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Doug Pardee

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Doug Pardee last won the day on December 28 2019

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  1. Color filters are normally used with B&W film. Your X-T4 already has yellow, green, and red filter options for the in-camera B&W (and Acros) film simulations. If you're post-processing into B&W, just about all B&W conversion software provides color filtering capabilities.
  2. No, you can't. The X-T1 doesn't provide HDMI video output except for playback. It can only record video internally. You need a later model for that. The video capability of the 16-bit generation was (correctly, in my opinion) considered to be the laughing-stock of the industry at the time. It was one of those things that appears to have been added to get the checkmark for the feature: yeah, it has video. The X-T2 and others of its generation were a huge step forward in video. The X-T3 even more so, and the X-T4 even more.
  3. The news is not good. See this earlier thread:
  4. 1. DxO refuses to have anything to do with X-Trans sensors. Until very recently, they refused to have anything to do with Fujifilm at all, even their Bayer-sensored cameras. 2. Fujifilm -- along with Olympus, Panasonic, and Ricoh/Pentax -- honors the traditional "18% gray" brightness target value. That brightness goal was set during the days of B&W photography, and we've learned that color photographs tend to look a bit "underexposed" at that brightness level. For that reason, Canon's DSLRs derate the ISO number, so that you get about one stop brighter image -- about 35% gray. Sony does the same, and Nikon changed over about a decade back. So the "Big 3" manufacturers all use an ISO rating system that produces images about a stop brighter than those produced by Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax. What is measured as ISO 200 on the old "18% gray" plan is now being marked as ISO 100 by the big brands. In fact, when NIkon made the change, people commented about how Nikon DSLRs used to only go down to ISO 200 but now were going down to ISO 100. To get 18% gray on one of the big guy's cameras, you need to meter at twice the ISO that the camera is set to. [By the way, Canon tried the 18% gray target in the Rebel XTi/400D DSLR, and people complained about how dark its pictures were.] When using in-camera metering on Fuji, the multi-zone metering runs about a stop brighter than the "dumb" metering modes. That way Fuji produces the same bright color images that the Big 3 manufacturers do -- in Multi metering mode. But the difference in brightness between in-camera metering modes catches a lot of people off-guard. Personal opinion: the days of "18% gray" are behind us. Canon, Nikon, and Sony have long abandoned that standard, and virtually nobody has complained. It's probably time for Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax to make the change, too.
  5. You'll have to reconfigure C6 to be what C2 currently is, and C2 to be what C6 currently is. You can't just swap them.
  6. I think you're taking something that's totally simple and complicating it. In auto-exposure, you use the EC dial to set where you want the exposure metering to be. Typically, that'll be center. The camera will then set the exposure to produce that result. Therefore, what you see in the meter is what you should get in the picture. Whether it's manual or auto-exposure makes no difference. In Manual exposure you're turning the dials to put the meter where you want it, and in auto-exposure the camera is doing that. I will add, though, that with Fuji cameras, if the auto-exposure system cannot achieve the desired exposure (usually because it can't open the lens any wider), that will not show up on the meter. Instead it shows up as the calculated exposure numbers in the viewfinder appearing in red. There's a similar problem with manual exposure used with auto-ISO. And a pedantic note: there's no such thing as "correct exposure." There's only the camera's guess at what would be a usable exposure. It's up to you, the photographer, to decide if the camera might be misjudging the scene -- or perhaps you want a different effect.
  7. The 16-megapixel Fujis simply aren't built for moving subjects. The AF-C is almost unusable, as is the video. Those two items were the big improvements in the X-T2, and they were further improved a lot in the X-T3. Your best bet is probably to use Zone AF, with the central 3x5 zone that uses only PDAF-capable AF points. Use AF-S, and press the shutter all the way down without stopping when you're ready to take a picture. That way the camera will focus and then snap the picture the instant that focus is achieved. Of course, you won't have any clue what it'll focus on, but if you keep the subject near the center of the zone, without any closer objects, it'll probably work... at least sometimes. You might try dropping down to the 3x3 zone to reduce the amount of the scene that the camera can choose to focus on. Alas, the actual fix is for you to buy an X-T3.
  8. The 35 f/2 should be reasonably quiet. All Fujifilm lenses faster than f/2, and that includes your 23mm and 56mm, have to move a lot of glass to change focus. That requires powerful AF motors which are slow and noisy. The quietest lenses are those with linear motors, which you can easily recognize by the LM in their official designation. At the moment, most of those are zooms. The XF90mmF2 R LM WR is the only LM prime I know of, although it does require four linear motors to shove its focusing glass around.
  9. You can't reinstall old firmware. The camera will ignore firmware older than what's already installed. Fuji's repair people can do it -- they have special tools, needed for dealing with bricked cameras -- but it's not something that owners can do.
  10. Do you happen to have Large Indicators turned on?
  11. It sounds like you've got the camera set for single-point AF. Meaning you're telling the camera to use only that one focus point. Try Zone AF, which allows a 3x3, 5x5, or 7x7 group of AF points. Obviously (?), the larger the zone the more likely the camera is to focus on something, but the less likely it is to focus on what you want it to focus on. Or you could go to Wide AF, where the camera can pick anything in the frame to focus on. AF is unrelated to exposure mode. It works the same on Program exposure as on Manual exposure.
  12. Film simulation is just one piece of a Custom Setting. When you select a Custom Setting, you are loading the entire Custom Setting into the camera. All of the many parts of that Custom Setting --- film simulation, white balance, highlight tones, shadow tones, color saturation, noise reduction, sharpening, DR, etc. -- will replace whatever your camera had been set to. When you change the film simulation, that changes just the film simulation, without changing anything else. You just need to set up a "standard" Custom Setting. It's probably most convenient to put that in C1.
  13. The Auto mode (activated with the switch on the top panel) normally limits you to only Provia, except in SR+ (scene recognition) mode, you can also use Sepia or B&W.
  14. I have no definitive information to impart. But my impression has been that the complaints of hunting with the new firmware are specific to using AF-C with apertures of f/9, f/10, and f/11. With the older firmware, phase-detect AF is still used at those apertures with AF-C. With the new firmware, contrast-detect (hunting) AF is used at those apertures in AF-C. This is (again, my impression) unrelated to focusing distance -- just to selected aperture. As to whether this will be fixed in a firmware update, that probably depends a lot on whether the newer f/11 PDAF limit was abandoned in favor of the older f/8 limit for a reason, or if that was just a mistake. Be aware that even phase-detect has its limitations. When you're shooting at MFD at f/8 or wider, your depth of field is typically going to be thin. When the camera tries to AF, it's possible that the target is initially so out-of-focus that the camera can't make it out. In that case, Fuji does a three-step PDAF: it focuses to distance (near infinity), then close-up (near MFD), then to the focus distance it's determined. WIth some lenses, this can look like hunting (with LM lenses it usually just looks like a shimmer when focus locks on). And there's the standard caveat for all OSPDAF systems to date: if the camera can't get a good image to PDAF from, it always reserves the right to switch to contrast-detect (hunting) AF.
  15. It's flush, presumably to prevent accidentally hitting it while trying to operate the shutter release and the other top controls. Historically, that was the "video record" button and it needed to be held for a bit before it took effect.
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