Immanuel

I have no problem with the q button. However, I find the back control wheel the the by far worst of all the 6 x-series cameras, I've had. Scrolling left is fiddly, as it is unresponsive to turning and more responsive to pressing. My X-E2 had a really nice back control wheel.

Today, I saw this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60mm-f-2-8-2-1-Super-Macro-lens-for-Fujifilm-FX-Mount-Camera-HS50EXR-SL1000-DSLR/152101804083?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43781%26meid%3D94174230a5af46f2aa3ef4559a64a55d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D162491264993&autorefresh=true

Isn't watercolour vegetation mostly related to vegetation being out of focus and/or motion blur from a low shutter speed and/or wind? I don't shoot much green vegetation, but I don't recall having been bothered by the "phenomena" after a total of 30,000+ pictures with my X-100T, X-E2 and X-Pro1 (the later has not seen much use).

I totally agree with this. I would often raise my shutter speed to 1/800 at concerts, if the subject takes a lot of space on the frame. Othervise, I might go down to 1/250 or even 1/180.That is unless I want to capture the feel of motion in IE a drumstick. I find that for my style of shooting, motion blur tends to be much more cribling to perceived sharpness and - more important - emotional expressiveness, than high ISO is. I shoot for fun, and my concert kit would be an X-E2 with either the 35@1.4 or the 60@2.4. I miss some shots with the focusing speed of this kit, but I tend to come home with some fine shots still :-) (edit: I mostly go for a black/white end product)

Press 'Drive' and make sure you have the camera set to single shot.

Hi :-) How do you like the new firmware? Do you recommend it? Does it depend on which lenses you use?

SRGB is 8 bit (per colour channel = 24 bit all in all). The same goes for ARGB. There is a bigger spread between the bits with ARGB (the range is wider), but the resolution is not higher. This is often misunderstood because "extended range" sounds better. Here, you can read a bit about it: https://fstoppers.com/pictures/adobergb-vs-srgb-3167 The author says you can not go from SRGB to ARGB. If you shoot RAW, that is not an issue, as RAW is neither SRGB not ARGB.

Your white balance is way off.

If you see the build in thumb rest on the X-T1 and the X-T2, the one on the X-T2 is slightly diagonal. I have two thumb grips and both have straight 90 degree curves. I really think ergonomics would improve by tilting the curve (maybe) 15 degrees.

Here is a chance to get one of the rare third party lenses on sale: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00F3SWV74/ref=gb1h_img_m-2_0007_a1fa00d2?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=M741CVB466XZ9X3FWHCJ&pf_rd_i=5457338031&pf_rd_p=689310007 319 € for a few hours. 35 mm 1.4 autofocus with double the weight and reversed ergonomics: The aperture ring is on the filter side of the lens, and goes the opposite way of Fujinon lenses. I don't know which way the focus ring goes. I really hope they only made a small batch of those, because it has some fierce competition. I have the Fujinon 1.4 and absolutely no interest in this "SLR Magic" lens, but I thought it was appropriate to share it here in this niche thread anyway.

Here is one example of a fraud Fuji seller: https://www.amazon.de/gp/offer-listing/B01I5LE51A/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

Do you want the lens now, or do you want to wait till some time next year?

Sometimes new Fuji gear comes up at very low prices. If you go to look at the list of dealers who sells the gear, you will usually see that the ones with crazy low prices asks you to write you an email before ordering. Don't go there.

Quite a few people have stated that they like the bokeh from the 60 mm a little better - within their common aperture range. Thanks for yet another Sunday post :-)

I am not sure of this. Many people like statements which makes choosing easy. Absolute statements makes choosing easier.

Ken needs to learn the words 'mostly' and 'sometimes'. His use of the word 'always' is not always that truthful.

Even though an OVF design has some distinct advantages when it comes to high speed burst shooting, Fujifilm seems to be hell bend on selling the story of the X-T2 as superior for fast shooting - even at the cost of functionality for the X-Pro2.

I just got a used X-Pro1, and there are already some areas, where I prefer it over the X-100T I just sold and my X-E2. 1) Auto-DR includes. This is huge to me. It makes for a much more fluent shooting experience. I can set the camera to aperture priority or shutter priority, and it will take care of the rest. With my X-E2, I also have to make sure to switch between auto and DR 400. And if I don't go back, I get an ISO 800 shot in a situation where ISO 200 would have been so much better. The X-Pro1 takes some of the stress away, and I like that. I really don't get why this flexibility was taken away in the newer cameras. 2) No accidental shutter speed adjustments. The three cameras behave very differently when it comes to shutter speed adjustments. The X-Pro1 is the most stable. I do not press the arrow buttons by accident. So if I am in a situation where a fixed shutter speed is important, the X-Pro1 is the best choice. If I want to adjust the shutter speed, the X-E2 in the T-setting is usually the better choice. The X-100T lacks the flexibility of the X-E2 and the stability of the X-Pro1. It was not that uncommon for me to change shutter speed by accident on the X-100T ... and sometimes on the X-E2 too. 3) In my opinion, the X-Pro1 EVF is better in good light than the EVFs on the other two cameras. It has a lower resolution, but size just matters, and IMO the EVFs are too small on the X-100T and the X-E2. 4) Only three View Modes. I prefer this. Changing view modes on the X-100T and the X-E2 is more cumbersome with the four options. Some would argue that Viewfinder Only with eye detection saves some battery. It is not worth it to me. When the camera is not in front of my eyes, the viewfinder will be on most of the time anyway due to close proximity to me. Then when I lift the camera to shoot, the viewfinder turns off and then has to turn on again when I place the camera in front of my eyes. The other cameras also have their advantages, but the X-pro1 has some things going for it, and having tried auto-DR with DR 400 included actually makes a potential purchase of an X-Pro2 or X-T2 less attractive. These are just early impressions, but for now I find them to be relevant points when assessing the camera and doing inevitable comparisons with newer models.

Hi Adam :-) I've been reading your story for a couple of weeks. I have always been intrigued by the X-Pro1, and also about the old XF 35. So on eBay, I found a used set containing an X-Pro1 with that lens and an XF 18. Your tips about the X-Pro1 are very useful, and your writing is inspiring. I very rarely cared much for the OVF on my X-100T, but I will give it a go with the XF 18 and zone focusing. Thanks :-)

I guess a start would be to add angle degrees to the novel written on the front of the lenses. Not making a big fuzz about it - just letting it sneak in as luxury information. Yesterday's luxury is today's necessity, so the "feature" might just spread.

I recommend you to enjoy your X-E2 for a while. If you find that you: - don't use T-setting for selecting shutter speed - don't use cluster (Fuji calls it zone) focussing - don't use auto-ISO settings with minimum speed above 1/125 of a second then consider the X-100T. Fuji has left it behind the other cameras with a lack of firmware updates. ~~~~~~~~ Edit. I misread it as if you wanted to buy the X-E2. The X-100T will be even more behind the X-T2.

This could also have to do with not being good at exploiting the opportunities of a zoom. I am like that too. I do not enjoy zooming with that lens. I have no idea if I would enjoy it with another zoom. It might in part be a tactile thing.

Wow, is this the "guide to breaking the law and cheating the system/country likely pays for your roads and other necessities" thread?

A follow up on my suggestion about a smaller screen to accommodate the bigger EVF. I imagine a lower screen - not i less wide screen. A change in aspect ratio can give the option to put some of the shooting info (like ISO, SS and A) next to the image as opposed to on top of the image. Yes, the image will still be slightly smaller, but if we skip the tilt, it might make a thinner frame possible.