Doug Pardee

No, you can't move the zoomed-in area around. If you're using single-point autofocus, it zooms in on the selected AF point. Otherwise it zooms in on the center.

That happens if you set your aperture to Automatic (A) with shutter speed set to Bulb (B ). In order to compute the aperture, the camera has to know the shutter speed (and ISO). So it arbitrarily picks 30 seconds for the shutter speed. See the gray box at the bottom of page 65 of the manual (the page about B mode).

You should be able to do that on the X-T2. And the X-Pro2, X-T20, and X100F. Be careful of blown highlights, though.

Fujifilm's handling of flash is downright primitive. You have to reconfigure the camera to full manual exposure (shutter, aperture, and ISO) and turn off "Preview Exp. in Manual Mode" so that you can see through the viewfinder. Plus, of course, activate and configure the flash. Then when you're done, you have to switch everything back. Even my 35-year-old Canon AE-1 has enough sense to force the shutter speed down to X-Sync when on-camera flash is active. My 12-year-old entry-level Canon Rebel XT DSLR adds an option to force shutter speed up to X-Sync in aperture priority mode when the flash is active, it automatically recognizes when HSS is being used, and it automatically adjusts the exposure compensation and flash exposure compensation to deal with the added lighting the flash provides. But not Fuji. There is nothing -- nothing -- that is automatically reconfigured when flash is activated. It's all left to the photographer. That's fine for me. I rarely used flash before, and now I just don't bother at all unless I'm doing an entire session with flash. It's not worth the trouble.

You are, unfortunately, correct. Fujifilm AF operates stopped down in AF-C mode, and the PDAF sensors are only rated for f/8. At f/9 or above, CDAF is used exclusively. In AF-S mode, AF is done with the lens wide open, so this isn't a problem. In AF-M mode, the Instant AF feature behaves exactly the same. If it's configured for AF-C, the AF is performed stopped down and PDAF is only available up to f/8. If it's configured for AF-S, the AF is performed with the lens wide open.

I'm not at all sure what you're asking. Autofocus and metering are separate functions. The only time they interact is if you have: Single-point AF Spot metering Face detection OFF Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area ON (manual page 96) If you have all four of those conditions, then the spot being metered will be at the selected AF point. Otherwise, spot metering always looks at the center of the image.

The B&W box is the split image. If you then click the rear command dial, the viewfinder will zoom in on just that box. If you click the rear command dial again, it'll zoom back out to the entire scene (with the box in the center). Note: the effectiveness of the splitting depends on having a larger aperture (small f-number). You'll want to set your lens wide-open while focusing, then stop it down as desired to take the picture. The camera's phase-detect sensors are designed for f/8 at the maximum, and even at f/8 you won't get much "splitting" effect. Personally, I prefer focus-peaking or even the "standard" 2-level zoom.

It'd help a lot to know what kind of camera you're using. On the X-T10, it's "Setup menu 2" > Connection Setting > Wireless Settings > Resize Image For Smartphone.

Flash is disabled with any or all of the following: Electronic shutter (ES or MS+ES) Continuous drive modes CH or CL Bracketing drive mode BKT Panorama drive mode Sound and Flash Off I don't know exactly what you mean by "aperture setting." The only "aperture setting" I know of is only used when you have a lens mounted that doesn't have an aperture ring. That would be either of the XC budget-priced lenses, or the XF 27mm f/2.8 pancake lens.

As you'd originally thought, bodies and lenses have different firmware and need to be updated separately. To be on the safe side, make sure the body is up-to-date before updating the lens. It should work the other way around, but there have been a couple of unpleasant incidents with certain camera/firmware/lens combinations when the camera wasn't updated first. Here's the page with all of the updates. Scroll down past the cameras to get to the lenses: http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/fw_table.html As you said, the latest X-T10 firmware is 1.21, which you already have. You didn't say which lens you have, but the only lens with firmware at 3.12 or above is the 18-55, and its current firmware is 3.21. So all you'd need to do is update the lens. Unless you typo'd the version number, and you've really got 3.21 already. Note: Fujifilm's firmware update process will only apply newer updates. It will simply ignore update files for the version that's already installed, and for earlier versions. So there's no way to accidentally (or intentionally) set things back to an earlier version.

In the "check to be sure it's plugged in" category... are you putting the card in the right way round? The "clipped" corner of the card goes toward the tripod mount, and that edge goes in first.

I'd add that there's an "Aperture" menu setting that determines whether or not you can dial to the A position. See page 98 of the (English) X-T10 manual.

Check the shooting mode dial. EVF+Eye Sensor only works in S, CL, CH, BKT1, and BKT2 modes. In ADV1, ADV2, Multiple-exposure, and Panorama modes it leaves the EVF on. No, I have no clue why that is. However, normal Eye Sensor mode should switch between EVF and LCD in all shooting modes.

Fujifilm doesn't seem to have any particular "cycles". On top of that, the GFX line -- both bodies and lenses -- is going to be taking a chunk of Fuji's attention and manufacturing space that previously had been available for the X-mount cameras.

Canon did one, back in 1991 or so: the Canon EF-M film SLR. It apparently sold unlike hot-cakes, and Canon has never tried that again. (Canon now uses the EF-M moniker for its mirrorless lens mount, which is something totally different.) Modern lenses are designed for auto-focus, and manual focus tends to be rather unsatisfying with them. To really be worthwhile, a manual-focus camera would need a line of manual-focus lenses, but that would definitely be unprofitable except maybe at Leica prices. I can't really think of much that a manual-focus-only camera body would offer. You're already welcome to manual-focus your X-mount lenses: just switch to AF-M. As Larry said, you can also use classic manual-focus lenses with an adapter. And do feel free to reassign your camera's buttons so that they aren't tied up with autofocus features. In Fuji's menu system, the autofocus settings are all grouped under a single menu item, so not really a source of clutter.

