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Everything posted by Zababo

  1. Bravo . It has solved my issue. Thanks I never thought the clarity job could be so massive
  2. Exactly the same with an SDXC card (170Mbs/s).
  3. I’ve a just bought an X-S 10 and I am surprised by the time the camera is busy between two images in still/single mode. During this time the viewer and the screen are blind with this message “storing”. My X-H1 use about half a second for “processing”. My X-S10 needs one to two seconds for “storing”. It’s absolutely too long. I shoot in raw, with SDHc cards (95Mbs/s) just formatted in the camera. Changing of card, still SDHC, change nothing. Camera firmware is updated and I use the A mode. In burst mode, there is no problem: The screen keep usefull and there is no “storing” time after 6 to 8 raw images in about 2sec. In my mind, the ram buffer should be used in any shooting mode, not only in burst mode. Is it a usual phenomenon or a specific problem with this camera?
  4. It’s the same for me with Capture One 20 (the actual version is 21). You can free download Capture One Express Fuji 21, open your X-S10 raw files with it and then save them in Tiff mode you then could open in Lightroom Classic.
  5. 4x5 and even 5x7 would be very interesting for me to see in the viewfinder the exact composition of the image.
  6. Hi,i am looking for some useful video editing software, i hear about the TunesKit Acemovi and Adobe Premier is good,but i am not sure which one is suitable for me,i just need to do something simple like crop,trim,add text,audio,transition,animation.Can you give me some adivice? Here is a vision of a large selection of video editing softwares https://www.xp-pen.com/forum-1595.html Don’t forget that most of the time you can try them free for a while
  7. Here is the solution: Set Up menu > Screen Set-up > Preview Exp/WB in Manual Mode > OFF Then you can see exactly like a reflex camera !
  8. I've two Elinchrom BX 500 Ri strobes connected to my camera by a wireless EL-Skyport. I used it today for the first time with my X-H1 (inside a room) and it was alright .... except that, using the aperture I needed at Iso 200 with the light provided by my strobes, the speed I was obliged to use, for having sufficient light for a sufficient sight/aiming, was a speed near a normal exposure without the light of my strobes, so a very slow speed (¼ to ⅛). And then, some pictures showed a motion blur. With my Nikon D800, a reflex camera, sight was at full aperture and the shoot at aperture/speed I decided. Is it possible to do so with an hybrid camera like the X-H1?
  9. I’ve discovered Wondershare Filmora 10 on Mac. Easy to learn, very powerful and a very logical interface. Exist for Mac and Win Os For still images, a lot of possibilities to zoom, crop, change light, contrast .... Far above Adobe Premiere Elements and less expensive.
  10. I lived the same evolution and it necessitated a long reflexion to me. My choice is to use a specific photo management tool, created specifically for this job and to choose a photo editor as good as possible for my RAF files. For one year now I use PhotoMechanics and Capture one Pro. PhotoMechanics is powerful and very very fast to show large files of images, JPEG as RAF. Capture one pro is a wonderful editing software, and much more since v20. You can try both of them free for sometime. Good chance for your choice.
  11. Do you think I can use this Elinchrom Skyport transmitter with my X-H1 without any risk for the camera? This would allow me to trigger a BX 500Ri flash
  12. Thanks a lot itchy. Your way with the EF-X8 as trigger, useful on X-E3 as on X-H1, and the SB800 as a slave flash, seems to be the more simple to use. Thanks for your experience with that association on XE3.
  13. Thanks mawz, I forget that possibility of the SB800. It’s certainly the easier way to use it with a Fuji X camera
  14. Thanks mawz. I gonna try it with less worry.
  15. Has anyone tried to connect an X-H1or an X-E3 with a Nikon flash SB800? Is that electronically compatible? Shure TTL is probably not ok but in manuel mode, is it useful? What model of transmitter to use?
  16. Hi Ileo My problem is the voltage, the impedance and things like that, that could damage my camera ...
  17. Thank you Ronaldl. What wireless trigger can I use on an XH1 or XE3? Nothing in Yongnuo for Fuji. The Yongnuo RF-603 II are only for Canon/Nikon or the Yongnuo flashes. PS: I like your lighting.
  18. Has anyone tried to connect an X-E3 with a Nikon flash SB800? Is that electronically compatible? Shure TTL is probably not ok but in Manuel mode, is it useful?
  19. Has anyone tried to connect an X-H1 with a Nikon flash SB800? Is that electronically compatible? Shure TTL is probably not ok but in Manuel mode, is it useful?
  20. For me the manner you set your problem is real but your solution seems strange to me I’ve got an X-E2, an X-T2, now an X-E3 and an X-H1, and the first thing I bought for each of them, except the X-H1, is a thumbrest, so efficient to avoid changing parameters in an inappropriate manner. Imho, it’s largely less expensive than to switch a camera. ... if it’s the only issue.
  21. The only for stills camera is the XPro 3, isn’t it ?
  22. Zababo

    XH-1 in 2020

    I totally agree with Ben Bishop about this camera. It’s a wonderful one and price/quality is at the top. There no real cons with it for me. But as a first camera, it would engage you a lot to manage it correctly (and I don’t say entirely). But it’s really possible for a newbie who decides to spend some time getting to know it. ;~) and there are some video courses very useful on the net, sometime paying, of a very good level of learning. Have pleasure.
  23. Zababo

    28mm lens

    I agree with you, lakelao. 16mm is too large for me while 18mm is a focal lens I feel very well with. Luckely I never use such a wide angle for landscape*, using this 18mm lens only for reportage or street photography. * for landscape, in the field like in a town I prefer a 35mm, sometimes the 27mm, exceptionally a 23mm . What I would like too is a 40mm. There is only one for Fuji, the Kipon IBELUX 40mm f0.85 II, a non AF Lens oriented for portraits (because f 0.85!!) but quite good down to f5.6 (alikgriffin.com). But, it’s price is amazing: near to 1500$ !!
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