Warwick

I sold my 23mm f1.4 - loved the images but found it a bit big/bulky to slip into my pocket. I'm really looking forward to the 23mm f2, especially with the weather resistance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are at a party with the 60mm lens, it would have to be a party in a very big room, or else you would have to be standing right over in the corner with your back against the wall to get anything more than face shots or head-and shoulders at best. I'd take the 23mm f1.4 to a party, or the 16mm f1.4: they would give you low-light capability, plus they would be wide enough to allow you to get a bit of context into your shots. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'd get a wide-angle. Your zoom starts from 18mm so the 16 would be a bit close. Maybe a samyang 12mm would be far enough apart? Unless you like taking close-up pictures of birds or wildlife or far-away things, in which case a telephoto would be more your thing. I'm not a big telephoto user - I like to shoot people and I like to get close and interact with my subjects. Long lenses make me feel like a voyeur. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice pictures - especially the MTB ones. The BMX ones could be great - I especially like the 2 side by side against the blue sky - but they miss the context that tells the story: where they took off from, where they're going to land; whether they're 2ft off of the ground or 20ft... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I have a standalone version of LR6.5 which handles raw files from my XPro2 just fine. It cost me £50 to upgrade from version 5, but I had to get in touch with Adobe to find out about it. I can't see it listed anywhere on their site - they seem to want everyone to pay a subscription, which makes it much more expensive. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looks like it fits the same hood as the 35, which is good Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The 16 1.4 is a wonderful lens. My only issue with it is the size and bulk, which is why I often use the 18 2 instead. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If you're taking photos of football and rugby, a zoom lens will be better than a fisheye. You need to be almost close enough to physically touch your subject for fisheye action shots to look good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Carbon is good because it's light to carry. For stability, material doesn't make anywhere as much difference as the weight you add by hanging your bag on the tripod Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Also, what kind of action sports are you thinking of? Because a manual focus fisheye is pretty damn good for action sports too, if you're able to get close enough to the action... You don't need a fast-focussing body, either! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If your favourite focal lengths are between 35-40, the little 27mm might be right for you. It's small and cheap and people like it. It's a 40mm equivalent. And you can sell it in a few months and buy the new XF23mm F2 WR when it comes out - a small, fast-focussing, weather-resistant 35mm equivalent. A prime lens is more limiting than a zoom, but that's a good thing. A zoom lets you take the best possible picture from wherever you happen to be. A prime makes you realise that where you happen to be may not be the best place to take a picture from. It makes you think more about what you're doing, and move more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think people buying camera gear want to be subjects in experiments in human psychology. They just want good camera kit from a nice, trustworthy seller for a good price. Why alienate even one potential bidder, just to prove some sort of point? And then why throw away the box afterwards? I'd certainly think twice about buying from someone who does that - because if they do that about a cardboard box, what're else might they be capable of when it comes to the camera kit itself? Anyway, when it comes to boxes, human psychology and successful reselling, here's what I've learned: - always keep the box in good condition. When you sell, it says 'This person looks after their kit so much that they even keep the box in pristine condition. Plus you can use the box to send the item by mail. - always sell by auction rather than by fixed price. It makes the buyer feel in control of the price they pay. - always start the bidding really low - like under a pound/dollar even for an expensive camera - and don't set a reserve price. This gives the buyer the chance of getting an incredible bargain, even though in the real world the bidding will go up. As the bidding goes up, they remain emotionally invested, and keep on bidding. - always throw in something extra after the sale, like a filter or something. This reinforce's the buyer's belief that you are a good seller, and gets you good feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have 2 Billinghams, all black with silver buckles. I have a Hadley Digital, which fits my XPro2 with a lens on, 2 spare lenses, tabletop tripod, spare batteries, lenspen and charger. Then I have a Hadley Small for those occasions when I want to carry flashes and more kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly so. I keep my gear up to date by selling older things I don't use so much. It looks so much better in the photos you put on eBay if you include a shot or two of it with the original box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking forward to getting this on my XP2 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've shifted to the smaller lenses since I got my XP2. They just mean you end up taking your camera with you to more places, because it's less bulky and heavy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Myself, taken with the interval timer on my X70, 2 days after breaking my leg Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It does. I've used it. It's great for when you want to be in the picture with others, but you don't want the countdown and say 'cheese' feel of a self-timer. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What are your purposes, for which the X Pro 2 may as well not exist? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or go for a street photography lens: 18mm (28mm equivalent), 23mm (35mm equivalent) or 35mm (50mm equivalent). Henri Cartier-Bresson used just a 50 for decades Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Saying that, the XPro2 and 35mm f2 (plus the forthcoming 23mm and 50mm f2) make a good, compact kit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really like the look and feel of the X Pro 2. I take mine with me to more places than I used to take my X-T1. It feels easier and friendlier, somehow, and it seems to put people at ease. It doesn't scream 'Photographer' like an SLR-alike does. I'm also loving the smaller, lighter lenses. Happy to give up an f-stop for greater pocketability and weather-resistance. I've sold my 16mm 1.4 and 23mm 1.4, brought my 18mm f2 out of retirement and bought a 35mm f2. I'll be buying the new 23mm and 50mm f2 lenses. That will make a kit that suits me just fine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The fisheye has massive limitations - it can make things look weird, especially if there are lots of straight lines involved and you point the lens straight at it. I sold my previous fisheye because I got bored with the bendy-lines effect very quickly, but I've since bought another and I think I'm beginning to work out how to use it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's not as if you can't buy digital cameras with full-frame sensors: Nikon and Canon do pretty good ones, if that's what you want. But a bigger sensor means a bigger camera with bigger, heavier lenses. APS-C sensors are smaller, which means smaller, lighter kit - but they're not so small that quality suffers. That's why I'd rather have a 23mm Fuji lens with a crop factor than a 35mm Nikon lens without one, to answer the original poster. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Some shots with the X Pro 2 and Samyang 8mm. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk