Immanuel

I have no problem with the q button. However, I find the back control wheel the the by far worst of all the 6 x-series cameras, I've had. Scrolling left is fiddly, as it is unresponsive to turning and more responsive to pressing. My X-E2 had a really nice back control wheel.

Today, I saw this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60mm-f-2-8-2-1-Super-Macro-lens-for-Fujifilm-FX-Mount-Camera-HS50EXR-SL1000-DSLR/152101804083?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43781%26meid%3D94174230a5af46f2aa3ef4559a64a55d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D162491264993&autorefresh=true

Isn't watercolour vegetation mostly related to vegetation being out of focus and/or motion blur from a low shutter speed and/or wind? I don't shoot much green vegetation, but I don't recall having been bothered by the "phenomena" after a total of 30,000+ pictures with my X-100T, X-E2 and X-Pro1 (the later has not seen much use).

I totally agree with this. I would often raise my shutter speed to 1/800 at concerts, if the subject takes a lot of space on the frame. Othervise, I might go down to 1/250 or even 1/180.That is unless I want to capture the feel of motion in IE a drumstick. I find that for my style of shooting, motion blur tends to be much more cribling to perceived sharpness and - more important - emotional expressiveness, than high ISO is. I shoot for fun, and my concert kit would be an X-E2 with either the 35@1.4 or the 60@2.4. I miss some shots with the focusing speed of this kit, but I tend to come home with some fine shots still :-) (edit: I mostly go for a black/white end product)

Press 'Drive' and make sure you have the camera set to single shot.

Hi :-) How do you like the new firmware? Do you recommend it? Does it depend on which lenses you use?

SRGB is 8 bit (per colour channel = 24 bit all in all). The same goes for ARGB. There is a bigger spread between the bits with ARGB (the range is wider), but the resolution is not higher. This is often misunderstood because "extended range" sounds better. Here, you can read a bit about it: https://fstoppers.com/pictures/adobergb-vs-srgb-3167 The author says you can not go from SRGB to ARGB. If you shoot RAW, that is not an issue, as RAW is neither SRGB not ARGB.

Your white balance is way off.

If you see the build in thumb rest on the X-T1 and the X-T2, the one on the X-T2 is slightly diagonal. I have two thumb grips and both have straight 90 degree curves. I really think ergonomics would improve by tilting the curve (maybe) 15 degrees.

Here is a chance to get one of the rare third party lenses on sale: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00F3SWV74/ref=gb1h_img_m-2_0007_a1fa00d2?smid=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=M741CVB466XZ9X3FWHCJ&pf_rd_i=5457338031&pf_rd_p=689310007 319 € for a few hours. 35 mm 1.4 autofocus with double the weight and reversed ergonomics: The aperture ring is on the filter side of the lens, and goes the opposite way of Fujinon lenses. I don't know which way the focus ring goes. I really hope they only made a small batch of those, because it has some fierce competition. I have the Fujinon 1.4 and absolutely no interest in this "SLR Magic" lens, but I thought it was appropriate to share it here in this niche thread anyway.

Here is one example of a fraud Fuji seller: https://www.amazon.de/gp/offer-listing/B01I5LE51A/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

Do you want the lens now, or do you want to wait till some time next year?

Sometimes new Fuji gear comes up at very low prices. If you go to look at the list of dealers who sells the gear, you will usually see that the ones with crazy low prices asks you to write you an email before ordering. Don't go there.

Quite a few people have stated that they like the bokeh from the 60 mm a little better - within their common aperture range. Thanks for yet another Sunday post :-)

I am not sure of this. Many people like statements which makes choosing easy. Absolute statements makes choosing easier.