Edp

Let’s see how this goes tomorrow…. So far it’s fairly painless.  Fringer aperture ring works, and even though it’s manual focus, focus peaking seems to also highlight contrast edges.  I’ll take images tomorrow weather permitting and see what 40mp gives me with this setup.
 

I have found few things better for processing Fuji raw files than DxO Pure Raw3.    

I was at Sebring this last weekend, and took the opportunity to put the x-t5 and the viltrox 75mm f/1.2 (both with current firmware) through its paces.   I’m happy to report that the AF system was easily up to the task.   
 
The shots I’ve managed to finish processing are here…
Sebring 2023
I had also rented a xf150-600 from lensrental.com to see if I would like it.  It unfortunately too much lens, and offered few chances for being used.  The 75mm focal length was near perfect.  I did get to also use my XF 18mm f1.4 r lm wr which is a stellar lens as well.   

Go for X-T5, it has everything you need, IBIS, small body, AI focusing and 40MP, with all the available film simulations.
I was thinking about moving to FF or Medium Format (from X-T3), but I am happily staying with my X-T5 for foreseeable future.

I made the entire switch from a canon 5DmkIII to the X-T5, and sold all my gear except my 17mm tilt & shift, which I use with a fringer adapter.   Zero regrets and the move has brought back the joy of photography.   
 
you can check out images if you want on my gallery.   
 
Http://www.palisoc.photo

I've had a Fujifilm x-t20 for six months as a backup camera to a Canon 90D that I've used for two years. The Fuji system, film simulations, recipes, the X-Trans sensor, and all the knobs have all captured my heart.
To cut to the chase, I'm thinking of switching entirely to Fuji. One body that can perform the same tasks as my 90D and X-T20 is my ultimate desire. Selling both bodies while maintaining my 23mm f/2.0 lens would allow me to purchase an X-T4/X-T5. According to what I've seen, they both offer everything I need: a high-speed burst, fantastic video (with IBIS), and a large megapixel count (particularly the x-t5). They might potentially be excellent alternatives to the Canon 90D.
Is it a wise decision? I'd love to hear from other photographers and Fuji enthusiasts.
 
Thanks

Yes, this is interesting. I read Fuji also has a patent on a 7 mm rectilinear design. Coming from the industrial R&D world, I understand you more or less always have to have some irons in the fire like this, but I also understand it's expensive.
Then, there is another way a lens helps the bottom line. Some of us choose a product line (such as Fuji) based on how wide the product offering is, without necessarily planning to buy the entire width. There's value in knowing the product line has extremes you can go to in the future. After all, there is a bit of commitment involved. People aren't likely to get camera bodies from many manufacturers just to access particular lenses each manufacturer offers. I know I'm kind of committed to Fuji X for the foreseeable future now.

Given the inverse rule, a stable shot at 1/8 second not even including IBIS, there aren’t many compelling reasons for needing faster than f/4 on this UWA lens.    Astro maybe, but nearly every other use case it’s not really there.  You aren’t going for subject separation on 8mm, nor “bokeh balls”. 

Given the inverse rule, a stable shot at 1/8 second not even including IBIS, there aren’t many compelling reasons for needing faster than f/4 on this UWA lens.    Astro maybe, but nearly every other use case it’s not really there.  You aren’t going for subject separation on 8mm, nor “bokeh balls”. 

Considering that a lot of landscape work is captured at f16 and often combined with focus stacking, … and architecture is very seldom captured with shallow dof, f3.5 does not sound like it will be a serious constraint for a lot of uses. Some perhaps.
Some of those “fast” lens are actually not good for astro because they have too much coma and ca when wide open — they have to be stopped down to get rid of the issues, which is a shame, why buy a f1 or so lens if you cannot use it there?

Given the inverse rule, a stable shot at 1/8 second not even including IBIS, there aren’t many compelling reasons for needing faster than f/4 on this UWA lens.    Astro maybe, but nearly every other use case it’s not really there.  You aren’t going for subject separation on 8mm, nor “bokeh balls”. 

up until a few months ago, I was only using a canon 5D with large EF zooms.   The stuff I have now with the x-t5 is  veritably Lilliputian. I love it.  

