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Doug Pardee

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Doug Pardee last won the day on November 29 2018

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About Doug Pardee

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  1. Exactly. The viewfinder is trying to display 100 frames per second. That requires the camera to play with aperture if there's too much light, and ISO if there's too little light.
  2. I'm not familiar with the X-T100, but what shutter speed are you using? It needs to be at X-Sync (1/180) or slower.
  3. No, you can't charge it via USB.
  4. Fuji derives the live-histogram from the viewfinder data. By turning off Preview Exp. in M Mode, the viewfinder and the histogram no longer reflect the (predicted) captured image. This isn't a problem with the usual usage of that option, which is flash photography, because the live-histogram isn't particularly useful in flash photography anyway. There's little advantage in using too low an ISO. All that you gain is some highlight headroom, and you can achieve that with DR200 or DR400 without messing up your workflow so much. Doing amplification in post will increase posterization of gradients. And if you're shooting at ISO 200 when you should've been at 800 or above, you're going to have higher noise due to the dual conversion gain (quantum-to-analog) structure of the X-T2 sensor. For best results, shoot at the highest ISO setting that gives you adequate highlight headroom (for a given shutter speed/aperture setting).
  5. Unless you're operating in full manual exposure mode -- manual shutter speed, manual aperture, and manual ISO -- you normally won't see any difference because the camera will automatically adjust the other settings to compensate. The Exposure Compensation dial can be used to lighten or darken the viewfinder and captured image. If you are in full manual mode, you won't see any difference if you have the Preview Exp. in M Mode option turned off. Normally you would turn this off for flash photography but on for normal photography. To satisfy yourself, just look in the front of the lens and half-press the shutter release. Note: if you aren't half-pressing the shutter release, the iris may be opening and closing or sitting at any setting that the camera considers useful for capturing the EVF/LCD viewfinder image, so don't pay any attention to that. You need to half-press.
  6. You could try Fujifilm. I also see a number of Chinese sellers on eBay advertising them at around $40 (USD). Assuming you're in the US, it'll take a few weeks for shipping, and hopefully the latest tariff war won't cause any problems.
  7. The "somehow" is almost always due to accidentally pushing the right-arrow button while carrying the camera when it's on. The first push brings up the WB menu, the second push brings up the WB Shift screen, and subsequent pushes move the WB Shift toward the red. I recommend that you either disable the right-arrow button (choose "None" for its function), or put something on there that won't mess you up if that button gets hit accidentally. Another thing you might think about doing is to lock the buttons while you're just carrying the camera. Long-press the MENU/OK button to lock or unlock the arrow buttons and Q button. The X-T30 got rid of the arrow buttons, so it doesn't have this problem, but it's common with the X-T10 and X-T20. The right-arrow button sits right under your thumb when you're holding and carrying the camera (unless you hold and carry the camera in your left hand, like us old-timers do). Grip just a bit too hard -- more likely when carrying than when shooting -- and the button gets clicked.
  8. That looked to me like auto-WB doing what it does: change the coloration based on what's in the frame.
  9. Check your WB Shift settings for whatever white balance you're using (probably Auto). Chances are you accidentally shifted it all the way to the red by bumping the right-arrow button while carrying it.
  10. Be aware that Wide/Tracking is contrast-detect only, at least on the 16- and 24-megapixel Fujis. I don't know about the 26-megapixel models.
  11. Each pixel is a single color channel. There are red pixels, green pixels, and blue pixels.
  12. That belief has been pretty thoroughly debunked over the years, but some people just won't let go. Yes, on a per-pixel basis, there will be less noise with larger pixels. But on a per-square-cm basis, the noise is the same. [It might have been true in ye olden dayes before microlenses became standard on sensors, because of the big gaps between pixels.] However, that is assuming that the entire sensor is always being read. If you're doing video and the camera is using line-skipping, then you won't have the in-between lines to help smooth out the noise. There's no real advantage to having more pixels than you're going to record, and that's often the case for video. Also, phase-detect AF cannot be averaged over multiple pixels, because it's specifically looking for differences between neighboring pixels. So you'll get better low-light PDAF performance with larger pixels, albeit with reduced precision.
  13. The camera clearly thinks it's got either no lens or a manual-only lens (they look the same to the camera). No electronic aperture control (hence the F0), no autofocus (hence the failure to focus). And unless you've set Shoot Without Lens on, it won't take a picture. You've already tried different lenses, so it sounds like the camera is broken. You could try a factory reset on it, to see if that'll bring it to its senses, but I wouldn't put money on it.
  14. To summarize what I wrote over at DPReview: True WYSIWYG only applies to M mode with Preview Exp. in M. Mode turned on. The AE modes (P, A, and S) are WYSIWYW (what you see is what you want). Most of the time that's the same as WYSIWYG, but you can't always get what you want. If the AE and auto-ISO systems are unable to achieve the desired result because the scene is simply too dark or too bright, the viewfinder will not show the unwanted darkness or brightness. M mode with Preview Exp. in M. Mode turned off is also WYSIWYW if auto-ISO is used. But if a constant ISO is chosen, the viewfinder has a constant brightness unrelated to exposure, which is particularly useful for framing flash photos.
  15. It's probably a number of factors. Here are some possibilities: people buy primes because they value maximum image quality, while people buy zooms because they value convenience people who buy primes might be expected to be more experienced at holding a camera steady, and to own a tripod, than purchasers of zooms people who buy primes might value a smaller lens a number of the wide-angle primes were designed for use with the X-Pro1, and thus had to be kept rather small to minimize blocking of the optical viewfinder many primes are available with large apertures if you want faster shutter speeds, while fast zooms are rare
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