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MonGoose

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  1. Aperture mode - Set aperture on lens. - Set shutter dial to A. - Set ISO dial to A and use front command to dial auto ISO (with a minimum of 1/125” when shooting people). - Set EC dial to C and use front command dial to compensate exposure. I only scroll the front command dial to adjust EC. The auto ISO setting guarantees a safe shutter speed. This method works well for me when lighting is changing. Should the camera choose odd exposure, I can lock exposure with the AEL button and then dial in the proper EC. Manual mode - Set aperture on lens. - Set shutter dial to T and use back command dial to choose shutter speed. - Set ISO dial to A and use front command dial to choose ISO. - Set EC dial to 0 or leave it at C. EC is not used in manual mode so you can ignore it. Basically you scroll with the two command dials and balance shutter and ISO. Very easy and useful when lighting is stable or with flash (I set flash to TTL and adjust FEC on the flash itself). It saves a lot of time in post processing when exposure is set properly in camera. For the same reason I like to set WB manually in camera. So the only thing that changes is this: Aperture mode = shutter dial set to A + front command set to control EC. Manual mode = shutter dial set to T + front command set to control ISO. These methods offer best control and quickest results to me. As nice as the top dials are, they aren't nearly as comfortable as the command wheels. Fuji should make the ISO/shutter/EC dials stick out a bit and make them less rigid so we could easily scroll them with one finger. As it stands today, I need two fingers to change either ISO/shutter/EC dial, which is a major PITA. If at least the EC dial was accessible with one finger and less rigid, we wouldn't need to toggle the front command dial between ISO and EC. Anyway, the command wheels work well but it would be even better if the top dials were more accessible and less rigid. I dabbled with semi-manual mode (set aperture and shutter, let camera choose ISO) but this didn't offer good results because you can only compensate within the limits of min/max ISO. How do you set exposure?
  2. I was eyeing the XE3 to upgrade from XE2S because of lacking AF speed and precision (you can't track children with XE2S) but instead got a lightly used XT2 for the same price as a new XE3. The difference is huge. Not only is AF a big improvement, with the XT2 I also got better controls, more useful options, and a much bigger viewfinder which I thought wasn't necessary but now I wouldn't want to go back. XE3 and XT2 both have similar AF capabilities. But ergomically the XE3 is big leap behind the XT2 bodies: touch screen is a meaningless gimmick whereas the lack of extra ISO/drive/metering dials and lack of extra Fn buttons is significant. So yes an upgrade makes sense but I'd also consider XT2 as an upgrade form XE2. I'd rather buy an older high end camera than a new low/medium end camera.
  3. Of course, you are comparing two different lenses as well. Who would be comparing two identical lenses. How can 35 WR be so different from 23 WR. Same design.
  4. My 23mm f2 is visibly much sharper than my 35mm f1. 4. To the point that I cannot get eyes fully sharp with the latter.
  5. I love the 14-23mm combo, they combine in a very natural way. However, I always found 23-56mm too much hassle switching lenses back & forth. I prefer 35mm instead of 56mm, it's much more flexible. 56mm is restrictive, it' excels in single portraits and that's it, whereas 35mm can do portraits of both singles and couples. Because of that, 35mm is my favorite for family and weddings. By flexible I also mean that with a 35 you can step back and mimic a 23 without needing a lens change, or step forward and mimic a 56. But you can never step back far enough with a 56 to mimic a 23! Neither can you step forward with a 23 for a headshot without hideous head distortion!! So you end up switching lenses all the time and wish you had chosen a 35mm. If I need anything longer than 35mm, a good tele zoom has always been a better tool than juggling tele primes. 14mm - 23mm - 35mm for me. Or 16mm instead of 14mm. This distribution is the most equal.
  6. What does that imply?
  7. Superior in what way? The f2 has much faster focus, is sharper, built in metal vs plastic and doesn't rattle . F2 is superior in every way except it' s one stop darker.
  8. Mine is tack sharp. Perhaps people mean soft at minimum range + wide open. But then they're using it the wrong way. Either back off or stop down. Excellent lens. Can't complain. If the 35 wr is equally good, I'm selling my 35/1.4.
  9. I have the same issue. It's a shame xt2 cannot properly trap focus. The priority feature is useless.
  10. The 23 WR and 35 WR lenses have 43mm filter size. There aren't many, if any, 6 stop ND filters in this size. B+W and Hoya produce 49mm and 52mm filters, not 43mm. So what filter size do people commonly choose for tehse lenses, 49mm or 52mm with step up ring? 52mm filter is more common but 49mm filter is the biggest among the small sized lenses (16mm WR has a 49mm filter thread). By the way, is Hoya any good? I'm accustomed to B+W.
  11. OK, so you need to pan the camera to keep the subject within the zone, of you need to switch to wide tracking mode, right?
  12. Can you change ISO on XT2 to full stop increments? How?
  13. I would be surprised if it doesn't change in afc, that is the whole point of continuous focus tracking. Question is, does afc only track what's inside the box/zone? What will be in focus if the subject moves out of the focus zone while keeping af on pressed?
  14. With an XT2, if I zone focus on a subject and recompose, will the camera maintain tracking the subject when the subject moves outside the focus zone?
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