bffmike

X-Pro2, because it is "Pro" and not just a measly "T". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just chiming in, turn off/on error is gone for me as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"Base" should really be called "Current" since it reflects your current settings. If you select another setting such as C1, you don't switch to that setting, instead those settings are COPIED to your "Base". So you can't switch back to "Base" settings because they don't really exist, it's whatever your current settings are.

Yes but with Fuji it will be beautiful looking crap.

You're not the only one. I like it too. Let's form a club.

Love the gestures, expressions and light!

Especially love the light on that shack in #2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have a source for this?

Because of the size of the 23mm f1.4 R, the end of the lens intrudes into the 35mm bright lines obscuring a small portion on the bottom right of the OVF. It's annoying, but it's why I want Fuji to do a smaller 23mm f2. I don't think the 35mm has this problem as it tapers off on the front end and the bright lines are smaller in the OVF.

The main reason I'd want this lens is so that I can get a 35mm equivalent lens on an X-Pro2 that doesn't block the OVF. WR, R would be gravy.

I would get it exchanged. My dial isn't loose, so if yours is it's a manufacturing problem.

From a street photography perspective, if I'm in a crowd, a party, a festival, or indoors the 23mm is better as it's easier to fill the frame in those situations. If you're just walking on an uncrowded street it becomes more awkward to shove a camera into someone's face, and you may be shooting from across the street, so I find a 50mm better. Of course this is just in general. There are cases where you'd do the exact opposite of what I mention, but I've found those situations to be the exception.

I have a bit of a different opinion. I like cases primarily because of how it changes how the camera feels in my hand. It feels like less of a cold machine and a bit more like an instrument. Also for street, you can pick any color you want as long as it's black The Gariz is nice because its stitching is also black, and the back is completely open and doesn't get in the way of the interface. It is protected less but I'm pretty careful with the camera so it's not really for protection in my case. I do have a protector on my screen for scratches, but I don't mind scratches anywhere else. I mean if your camera doesn't look battered then you're not using it enough, right?

Might be, they're all women in my case.

I have three friends, all non-photographers, that own an Instax, none of them teens. They're fun at parties.

If this is a software-based problem than that's great news! First time I've heard it isn't a hardware problem.

I've said this before but I only use OVF and it's happened on both of my X-Pro2's.

Honestly I can't tell the difference between the reactions I get when shooting an XP2 vs. XT1. However, I do know that the OVF makes me feel more connected to the scene so I tend to be braver. Also, don't discount the XT1/2's flip-out screen. It helps you to be more discreet on the street. However, I prefer a more direct shooting style and tend to want people to know that I'm photographing them. I guess it makes me feel like I'm being less creepy Also the OVF takes some getting use to since it's less precise than the EVF. You have to be willing to let go of some control to like the OVF, but that's something I find quite freeing. E.g., with the EVF I find myself being concerned that I nailed the exposure, whereas since the OVF makes that a bit harder I tend to not worry so much. In those cases where I feel I really need to nail exposure or framing, the EVF is just a toggle away.

Absolutely, I love the OVF. This shot didn't need much anticipation, but usually I'll watch a scene with my left eye and when it goes into the OVF I'll watch with my right eye as the subject crosses into the brightlines. I went from an x100s->X-T1->X-Pro2 and found I was really missing the OVF on the X-T1.

In bright daylight, I'll be at f/11, and either zone focused if I'm aiming at a wall and hyperfocal otherwise (this is with the 23mm). Because of this I don't tend to need to manual focus, and I hardly ever use autofocus. Although I'm not intrusive, I'm pretty shameless when I point my camera; I don't try to hide it. In fact, I try to make it obvious that I'm taking photos in an area and pretty soon people just ignore me. I don't try to be a fly on the wall as I imagine that would make me seem even more creepy. If someone gives me the stink eye, I'll actually engage them in a conversation, which they're never expecting. I have had a few cases where people ask me not to take pictures of them where in fact I wasn't taking pictures of them; they just assumed I was. One of them said that she knew for a fact people were paying me to take pictures of them. Not quite sure how to handle those situations, but maybe next time I'll just take a nice close-up of them so as to make sure they're not liars. As far as aesthetics, I believe street photography is first and foremost a visual art and therefore should strive to incorporate composition, but beyond that it should have emotional impact. I don't prescribe for myself whether subjects should be shot close-up, in the distance, fill a frame, or even be facing the camera. Just as long as it has emotional impact. If there's something on a person that's interesting to me, I try to get that thing, whether it's an arm, their pants color, whatever, to fill the frame instead of shooting their entire body. I look through my viewfinder a lot but try not to press the shutter unless I know I've got a shot. In fact I usually feel pretty proud of myself when I don't take a shot since I have a pretty itchy trigger finger and use to take a bunch of crap where I figured maybe I'd luck out. I usually never luck out. Even if I did luck out, it was luck that got the shot, not my skill. On a related note, I don't take hip shots. Even if I get a good shot with a hip shot, I don't feel satisfied because it was luck, not skill, that got the shot. Also, I use to feel like I was chickening out when I did take hip shots in the past. This is different than, say, using the flip-out screen on an X-T1. You're still composing so I consider it fine, no different than using something like a Rolleiflex. I try to smile and acknowledge people I shoot in an area, or even people I don't shoot but make eye contact with. I continue to smile when I put the camera to my face. The rangefinder-style camera helps here because they can actually see me smile. I dress casual, but not sloppy, and definitely not like a professional photographer. I don't carry a camera bag. I walk around looking at stuff like I'm a tourist. I randomly point my camera at far off buildings to make it seem like I'm shooting them. If anyone asks, I'm a photography student, which for the most part is true. I think that pretty much sums it up. Would love to hear other people's techniques.

Beautiful, especially that first one!

For single images every now and then it works fine. I pretty much use it if I take a photo of someone and they want a copy of it, so I transfer it to my phone and send it. If you're importing to a laptop or desktop, a wire (or dedicated SD slot) will always be much faster than wireless.

I don't use a bag. X-Pro2, 35mm, f/8 & be there.

Nope, naked shutter button here.

I think this is just a Fuji X thing. My X100s did the same thing. Not a big problem though if you remember to give it a sec before you turn it back on.