Ironically the update that screwed my camera via the app, was the update that was supposed to fix the issue - go figure

If you already have the 50mm and need longer reach, I can’t say enough great things about the viltrox 75mm f1.2.  Inexpensive in general (549USD), and given how extremely sharp it is from corner to corner even at 1.2, it’s a steal.   It’s outstanding.    

I suspect it would not be worth it repairing when compared to the price of a new one, but that would be a guess.   If it’s a mkI vs a mkII, then it might definitely be worth getting a new one, in context.   

Here you go.  You can click on the photo details icon to see the exif. 
 
https://edwardpalisoc.smugmug.com/Motorsports/Sebring-2023/
 

Looking at your photography you don't need another lens to create good photographs.

However, we all like to experiment with lenses and I'd recommend you choose something unusual for your style and just enjoy using it.
The good news here in the UK is that there are several good second hand sources of lenses so the cost of experimentation is not that great (you can always, send back, resell etc for no/very little difference in purchase price).
For example, I am blessed with acquiring and owning a lot of Fuji glass over the years. But I never had the 56mmf1.2 and although I didn't need it I bought one (from eBay this time) just to 'play' with. I like walking around and with only this lens and then finding ways to create interesting compositions.
So, my advice is to do that. Buy something you don't necessarily need but would enhance the pure enjoyment of photography.
Just my two cents.
LouisB
X-T4, XF 56f1.2, f1.2, iso250 1/200 56mm

Maybe this is better....

I owned the 16f1.4 in the absence of a decent 18mm (e.g. 28mm equivalent). As soon as the 18f1.4 came out I traded the 16 in for it. Unless you are desperate for the 24mm equiv fov I can highly recommend the 18f1.4 - quite possibly the best lens in the XF mount line up and one of the lenses on the support list for the X-T5/X-H2?
On the other hand, how often do you care about the corners of a photograph? If you print or display the work, no one will ever notice that a lens is only 99% good enough.
LouisB

After 40 years with mostly Canon, both film and digital, a brief summer romance with Oly and a background with Nikon film, I cannot state how pleased I am with transitioning to Fuji and the X-T5. I thought I would never leave full frame but here I am and with a widening array of versatile primes at my reach I have no constraints and the files are very manageable. Muscle memory from EOS and dial/button placement was a thing in the beginning but now after a couple months it's been reset. Nothing but enjoyment and great images.

“Best” is very subjective, and I’m always wary about answering questions phrased that way; that being said *I* use DxO pure raw3 in conjunction with Lightroom Classic.  With that, I share a linked collection that allows me to access my Lightroom classic catalog with Lightroom Cloud, giving me viewing and editing capability across the internet and all my mobile devices.  

HDR is what some folks are referring to when the DR (dynamic range) setting is changed from 100 to 200 or higher, the shadows are boosted and the highlights are lowered. As long as you stay at DR 100, the files will be regular sized and un-affected. The DR setting is what I believe itchy is asking about.
p.s. Shooting in IR comes up every now and then, maybe your and @Ninon’s collaboration can pull together some info into one place (hope, hope).

Amazing! Love your posts. Just got my xt5 in the mail. Can't wait to take it out. Thanks for all of your informative and interesting posts. Keep them coming. 

It looks like there is roughly a six hour time difference. Barcelona is currently six hours ahead of U.S. right coast time due to daylight savings time, so the iPad may have tried to adjust for the GMT offsets.

@jerryy I looked at the EXIF file, and noticed something that maybe you'd explain - The "INITIAL DATE AND TIME OF CAPTURE" time stamp (I was in Spain, but the camera settings were left on NYC/east coast TZ - lol) is notably different than at the bottom, "FILE TIMESTAMP" that's BEFORE the image capture datestamp.  All I can think of is WTF, did I discover time travel?  I have no idea why they are different, as in before the image date. It was copied to an iPad for backup storage, but that was on accurate local Spain time when I did it, and that TZ is forward of NYC.  Confused.