Immanuel

I don't know how to make suggestions to Fuji, so I'll make this thread. Who knows, if it gets popular, maybe Patrick will start an attention attracting poll? So we have a speed dial going from A to 8000/4000 to 4 to T to B. I have two suggestions for improvement. 1) A and B are hard stops. That is quite annoying when A and T are my two most used modes. Making the dial a continuous controller will make it much faster going from A to B. 2) I suggest an extra setting: TM (T minimum). The difference between T and TM is that TM allows the camera to go faster than the set time. This will be my dream ergonomics for semi-manual shooting in situations where I do not want to go fully manual: Controlling A with the ring on the lens Controlling exposure with the front wheel with compensation dial set to C. Controlling minimum shutter speed with the back wheel. This will be an improvement in a number of situations. One being going from fast moving subjects to still subjects and wanting to maintain the best possible auto ISO settings. Another being going from a wide angle zoom position to a narrow angle zoom position and wanting to avoid camera shake.

That is a shame. That probably makes changing ISO settings a lot faster on the two "low end" cameras.

1) Rangerfinder style (or it is no X-E3) 2) A larger EVF 3) WR 4) A front dial The joystick would be nice, but I want the larger EVF more.

That is fine, if you want to get your fingers up to the upper left part of the camera. I'm wondering how the X-T1 responds to the ISO settings in the Custom Settings. Is it at all possible to set specific ISO settings in the Custom Settings?

I often change my button assignments and custom settings to match the specific situation. At the moment, I use this trick in situations with changing light. This trick involves the custom settings and the top FN button next to the shutter button and using the wheel to choose the desired setting. CS 1: ISO 200, DR 100 CS 2: ISO 400, DR 200 CS 3: ISO 800, DR 400 CS 4: ISO 1600, DR 400 CS 5: ISO 3200, DR 400 CS 6: ISO 6400, DR 400 CS 7: Auto ISO This lets my change ISO settings with minimum movement. I rarely want to adjust ISO in less than full stops. To me, 1/3 stops is a waste of time and flow. When you assign CS to buttons, it will always start at CS 200. So if I am out taking pictures at ISO 200 and suddenly find a situation where I need more dynamic range or more DOF without camera shake or faster shutter speed for a fast moving subject, I'll just press the FN button, turn the wheel one or two clicks and half press the shutter - or take the picture immediately. If I want to go back to ISO 200, I just press the FN button twice (because it starts at CS 1). This works very well on my X-100T and X-E2. Can anyone tell me, if it works with the X-Pro2 and the X-T1 which have hardware dials for ISO? It would be a shame, if you had to make a work around by setting maximum and minimum auto ISO speeds instead of fixed speeds - at least if those cameras behave like mine, where any auto ISO setting will make the camera NOT tell me the predicted shutter speed before I half press the shutter button.

Or he told us, that he thinks he needs to get into the menus to do an update.

Well, Ken's review of the X-100T was one of the things that got me hooked on this camera, when I upgraded from ... my Samsung Galaxy S2. For this, I am thankful. As others have written, his reviews are a mix of useful information (especially to the newcomer) and bullshit. The X-100T review is highly biased. The face detection is not as good, as he makes it out to be (IMO). The exposure is not always dead on (and how could it be?). I also bought the Hoya UV filter based on his recommendations. No, it is not easy to clean. But yes, it makes the camera very coat pocket friendly. Ialso bought Perfectly Clear based on his recommendations (I had a really bad monitor back then). I used it a couple of hours and then never again. I guess when he says the colours are bad for "things", he means it is not compatible with Perfectly Clear when the JPEGs are set to colour +4 and velvia? His talks about what pros want and need must be part of his style of charismatic (to the noob) writing. I am not a pro, but this guy has written that with his Fuji cameras, he sometimes even does not shoot his JPEGs in fine ...

X100T - Japan TCL-X100 - Japan X-E2 - Japan 18-55 mm - Japan 60 mm - Japan

Damien Lovegrove made a bokeh test of these (and some more) lenses. Mind you, this is not a sharpnes comparison, as he states that focus on the woman might not be exactly 100% on all af the shots, and motion blur is possible. Still the 60 mm is definitely sharp where it has to be, and beautifully blurred, where it has to be. http://www.prophotonut.com/2015/01/05/fuji-x-series-portrait-lenses-compared-inc-56-apd-50-140-zoom/ I just ordered it last night as my first prime. I have the X100T with the TCL and the 18-55 zoom for my X-E2. So this was my first personal choice for a prime. My other candidates where the 35mm 1.4 and the 90mm.

In order of appearance: 1) X-T1 size viewfinder in the usual X-E series location 2) X-T1 size viewfinder in the usual X-E series location 3) WR 4) WR These two top my list by far 5) The new sensor 6) Option to assign ISO to a command dial without pressing an FN button first 7) Front command dial wheel 8) Tilt screen

Unless you really want the OVF (I don't use it much, as I prefer to judge exposure before taking the picture) and the leaf shutter (really nice in low noise environments), the X-E2 is in many ways a much better camera. I have both, and the firmware (AF options and auto ISO) is so much better in the X-E2 than in the X100T. I don't have the XF27, but it will make the X-E2 kind of the same size as the X100T, though, it only opens to 2.8 vs the 2.0.

Bigger view finder: Yes, please Joy stick: Yes, please WR: A must I would rather have a smaller screen hight and push the screen all the way to the left IMO, it is a shame the X-Pro2 does not have the big view finder. I would really like a WR camera with the big view finder in range finder style.

Thanks :-) It is a nice overview :-) I would give both cameras green markings for weight. With some lenses the lower weight of the X-E2 will be a plus.

My camera bag is a thick cardboard tube with plastic lids in both ends. This is my first winter with my X100T. I only take it out, when things don't fall from the sky. Before I go into a building, I put the camera back in the tube and leave it there for ½-1 hour.

My prioritised list after 7000+ shots on my X100T within 2½ months (the fantasy shutter counter says 10,300). 1) Weather sealing 2) The new sensor 3) A front control wheel 4) An option to set one or two of the control wheels to deal with one or two parameters without pressing a function button or going into the q-menu first. 5) The wheel should be able to control settings like ISO, shutter speed (the full range not just +/- 2/3 stops) and - most importantly - aperture. I really do NOT like the aperture ring on the X100T. 6) The auto-iso should be able to go to at least 1/500 of a second for daylight street photography, and please bring back the missing steps like 1/50 for low light situations. (I am puzzled why we have so many slooow options instead of faster options). 7) A bigger viewfinder 8) The joy stick looks handy. 9) I take a lot of pictures in unpredictable and highly variable low light scenarios (night life). It would be great to have softcaps on the speed in the auto-iso settings. Softcap 1 sets the absolute minimum shutter speed. Softcap 2 sets the maximum shutter speed before more aperture is added. Many times, I would prefer 1/80@f2.8 over 1/160@f2. But if I set the aperture to 2.8, the next shot might fire at 1/10 of a second. 10) I doubt this will happen, but IF a faster lens is introduced, I'd like to see a soft speed-cap on the aperture in the custom program settings. Again, in the same situations as above, I'd probably prefer f2@iso10,000 over f1.4@iso5.000. If Fuji provides 1 through 6, I will pre-order. Otherwise, I might just wait and see what an eventual X200S will provide.