Edp

The xf18mm f/1.4 R LM WR is easily one of if not THE sharpest lens in Fuji’s line up. It’s outatanding and optically superior to the 16mm.

The coatings are typically extremely durable, and I would be surprised if you were able to damage/strip it with a zeiss cleaning wipe. The variation in appearance may be from any number of things such as dried surfactant of some kind. I’d look at using a q-tip or pec pad with eclipse.

I made the entire switch from a canon 5DmkIII to the X-T5, and sold all my gear except my 17mm tilt & shift, which I use with a fringer adapter. Zero regrets and the move has brought back the joy of photography. you can check out images if you want on my gallery. Http://www.palisoc.photo

Same. I stayed up to watch the x-summit a few weeks ago, and immediately pre-ordered the 8mm the second it popped up on Adorama.

I ran into something similar with my x-t5 with the new software app - I came across a “reset network setting” option and that did it. I do t recall where I saw it, but it was at the bottom when I scrolled, maybe on the same menu group as the pairing one.

Fuji has already issued an apology letter that due to demand the supply of 8mm will not be adequate, and they are doing what they can to meet expectations! Seems like there’s a lot more desire for this lens than anticipated.

Given the inverse rule, a stable shot at 1/8 second not even including IBIS, there aren’t many compelling reasons for needing faster than f/4 on this UWA lens. Astro maybe, but nearly every other use case it’s not really there. You aren’t going for subject separation on 8mm, nor “bokeh balls”.

I too have a pre-order set up - I’m excited to compare this to the 9mm laowa I currently have.

I use the fringer pro II with my TS-E 17mm on a X-T5, and it’s great, aperture ring et al. They just released a firmware update that specifically deals with the TS-E lenses and IBIS, and it’s a nice improvement.

There was a recent specific firmware update to fix the issue with failed attempts using the remote app. You need to do the firmware update using an SD card directly and not use the app to push an update.

Make sure the file name is correct, including the extension “.DAT”. The file name itself can’t have any extra characters such as “(1)” or such, which sometimes OS systems like to add. They also have to be in the root of the SD card, do not copy the folder structure - just its contents. Also, are you sure the lends needs updating? Check the firmware version on the lens first.

If you haven't bought into the Adobe ecosystem, and do not need the image management with lightroom (though it is very very good), then I'd suggest sticking with CaptureOne. It does process Fuji RAW better than Lightroom. As a sidenote, there's lightroom cloud (Lightroom CC) and lightroom classic. There's an important distinction if you're going the Adobe path, as Lightroom CC does not take to plug-ins as well as Classic. Personally, I use Lightroomclassic, WITH DxO Pure Raw3 and it's plug-in. Imho, PureRaw3 is exceptional, and does an incredible job processing Fuji RAW files, far far better than Lightroom alone could. As an alternate you haven't mentioned, Dx)'s PhotoLab 6 with Deep Prime XD is possibly even better than CaptureOne, but then again, this is a very subjective topic. The benefit of Photolab is that you get really good file management tools, with the power of PureRaw3, all in one app. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the three I mentioned. Examples of what I get with it can be seen in my gallery here... http://www.palisoc.photo

I suspect it would not be worth it repairing when compared to the price of a new one, but that would be a guess. If it’s a mkI vs a mkII, then it might definitely be worth getting a new one, in context.

I was curious after you asked it - lots to learn, and I hate assumotions 😛

That’s really odd. I can do what you say on the x-t5 (if I’m understanding your post correctly), I can’t imagine why the h-2 doesn’t have that functionality.