BobJ

I have the mark 2. The zoom seems perfectly smooth to me, but I don't shoot much video. What I can say is that it is a lovely lens. Much better in every way than the 16-80, albeit a smaller zoom range, in every way.

Having had an x-t5 for several years, I can honestly say that I have absolutely never encountered this problem. The only failures I see are when tracking moving subjects and even then not often. So, in my experience, this is definitely NOT typical for the x-t5. Certainly not for static subjects at least.
Nothing to do with sharpness, but did you mean ISO 800? 80 doesn't make much sense with the x-t5. That would be within the extended range where you will get less dynamic range.
Either you are doing something wrong or there is something wrong with your camera or lens. Do you have the release/focus priority for af-s set to focus? If not that might be the problem. Also, it is not a good idea to have the face/eye detection on when there is noone in the shot.

I repeat - there is something wrong. I have the same lens and an x-t5 and do not experience any sharpness problems. It may be that there are problems with a 150-600 lens, I don't  know, but mjoseph67 is using the 16-55. Make sure the af is set to focus priority and that you do not have af with mf set (if you have you could be accidentally moving the focus ring after autofocus). If that doesn't help get your camera and lens checked out.

I repeat - there is something wrong. I have the same lens and an x-t5 and do not experience any sharpness problems. It may be that there are problems with a 150-600 lens, I don't  know, but mjoseph67 is using the 16-55. Make sure the af is set to focus priority and that you do not have af with mf set (if you have you could be accidentally moving the focus ring after autofocus). If that doesn't help get your camera and lens checked out.

In a word, no. It will have no effect on your images at all. However, it might affect the resale value.

If weight and size are the main issues, I would say the new XE-5 is the camera for you. I don't entirely agree with the idea that such a camera is too small for long lenses. The assembly is supported with the left hand (assuming you are right handed) under the lens at the point of balance. 

I find that I can get it right with a little practice. However, you wil get a superior and more reliable result using stitching

I find that I can get it right with a little practice. However, you wil get a superior and more reliable result using stitching

I don't get any of those problems. There is something wrong with your camera

By an adaptor do you mean an extension  tube or a close-up lens for the filter thread? I would say do not use a zoom. The 33mm with an extension tube might be your best bet. 

Good grief! Is this a joke? I really cannot imagine what is wrong. I have had an X-T5 for over a year. I don't have any focus issues and I have made many exhibition prints up to A2 size. I can say this. No, it will not recognise different objects automatically. You have to set the required object. However, you shouldn't really need that function for general shooting anyway. Assign a button to face detect and set the eye detect to auto. I rarely have an out of focus portrait.  Bear in mind that if you are using your zoom at the long end, the depth of field wil, be narrow.
What do you want pixel shift for? Unless you want to make billboard size enlargements you don't need it. Also, it only works with the camera locked down on a tripod and a subject that is absolutely still.
What body wear problems? I have not experienced any. 
The X-T5 is not a video centric camera. I have not heard of any overheating problems though.

Sorry, I didn't finish that comment. I don't, know what is going on but yes, try a different card. Also, always format the card in the camera. I expect you did, but I thought I would mention. There is no point in not using lossless compression by the way.

I recently took some studio portraits using eye detection with auto eye selection. I didn't have one failure. There is either something wrong with the camera or lens, or more likely, an incorrect setting. Check all the relevant settings and test. Are you sure you didn't accidentally move the focus lever to manual? It's easily done. Or you might have left one of the special focus modes (animals etc) selected.

Because the sensor assembly is moved electrmagnetically. When there is no power it is essentially free moving.

Switch the shutter to ES to prevent any possibility of the mechanical shutter going off while cleaning.
Turn on the camera and leave it on
Set IS mode to off.
Clean.

Probably no worries, but don't use those adhesive things on a stick. In my opinion they are a flawed idea.

I don't understand at all why your histogram is not changing with exposure - it does on my cameras. There is something  wrong. The little histogram that you can have in the corner of the viewfinder is of little value - it's too small. If, like on my x-t5, you can have a full histogram with all three colour channels showing, assign a button to it. The resulting histogram is accurate for the jpeg only. The right hand highlight end is fairly accurate for raw, although you may squeeze out another half stop. You cannot recover blown highlights, so make sure the  right hand side is not bunched up against the limit. Also remember, that if there are specular highlights in the picture, such as sun on water or mettalic surfaces the highlight end will show a narrow peak, which in this case, will be OK.  For raw you can pretty much ignore the shadow clipping as the shadows will be recoverable, unless they are really dark. The histogram is of great use when taking landscapes with a tripod. I use it frequently. It tells me when I need a separate exposure or grad filter for the sky. Of course, you wouldn't use it for street!

I have just looked at my X-T2. Yes, the peak highlights are hidden in the T2,  when the first pressure is taken, as opposed to the T5. The viewfinder information is partially cleared in both cameras and appears to be the same to me. I don't know of a way to alter the behavior.

A bubble in the glass will absolutely not affect the image quality in any  way. Whether it will affect the resale value is hard to say. If you are concerned can you not send it back?

I have just looked at my X-T2. Yes, the peak highlights are hidden in the T2,  when the first pressure is taken, as opposed to the T5. The viewfinder information is partially cleared in both cameras and appears to be the same to me. I don't know of a way to alter the behavior.

I have just looked at my X-T2. Yes, the peak highlights are hidden in the T2,  when the first pressure is taken, as opposed to the T5. The viewfinder information is partially cleared in both cameras and appears to be the same to me. I don't know of a way to alter the behavior.

I have tried both. Stilck with Lightroom and enjoy the much better file management and the new automatic masking, not to mention that you also get Photoshop. If you are worried about worms, buy the cheap X Transformer and run the files through that first. The reason why files look better in C1 before being tweaked is a difference in philosophy. Adobe give you a flat looking result that can be changed manually or with any of the Fujifilm presets, or indeed a preset of your own (which can be applied automaticallyon import). Whereas C1 give you something that they think you might like.

Regarding sample variation. I have seen two very bad 18-55s and a bad 10-24, which my friend had to return to Fuji for repair twice before they would recognise there was a problem. I had a 10-24  that was fairly poor at the edges. I sold it. It seems that you can get the occasional bad apple with any lens. I have an 18-55 and the 16-80. My samples are about on a par optically and quite acceptable. I find the 16-80 to be a much more versatile lens. Additionally it has a much more capable ios. It is so good that you can forget about the loss of a stop at the wide end, except in the case of subject movement of course. Most of the reviews of the 16-80 seem to be expecting too much. Remember, it's a 5:1 zoom and is never going to be as sharp as a prime

Sharpness is not everything in a picture,  in fact beyond a certain point it is not important, and chasing after a small increase is pointless. Forget the stupid list and go out and enjoy what you have.

Sharpness is not everything in a picture,  in fact beyond a certain point it is not important, and chasing after a small increase is pointless. Forget the stupid list and go out and enjoy what you have.