Canon's Tales by Light series is currently available on Netflix: http://petapixel.com/2016/11/12/canons-tales-light-tv-series-now-netflix/ It's not your typical photographer, but there's Gregory Crewdson: Brief Encounters. Of course there's From the Edge with Peter Lik. An historical overview: Photo: A History from Behind the Lens.

The pricing is almost certainly set by Fujifilm, not by a collusion between retailers. In the US, since June 28, 2007, manufacturers are allowed to set minimum retail prices for their products. (Certain specific instances might be found to be anti-competitive, but that would require taking the matter to court to prove.) A somewhat technical discussion of the matter can be found here: http://www.theantitrustattorney.com/2014/10/02/classic-antitrust-cases-leegin-resale-price-maintenance-agreements/

I'm assuming you're in the US, since you seem to be quoting US dollars. Those are the sale prices. I doubt they're "Cyber Monday" prices, just general Fujifilm sale prices. I get the impression that Fujifilm doesn't allow retailer discounts. Regular prices are $899 for the 23mm and $999 for the 56mm. See this page on the FujiRumors site for a list of items in the current US Fujifilm sale. Fujifilm runs sales a number of times a year -- to the point that nobody "in the know" buys Fuji equipment at full price if they can stand to wait a few months. It's quite possible that you happened to write down the prices during an earlier sale.

As others have said, you need to turn the aperture control (rear wheel on the camera) all the way until it selects A mode. If you don't have an A mode showing up, go to Shooting Menu 5>Aperture Setting and turn it on.

I can't speak to the evolutionary question, but one reason I bought the X-T10 is the JPEG renditions of the various film simulations. It should be noted, though, that you can't get a "straight" JPEG -- there's always some film simulation applied, even if it's the default Provia. For people who want "accurate" rather than "pleasing" images, that disqualifies the Fujifilm JPEGs. As to the X-T20, I don't know of any rumors of such a model, and I'm not convinced there will be one at all. The X-T10 was a step-child of the X-Trans II family, produced in Thailand instead of Japan. And it caused significant confusion to buyers, who had to try to decide between the X-T1 and X-T10. I'm not sure that Fujifilm wants to get into that again. But you never know what Fujifilm will do. On the other hand, whatever they do, you can count on it showing up on FujiRumors at least a couple of months before any announcement, which will probably be another couple of months before availability.

You can always dream, but Fujifilm's focus has always been on stills photography. It's always possible they'll change, but if you're a video nut, you probably should be looking at Panasonic instead, especially their GH line. The GH4 is the absolute darling of videographers, and at Photokina Panny announced that the GH5 is coming "early" next year. The GH5 will feature 4K 4:2:2 10-bit internal. "Technology needs to be pushed" isn't a Fujifilm trait. Compare Fujifilm against any of the other ILC manufacturers, and Fuji comes in dead-last in high-tech features. They seem to prefer to work with proven technology and put their ingenuity into optics and JPEG conversion. The one technological advance they've bet on -- the X-Trans sensor -- is loved by some and hated by some. Many people say they'll never buy an X-Trans camera, ever, and Fujifilm has backed away from X-Trans for their new medium-format camera in order to placate working professionals. Certainly for video, X-Trans has proved to be a big problem. Fujifilm would have to make a serious change in direction to become the camera manufacturer you're looking for. It could happen, but not soon. I suggest you get a GH4 and, for your street photography, an X100T (or wait for the imminent X100F).

I doubt that either one is the case. Most likely, Fujifilm needed to put their Thailand production line to work making the X-A3. And they likely already had enough X-T10 units stockpiled in their warehouses to last them a year or more. When they're done producing X-A3 units, then maybe we'll see something else produced in Thailand.

Most commercial and industrial lighting is also going to be problematic due to being gas discharge. In particular, I've seen a lot of complaints with indoor sporting events (basketball, hockey, etc.).

With the Fujifilm cameras you can choose from AF-S on the shutter button, AF-C on the shutter button, AF-S on the back button, or AF-C on the back button. Selecting AF-M disengages AF from the shutter button and turns on back-button focus. There's a menu option to choose whether back-button focus is AF-S or AF-C.

"Back-button focus" is a common point of confusion on Fujifilm cameras, and for the same reason that people get confused by the lack of a PASM dial. Fujifilm offers the same functionality but the controls are different. Most DSLRs have an AF-S/AF-C setting and a "back button focus" setting. Fujifilm has a shutter-release AF setting and a back-button AF setting. To get back-button focus, simply flip the front switch to AF-M. That decouples the autofocus from the shutter release. As for which mode the back button works in (AF-S or AF-C) when the front switch is in AF-M, there's a menu setting for that. I've heard that older Fujifilm cameras interrupt back-button AF when the shutter is fired. In AF-C, this forces the camera to reacquire focus for each shot in a burst rather than simply continuing tracking. I've heard that the new models "correctly" ignore the shutter actuation and continue tracking. Exactly which models do what, I don't know, but I think it's a safe guess that the X-T2 and the X-Pro2 (at least with the upcoming AF firmware update) continue tracking.