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Doug Pardee

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Doug Pardee last won the day on March 22

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About Doug Pardee

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  1. Doug Pardee

    What max. aperture does the X-mount support

    It's a non-trivial question. The size of the lens's exit pupil is focal length divided by f-number. So, a 50 mm f/0.95 lens has an exit pupil of about 52-1/2 mm. Then you need to concern yourself with the (diagonal) size of the sensor and the distance the exit pupil is from the sensor. Then do the math, and you can determine how large the mount opening has to be at any given distance from the sensor. But you probably don't know the distance the exit pupil is from the sensor. More realistically, you can determine how far the lens's exit pupil has to be for a given sensor and mount size. Fuji's X-Trans III sensor is about 28.2 mm in diameter, so the maximum exit pupil size increases by about 0.89 mm for each mm of exit pupil distance. So that 50mm f/0.95 lens needs to have its exit pupil at least 27-1/2 mm from the sensor. The problem comes in when you increase the sensor size, as Sony did. Sony's full-frame sensor is 43mm diagonal. Maximum exit pupil size then increases by only 0.17mm per mm of exit pupil distance. That 50mm f/0.95 lens will need to have its exit pupil at least 55.7 mm from the sensor. [No guarantees my math is 100% correct. Feel free to check me.]
  2. Doug Pardee

    Setting Up MF Lenses / Mount Adaptor

    Those features are only available for the official Fujifilm M Mount Adapter. They're not available for other adapters.
  3. Doug Pardee

    FOLDERS for Bracketing

    Unfortunately, you can't. Japanese camera manufacturers have to follow the DCF specification for folder structure and file names, and DCF doesn't give any such ability. DCF is clearly outdated, but there doesn't seem to be any update underway.
  4. Doug Pardee

    XT20: focus lock & auto ISO queries

    1. I'm not talking about touching ISO via the Q menus. I'm talking about selecting C1 through C7. This is very easy to do accidentally when using the Q menu, and it will cause the camera's ISO configuration to be replaced by the one in the C setting. 2. Just change your AF-L button to be AF-ON.
  5. Doug Pardee

    Face/eye detection on the XT2

    Oh, one more item: 8. If you're using AF-S, when you're ready to take the picture, press the shutter release smoothly all the way down, without stopping at half-press. That way, the instant the camera has achieved focus on the face or eye, it'll release the shutter. If you stop at half-press like people tend to do, the subject (or camera) could move, causing the locked-in focus distance to be off by the time you actually release the shutter. It's best not to use image stabilization (OIS or IBIS) with this technique, because the IS may still be stabilizing when the picture is snapped. If you must use IS, set the IS mode to "continuous" (which further drains the battery).
  6. Doug Pardee

    Face/eye detection on the XT2

    I generally prefer to avoid the frustration. But here are a few items. Have only one face in the scene, and make it fairly big. Say, at least the size of the "standard" medium-sized AF point, preferably bigger. Head-and-shoulders portrait is ideal. I'd recommend keeping the face in the phase-detect AF point area on X-Trans III cameras like the X-T2, although that might be mere superstition. Turning Pre-AF on will help keep the face focused enough that the camera can find and track it. If you don't have Pre-AF turned on, tap the AF to get the face in focus first, so the camera can find it. Then let the face detection work. If you don't have Pre-AF turned on, remember that face/eye detection doesn't actually refocus on the face until you activate AF (half-press or AF-ON). If a detected face moves closer or farther before you activate AF, it might get out of focus enough that the camera loses track of it. In that case you'll need to tap the AF again to get it sharp enough that the camera can find it again. When a face is detected, the camera overrides both your focus and autoexposure settings. If you don't like the exposure, Exposure Compensation or manual exposure are your only recourses. Have some spare batteries at hand, because face detection can suck a lot of battery power, and adding Pre-AF makes it even worse.
  7. Doug Pardee

