Zababo

Thanks a lot itchy. Your way with the EF-X8 as trigger, useful on X-E3 as on X-H1, and the SB800 as a slave flash, seems to be the more simple to use. Thanks for your experience with that association on XE3.

Thanks mawz, I forget that possibility of the SB800. It’s certainly the easier way to use it with a Fuji X camera

Thanks mawz. I gonna try it with less worry.

Has anyone tried to connect an X-H1or an X-E3 with a Nikon flash SB800? Is that electronically compatible? Shure TTL is probably not ok but in manuel mode, is it useful? What model of transmitter to use?

Hi Ileo My problem is the voltage, the impedance and things like that, that could damage my camera ...

Thank you Ronaldl. What wireless trigger can I use on an XH1 or XE3? Nothing in Yongnuo for Fuji. The Yongnuo RF-603 II are only for Canon/Nikon or the Yongnuo flashes. PS: I like your lighting.

Has anyone tried to connect an X-E3 with a Nikon flash SB800? Is that electronically compatible? Shure TTL is probably not ok but in Manuel mode, is it useful?

Has anyone tried to connect an X-H1 with a Nikon flash SB800? Is that electronically compatible? Shure TTL is probably not ok but in Manuel mode, is it useful?

For me the manner you set your problem is real but your solution seems strange to me I’ve got an X-E2, an X-T2, now an X-E3 and an X-H1, and the first thing I bought for each of them, except the X-H1, is a thumbrest, so efficient to avoid changing parameters in an inappropriate manner. Imho, it’s largely less expensive than to switch a camera. ... if it’s the only issue.

The only for stills camera is the XPro 3, isn’t it ?

I totally agree with Ben Bishop about this camera. It’s a wonderful one and price/quality is at the top. There no real cons with it for me. But as a first camera, it would engage you a lot to manage it correctly (and I don’t say entirely). But it’s really possible for a newbie who decides to spend some time getting to know it. ;~) and there are some video courses very useful on the net, sometime paying, of a very good level of learning. Have pleasure.

I agree with you, lakelao. 16mm is too large for me while 18mm is a focal lens I feel very well with. Luckely I never use such a wide angle for landscape*, using this 18mm lens only for reportage or street photography. * for landscape, in the field like in a town I prefer a 35mm, sometimes the 27mm, exceptionally a 23mm . What I would like too is a 40mm. There is only one for Fuji, the Kipon IBELUX 40mm f0.85 II, a non AF Lens oriented for portraits (because f 0.85!!) but quite good down to f5.6 (alikgriffin.com). But, it’s price is amazing: near to 1500$ !!

Here Is one: https://www.adorama.com/katfjxnk.html

Q image (win) Q image One(MAC) a very good and versatile soft for printing.

Do you shoot in Jpeg or RAF? I develop my RAF with Capture one , and I have no noise issue until 3200-6400 iso on my prints. And Capture one v20 does an evermore good job on iso noise.

The X-E3 is a reality of today. You can certainly wait to buy directly an X-E4, somewhere in 2020 or 2021, and continue to shoot with your actual camera, but, then, the X-T3 would be an X-T4, and probably at the eve of been upgraded to X-T5 ... and it would be then appropriate to wait the next to come X-E5 with so potential wonderful features .... I like very much my X-E3 which give me so fine files, and which is so light and discreet with the 27mm pancake. If it would be an X-E4, I’ll gonna see then if it will be really useful for me to upgrade or, as I often do, to wait to the X-E5, upgrading only one time on two. But it’s just my way of seeing. ;~)

Image capture, an Apple Tool, in Mac OS from a very long time, so in High Sierra too, do this job perfectly also when the SD card is inserted into the Mac reader. But it only can import your selected images into the folder you chose. A good soft to edit your images, like PhotoMechanic, can import you images with the metadata you want apply in the folder you choice or automatically in a new folder.

For me too, I'd love to have different frame lines.

So do I. 😊

Ji- saidIMHO prime lenses are more flexible than zoom lenses due to wider aperture possibilities on the field. I won't bother with heavier zoom (just my opinion and taste). IMHO, I think exactly the same. The problem with zoom is that they tend to give you a "lead as", moving the focal barrel and not moving your feet ... and with it changing the perspective of your sight. For me, moving my body favorises stronger images ... as long as you're not so customised with focal angles of view of lenses to consider a zoom as a distributor of lenses. So I usually go away with 2 lenses (when it's not with only one, then a 27mm on my XE2): usually a 23 and a 35 or 50mm, sometimes a 18 instead of the 23. And I move as largely as it's necessary to get the image I've in my mind. Yes, sometimes I can't succeed, but it's very rare. In the other way, my images are largely more different and efficient with a prime. And with the times, I've learned that contraints in gear make me more creative. When I had 6 or 8 lenses in my bag, I always was measuring what kind of lens I would use ... and forget to be creative in my OWN way making images I saw everywhere, not inventing them. And series done with one focal lens are more homogenous. A very interesting study I red many times: by Thom Hogan from his Nikon site: http://dslrbodies.com/lenses/lens-articles/choosing-lenses/choosing-a-simple-prime-kit.html

The X-E2 is a major improvement compared to the X-E1, and, in second hand, could be in very good condition and not much more expensive ! The X-E2 is a very fine camera that will make the beginning in photography more easy, encouraging and pleasant. Note: X-E2 and X-E2s are the very very similar with the last firmware update

and a very interesting plus: the mechanic shutter is quite totally silent!

Not really but possibly a tiny improvement in low light shoots.

I did that on July and I’ve not any regret. The XH1 is very well balanced in hand, specially with large lenses as the 90mm, as with any other, even the 27mm pancake. The weight is very acceptable and I find the holding largely better than the XT2. (without a grip) And Ibis is very efficient (it’s the reason I bought the XH1) + it’s very affordable actual discount price

Thanks George_P. My firsts images with this lens show me a marvelous “modelė”, a very fine transition from focus to out focus and a very good but non aggressive sharpness. Even if the focal is a little stretch for what I used to, I think it will soon become to me as a favorite portrait lens.