CDBC

You can always download their App, and use your smartphone as the trigger. http://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/camera_remote/

From interest, does it take pictures OK?

Try using it in aperture priority, preferably on a tripod ... f8 for landscapes, f2.8 for portraits is a good starting point. Close-ups (e.g. flowers) are a bit more challenging as depth of field is always so limited. Using a smaller aperture, say f16, is probably going to produce the best result although it's dependent on just how much you want to be in sharp focus.

Yeah, I reckon it's the lens cap. It's the same colour as the backside of my lens caps.

I remembered wrongly, once. But I don't quite recall when it was ...

Yeah, if the photographer actually has an understanding of depth of field and hyperfocal distance is probably more useful than a clever camera.

liege?

In perhaps related news, this here Canadian photographer received this email today regarding Fuji Connect / Fujifilm X World.

By accident?

If using the smallest lens aperture still produces an over-exposed image, you can use one or more neutral density filters.

You're entitled to your opinion of course, but the reason the 16 - 55 costs so much is because it's a premium lens. Many photographers, including myself, appreciate both the extra 10 degrees of diagonal view, but also the constant aperture. It's a heavy lens, it's an expensive lens, but it's also a most excellent lens for those who appreciate it's overall quality.

I'll be looking forward to that. This is a lens that I've been lusting after since I first got my X-T2.

I have no idea what's causing that (haven't experienced it with my X-T2) but can't help but wonder if having the ISO cranked to maximum has any relevance. This also suggests you're shooting in very low lighting conditions, and perhaps that is related to the problem also? Just thinking out loud ...

Hmmm, I suspect you may have auto-bracketing turned on, maybe? It's the 'BKT' on the dial that surrounds the ISO knob. If that's the case, then what you're actually seeing isn't a difference in white balance, so much as colour saturation with the 2nd image being 1/3 stop over exposed and the 3rd image 1/3 stop under exposed. Did you mean to take three pictures in rapid succession? Because that's how the auto-bracketing works.

Thanks for that Pete, tell me if I'm missing something but is that new X-T2 Firmware available yet? I expected someone would post a link here if that was the case.

Yeah that is a good shot. May I ask where you're hosting it, I've not tried uploading any of my pictures to this forum now and then, but not sure what the shortest sharpest method would be. Sorry if I'm off topic, here.

Could it make a difference whether the card gets formatted in the computer, or in the camera? I've had it recommended to me always to do this in-camera.

I'm in the habit of using the 'BKT' (automatic bracketing) on my X-T2; it takes three quick shots in succession, the 'normal' exposure then another that's +1/3 stop and another that's -1/3 stop, and I would recommend you try this. Reason being that, in many cases, I think you'll often like the 1/3 stop underexposed image due to the increased colour saturation. Reminds me of the old days, shooting Kodachrome 64 at 80 ISO to make the colours pop.

Probably Velvia will be your best choice; there's a good article here you will probably enjoy.

Makes sense to me, it was much easier to trip the timer in order to avoid camera shake on most cameras - even by means of a lever - than it is on most modern models

Makes a lot of sense, that's the next one on my list; I particularly like the fixed, fast f2.8 maximum aperture.

I would buy the longest, fastest, used lens you can find. But would probably do the same if purchasing one I planned on keeping.

Larry, that's an interesting input. And of course photographers would always have a second body loaded and ready, when shooting at that rate. Noting your location, here's an aside that may amuse: in the late 70's, I was working in a photographic retail store in Edmonton Centre. Very low humidity and lots of nylon carpet in the store, so static shocks were frequent. These shocks killed three brand new Pentax ME's just from being picked up from the display cabinet before we figured out what was going on; on one occasion (you learned to hold a key between your forefingers), just touching the cash register triggered it to ring up a $100,000 sale and open the drawer. But the weirdest thing (and one I'll take some credit for solving) was when a couple of photographers that I knew who were shooting for the Edmonton Journal kept encountering 'lightning strikes' across their negatives. This turned out to be caused by the automatic rewind in their Nikon's zipping the film back into the cassette so fast that it generated static shocks from the plastic film base passing through the 35mm canister's light blocking flocking (could not resist that) so quickly.

Good question, I reckon.

OK, I may be misleading you then; but I'm sure I've read elsewhere on this forum about people having problems doing an upgrade due to trying to use an unnecessary step. Anybody else got some input, here?