Doug Pardee

The use of DR-Auto, DR200, and DR400 can raise the minimum ISO allowed. The 16-megapixel models can only do ISO 100 in JPEG mode, not in Raw or Raw+JPEG. Lens clutch set to manual-focus mode (for the lens models with a clutch). Manual-focus lens fitted.

Have you checked your DR setting?

The 2-core X Processor Pro chip in the X-H1 -- which is where things like AF are done -- is the same as in the rest of the X-T2 family. It simply doesn't have the power to do the fancy AF features that the new 4-core X Processor 4 chip (X-T3 and X-T30, and presumably X-A7) can do.

That's a common problem with the X-T10. There's no easy fix that I know of. If you're desperate, here's a video showing how to fix it yourself, but it's not for the faint of heart. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yk6PufFudvo You can try to get the button to pull back out and then rotate it into normal position, but the problem apparently is that the part inside that's supposed to hold it in place is broken, and the button will probably stick again very quickly.

Don't confuse the two things. Custom Settings C1-C7 allow you to set up virtual film types for JPEG shooting. The Q Menu is a control panel that allow you to see and to change 16 different camera settings of your choice. Unlike function buttons, the Q Menu shows the current setting as well as allowing you to change the setting. There is only one Q Menu. It is the Q Menu. As shipped by the factory, one of the settings in the Q Menu is the Custom Setting. That's the only connection between the two, but somehow people manage to get them confused all the time.

Fujifilm's improvement process for the X system is driven by its circle of X Photographers. They're not looking for input from random people on the Internet. As for bugs, your best bet is to send the camera to Fuji repair. It obviously wouldn't get fixed, but the repair center might verify the presence of the issue and tell you if it's being worked on, or if it's a previously unnoticed problem, they might report it internally.

My Yongnuo triggers work on my X-T10, so you should be able to make it work. Can you tell us what your flash settings are in your camera? The X-T2 has a far more extensive flash set-up than my simple X-T10 does. As a "check that it's plugged in" example, do you have "Flash Control Mode" set to M? You might want to review this page: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2_v41/peripherals_and_options/external_flash_units/index.html

Just FYI: the usual term for that is "brassing." Yeah, that's not all that helpful.

Select any Auto scene mode other than SR+ -- use Portrait, Portrait Enhancer, Landscape, Sport, etc. SR+ (automated scene recognition) needs to continuously scan to determine what kind of scene the camera is pointed at now. That includes varying the focus. If you leave the camera pointed at a scene for a few seconds, SR+ should settle down. As soon as you point somewhere else, or something in the scene changes, it'll start back up again. If you select a specific scene mode, there's no need for all of that scanning. SR+ is a battery hog, and if you're going to use Auto, I definitely recommend selecting an appropriate scene mode whenever you can. Oh, and the lens difference is just that the 27mm focuses by moving the entire optical assembly back and forth, which is slow and noisy... but retains excellent IQ given the restrictions of the pancake form factor. You'll see similar behavior on the Fuji primes that are faster than f/2. The 16-50 was doing the same thing, but with its lightweight inner-focusing system it's only obvious if you're looking through the viewfinder.

Setup > Screen Set-up > Disp. Custom Setting > Electronic Level http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html#disp_custom_setting

The Fuji cameras don't have an IR receiver for conventional wireless remotes. They seem to expect you to use their "camera remote" app on your mobile phone (or tablet).

It is the electronic equivalent of the mechanical shutter. In conventional CMOS sensors like Fuji uses, there is only "voltage storage" available for a single row at a time. Readout of a row cannot begin until the readout of the prior row is complete. For that reason, each row is processed one at a time. Conceptually, the processor resets the row to clear the old exposure data and then removes the reset to begin the exposure (first curtain). After the desired exposure time, the processor performs the readout on the row. The first step in readout effectively stops the exposure for the row (second curtain) when it converts the quantum electron counts in the photodiodes into analog voltage. Then the readout process converts each pixel's voltage to digital and transfers it to the processor. Finally, the processor moves on to the next row. It's probably difficult to tell in practice, but it's quite possible that the processor overlaps the exposure of row 2 with the tail end of the readout of row 1. This would involve two simultaneously-running processor threads: a "first curtain" that resets and then releases each row one at a time, and a "second curtain" that reads out each row one at a time. The second curtain thread would begin running after the first curtain thread, delayed by the desired exposure time (a half millisecond for 1/2000).

