Log: too bright and super-flat. Maybe my body is stuck in F-Log when switched to video through some other combination of settings. I have, however, looked for some other indication this is the case. It seems that taking the positive step to CHOOSE a different shooting profile *should* turn off F-Log even if inadvertently so chosen.
  3. Going on two weeks - any word from Fuji service? I have those three primes, but not those zooms.
  4. ...the worst! I am so sorry you have lost the use of the camera with no "fix" or explanation. I shoot tethered a lot with Canons and wish that all the connection possibilities worked better with Fujis. I have several kinds of X body but not the XT-1 which is the only body (I read here) that will tether. I wonder if my XP2 will ever allow this? I had not planned to buy an XT2 unless I wanted the Fujis to take over more of the pro burden. Tethering a factor. What "connects" (sorry) these issues, perhaps, is that Fuji will have to commit to hiring (or outsourcing) more software programming effort. Maybe a hard sell to upper management? So I'd better write someone senior and express a strong "vote" for tethering. Are they losing any sales over this? It's so hard to prove that.
  5. Is there any serious photographer's camera that has embraced good WiFi connectivity? If it slowed sales they'd consider it. For example, few cameras offer USB3. My guess this is maybe $5 in license cost, so, too much.
  6. Very helpful, thank you. So at an event where I have to react quickly I would 1. If possible pick one ISO (depends on how widely the ambient light will vary) 2. Set a minimum (*truly, gotta-keep* minimum) shutter speed on the SS dial. 3. Set Manual focus, Manual aperture, "Preview DOF" chosen and operating, 4. Select back-button-focus set to use AF-L in the menu: "focus-while-pressing" (closest to my Canons' operation). 5. Carry batteries. If I see that the particular scene in front of me at any moment is a tone or situation which requires exposure compensation use my thumb to move the wheel on the top right of the camera body. 1. Way darker than settings call for -- dial in + exposure 2. Way brighter than original parameters -- dial in - EC with my thumb This is what I have to try next. Then work out how the x100T or XE-2 bodies I own might need different settings to support the XPro-1. The shooting style or creative approach should drive the set-up. Since getting the XPro-1 as a worthwhile holding place for what I eventually will use an XPro-2 to accomplish, I am enjoying the XP1 a lot and am not missing the XPro-2 during its teething stage. There's more work to be accomplished by "updating" like the wireless issues. I have an Instax printer, too, for the x100T. So the XPro-2 has to have that capability working well, too. I can wait!
  7. Adam, In post#35 you mention "OVF shutter lag." I use my XP1 with the OVF only (so far) and I'd love to know to what kind of lag you refer. I enjoy the -1 articles. The ISO-less nuances are important, and they do affect minute to minute shooting choices. I wish Fuji's Auto-ISO lower limit on shutter speed would be absolute, immutable. Perhaps the way to deal with the squishy request is to leave ISO on a lower fixed setting and shutter speed set where my lower limit should be for the situation at hand. Jonathan
  8. I still do 99% of my interior work when at a vacation rental property on full frame with Canon tilt and shift (17 or 24, usually tethered) but I always look to see if there is a new way to do this on the Fuji body. I want my images to be different so try to make images that show the room from normal adult 6 foot eye height. This approach creates a visual language (or dialect) of traditional architectural photography. I *have* done some TS captures hand held... I wish they still produced a 35mm instead of 45mm. (I had the 35mm FD version years ago but those go for $1000 now!) Real estate agents are so price conscious and in a rush so I want to come up with a faster method that doesn't give up all the TS benefit. Everyone here expects all windows to look "natural" which means bracketing, no matter which software solution you choose for post-processing the final blended result. So a tripod is a must where window are present-well, almost always. Adam, do you approach this differently? With enough flash power and the right ceiling and room configuration you could do this in one shot, but that is impossible to know without a scout. I sometimes take inside one Einstein and a Vagabond battery on a stand, brightest 8" reflector. Paul Buff transmitter/transceiver connection. So a simpler shift adapter for an older full frame lens (big enough circle) that allows aperture control. Is that only true of the Nikon mount engineering? How about Voightlander 15 for Nikon? Reading the above responses it appears that there was a change in Nikon engineering a while ago, and that I must stay with an older Nikon mount. Which configurations stop down manually? Adapter will have to allow rotation to shoot vertically. There are several folding stools to look at. I have a little $11 one foot version-terrific small folded size, and I just keep it in the truck. I noticed someone came up with a two-step example for $45! http://www.amazon.com/Range-Kleen-SS2-Double-Stool/dp/B007EEG7M0?ie=UTF8&keywords=folding%20stepstool&qid=1465492768&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6 I found a used aluminum Gitzo 509 tele-studex that is very tall, very heavy. I love it. No weight savings there! But for real estate maybe the Manfrotto I have will work, equivalent to the current 055X. Hand hold where possible. Could be that all this work to move the capture to a Fuji body isn't worth the hassle if one already has the full-frame tools. Just simplify the process with a different configuration of the "kit" and go with that, because the biggest hurdle really is the few wide-enough optics for the APS-C sensors. Hmm, might try that shifting Laowa if I can adapt it and the adapter doesn't constrict the image/vignette as soon as there is any shift.
  9. What does Fuji say? Always back-focus, never front?
  10. We might set up a clearinghouse post/thread here to trade them. And if one of us can come up with an easy test of diopter experience measurement, that would help. For example, people with what they believe to be well-matched diopter lenses might try looking at 12-point type through that diopter lens - off camera - and report sharpness at 8". (I made up that number.) Then we'd have an off-campus metric. Yes, I know it wouldn't be perfect and would not account for astigmatism. I'm hunting for a good XPro1 so I may need something!
  11. My x100t always fired my Einsteins with the Paul Buff CSRB (CSRB?) trigger and related rivers. Never tried the cyber commander unit. Sorry I sent back my XPro-2 so can't try it on that body.
  12. OK, then the next items to jump to the front of the lens "roadmap" have to be 11mm and 16mm tilt and shift optics to replace the Canon equivalents (17 and 24). I do use the 45 sometimes, so throw in a 23 TS, too. (Canon should have made that a 35.) Looks like I lug big iron for a while at least to those shoots. I, too, love these rugby portraits. Great lighting. Wish more clients asked for this. No "on-off" errors during the sessions? I returned mine (bummed) and am waiting to see what Fuji figures out. Or what the % error rate is in real shooting.
  13. Time to test CaptureOne v9... I bought a paperback book about this software just released by publisher RockyNook (author: Sacscha Erni). I had hoped to be using the software with XPro2 files but I sent that camera back to wait out the glitch-fixes and few of these companies work on the XPro-2 files yet. However, threads like this make me eager to do some side-by-side comparisons of my own with my XE2 and X100T images. I will trial v9, but fully expect I'll buy it. Yes, I know it's not the reasonably good digital asset manager Lightroom represents, but I'll figure out a workflow that makes sense. I have 140,000 files in LR already, so I'll have to use both. I am on Windows. An Irish photographer and blogger, Thomas Fitzgerald, writes a lot about X-Trans post-processing in CaptureOne and shares a lot of good info. Here's one post I bookmarked (and there are follow-ups): http://blog.thomasfitzgeraldphotography.com/blog/2015/2/a-look-at-using-capture-one-pro-for-x-trans-files I have PhotoNinja and will look at their results, too.
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