    XT20: focus lock & auto ISO queries

    1. You're probably playing with the C1-C7 "custom settings" either intentionally or accidentally (probably in the Q menu). Each of those custom settings has its own auto-ISO configuration, and every time you select one of those its auto-ISO configuration overwrites what was in the camera. I suggest that you set all of the custom settings to the auto-ISO configuration that you like, so that when you select one of them you'll get an auto-ISO configuration that you can deal with. Or if you don't care about JPEGs, leave the custom settings alone. 2. Yes, it changed from the earlier generations. The X-T20 now has an AF-ON option as well, that you can assign to the AF-L button (or any other assignable button). All of the X-Trans III generation are like that.
  8. Doug Pardee

    New Focus Stacking feature on v4 firmware

    I'd think this would be a great situation for using electronic shutter. The subject pretty much has to be stationary, so unless you're using gas-discharge lighting, ES should work great.
  9. Doug Pardee

    Trouble with infinity xf18-55

    A few general comments. The easiest way to do an "autofocus then leave it" is to switch to AF-M and use Instant AF (AF-S version). That's usually the AF-L button. You may need to check your AF settings and button settings. The details differ depending on the camera you're using. Here's Fuji's web page on that technique: http://www.fujifilm-x.com/af/en/af_guide/point06.html You should always focus at the focal length you're intending to photograph at. Ordinary camera "zooms" aren't parfocal, which means that their focus changes when you adjust the focal length. Focal length also tends to change with focus. If you absolutely need focus and focal length to be independent, you'll need about $4000 (USD) for the MKX 18-55 cine lens. Your shooting aperture has no effect on AF in AF-S. It does in AF-C. In AF-S, the camera will automatically select an aperture that it thinks will give it the best AF accuracy.
  10. Because if all you're recording is Raw, all the camera has to work with is the low-resolution "preview" image embedded in the Raw file. As you've noticed, if you shoot Raw+JPEG you've got the hi-res JPEG for the camera to zoom in on.
  11. Just take some pictures with it. The 27mm is a simple lens, mechanically. It's got an aperture control and a focus motor that racks the entire lens assembly back and forth. There's really nothing exotic to look for. If it focuses and stops down properly, and the pictures look good, you're set. And with a basic lens design like this, it's extremely unlikely that anything will be wrong with it. Note: the lens cap will not fit properly. If it even comes with a lens cap (the seller hasn't already lost it), don't be surprised if you lose the cap within the first month or so. Me, I just do without a lens cap. If you are compulsive about lens caps, I suggest you order a replacement right now -- but not a Fujifilm cap.
  12. Doug Pardee

    Next Rangefinder-like camera?

    I don't know what you're looking for. The X-E3 is the most recent model aside from the X-H1. It's got all of the most recent "goodies" that Fuji could fit into that little body. I doubt we'll see an X-E4 for a while yet. The X-E3 is still too new.
  13. Doug Pardee

    Q menu

    You locked it the same way you unlocked it: press and hold the Menu/OK button. This time until the padlock shows up. http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t20_v11/about_this_camera/parts/index.html#button_selector
  14. Doug Pardee

    XT2 problem correct exposure

    There is no such thing as a "correct" Raw exposure. It really doesn't matter what the raw numerical value of, say, 18% gray is. It does (arguably) matter what the JPEG numerical value of, say, 18% gray is (sRGB: 118). I say "arguably" because virtually all modern digital cameras intentionally over-brighten their JPEGs, because it turns out that most people think that "correct" exposures look dark. The numerical values of Raw are fluid, depending on how much highlight headroom is desired. Fujifilm has a long history of protecting highlights, and tends to provide more highlight headroom in Raw, meaning you can recover more overexposed highlights or can roll them off however you wish. Thus, the numerical values of Fujifilm Raw data tends to be lower than for Raw files from many other cameras. And with Fuji, you can further increase the highlight headroom with DR200 and DR400.
  15. Doug Pardee

    Q menu

    Press and hold the Menu/OK button until the padlock goes away. You accidentally activated the button lock function, which is useful to keep buttons from accidentally getting pressed.
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