What Greybeard said. The mechanical shutter moves very quickly -- just a few milliseconds elapse from top to bottom. You can still get some rolling shutter with mechanical shutter, but the subject has to be moving really quickly for that to be picked up. The electronic shutter moves very slowly. On my aged X-T10, it takes maybe 70-75 milliseconds to scan the sensor. The more modern cameras will be somewhat faster, but not even close to the speed of a mechanical shutter. With both the mechanical and electronic shutter, at high shutter speeds the entire sensor isn't fully exposed at one time (that's the source of the rolling shutter effect). The mechanical shutter essentially reveals a gap between the two shutter curtains that travels down across the sensor. Then the shutter is left closed, stopping the exposure, while the sensor is being read out. The electronic shutter, however, has no way to stop the exposure without losing the data. Exposure of a row starts when its reset line is released, and continues until the reset line is reactivated (which zeroes out the exposure data). From the photographer's point of view, the exposure effectively ends when the row starts being read out, not when read-out is completed. But the camera can't snapshot the exposure data on the next row until this row is completely read out, so it can't even start the exposure on that row until this row is almost completely read out. Various approaches have been proposed for allowing the data from more than a single row to be locked in at the end of the desired exposure. The Global Electronic Shutter is the ultimate, allowing the entire sensor's contents to be saved at one time. Side note: the old CCD sensors generally had global electronic shutter. Rolling shutter is a phenomenon of the way current CMOS sensors are implemented.

The custom settings are essentially "virtual film types" for JPEG shooters. Raw shooters will have no use for custom settings. [On the cameras that don't have ISO dials -- X-T10/20/30 and X-E2/2S/3 -- the custom settings include ISO settings and, more importantly, auto-ISO configurations. Some Raw shooters might find having multiple auto-ISO configurations useful.] Because the Fuji uses control knobs for many functions, and there's no notion of PASM modes, exposure controls can't be saved and restored by the camera. This is, to me, the big downside of the direct controls. It would be nice if Fuji would at least let you set up a number of autofocus configurations. They couldn't control AF-S vs. AF-C, but all of the other AF settings are "soft." The Q menu is something totally different. It's a control panel that you can bring up with a single button-push that shows how 16 different features are currently configured, and allows you to change their settings directly from that control panel. You get to choose which features appear in the panel and how it's laid out. The Q menu doesn't "save" anything for later -- it changes the current camera settings.

Exactly. The viewfinder is trying to display 100 frames per second. That requires the camera to play with aperture if there's too much light, and ISO if there's too little light.

I'm not familiar with the X-T100, but what shutter speed are you using? It needs to be at X-Sync (1/180) or slower.

No, you can't charge it via USB.

Fuji derives the live-histogram from the viewfinder data. By turning off Preview Exp. in M Mode, the viewfinder and the histogram no longer reflect the (predicted) captured image. This isn't a problem with the usual usage of that option, which is flash photography, because the live-histogram isn't particularly useful in flash photography anyway. There's little advantage in using too low an ISO. All that you gain is some highlight headroom, and you can achieve that with DR200 or DR400 without messing up your workflow so much. Doing amplification in post will increase posterization of gradients. And if you're shooting at ISO 200 when you should've been at 800 or above, you're going to have higher noise due to the dual conversion gain (quantum-to-analog) structure of the X-T2 sensor. For best results, shoot at the highest ISO setting that gives you adequate highlight headroom (for a given shutter speed/aperture setting).

Unless you're operating in full manual exposure mode -- manual shutter speed, manual aperture, and manual ISO -- you normally won't see any difference because the camera will automatically adjust the other settings to compensate. The Exposure Compensation dial can be used to lighten or darken the viewfinder and captured image. If you are in full manual mode, you won't see any difference if you have the Preview Exp. in M Mode option turned off. Normally you would turn this off for flash photography but on for normal photography. To satisfy yourself, just look in the front of the lens and half-press the shutter release. Note: if you aren't half-pressing the shutter release, the iris may be opening and closing or sitting at any setting that the camera considers useful for capturing the EVF/LCD viewfinder image, so don't pay any attention to that. You need to half-press.

You could try Fujifilm. I also see a number of Chinese sellers on eBay advertising them at around $40 (USD). Assuming you're in the US, it'll take a few weeks for shipping, and hopefully the latest tariff war won't cause any problems.

The "somehow" is almost always due to accidentally pushing the right-arrow button while carrying the camera when it's on. The first push brings up the WB menu, the second push brings up the WB Shift screen, and subsequent pushes move the WB Shift toward the red. I recommend that you either disable the right-arrow button (choose "None" for its function), or put something on there that won't mess you up if that button gets hit accidentally. Another thing you might think about doing is to lock the buttons while you're just carrying the camera. Long-press the MENU/OK button to lock or unlock the arrow buttons and Q button. The X-T30 got rid of the arrow buttons, so it doesn't have this problem, but it's common with the X-T10 and X-T20. The right-arrow button sits right under your thumb when you're holding and carrying the camera (unless you hold and carry the camera in your left hand, like us old-timers do). Grip just a bit too hard -- more likely when carrying than when shooting -- and the button gets clicked.

That looked to me like auto-WB doing what it does: change the coloration based on what's in the frame.

Check your WB Shift settings for whatever white balance you're using (probably Auto). Chances are you accidentally shifted it all the way to the red by bumping the right-arrow button while carrying it.

Be aware that Wide/Tracking is contrast-detect only, at least on the 16- and 24-megapixel Fujis. I don't know about the 26-megapixel models.

Each pixel is a single color channel. There are red pixels, green pixels, and blue pixels.