davehutch

Considering the fact that the X-E2 is now an excellent option to the X-T10 and the X-T1, I figured this would be a good thread to let people know I'm selling my X-E2 body, case and thumbrest. Please see classifieds for details

Probably best to make a new thread with your question, as it's purely an operational query and nothing to do with the spread sheet I've created

Thanks. I've copied the info into a new tab on my file so you can now delete. Is all the info there for both cameras or do I need to check the X-E2? I can check my X-E2 over the weekend if necessary

Thanks JRphoto. Fuji have updated their specs on both cameras so I've re-pasted the shutter info from their website. I'll have a trawl through the rest over the weekend. yukosteel, would you like to put that list together and I'll add it to the spread sheet?

I have both cameras, I thought it might be a good idea to keep hold of my X-E2 body and sure enough, now fw 4.0 is available, I'm really glad I did. It occurred to me that the two cameras are now not so different to each other, so I started putting together a comparison spreadsheet of specs, using the latest fw versions for both cameras. Hopefully, if you're in two minds about whether to keep your X-E2, upgrade to an X-T1 or maybe even buy a second-hand X-E2 instead of an X-T1, this might help. Let me know if I got anything wrong, but I did most of this using the info on Fuji's website so it should be accurate https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NT0gidgtP6nT7681vRpSJgh34ShverMhbqycOZGydCs/edit?usp=sharing Dave

I have the Graphite, so went with a clear/multicolour set for £1.99 Do you wear glasses with the new eyepiece?

Good idea! I have a full "vajazzle" set on it's way to me as we speak

Picture the edge of the EC dial closest to your face. Move that edge to the right, the EC indicator moves to the right (increase)

With great difficulty!

Although, that doesn't actually cure the problem of cL or cH shooting. Yes, Pre-Focus constantly adjusts focus and exposure, but there's absolutely no chance of using it for sports photography that way. In order to rattle off three or four shots of something moving, let's say for the sake of argument, runners moving in and out of shadows down a road or through a wood, you have to hold the shutter button down. If the exposure changes during that time...basically...tough! I checked my little Canon G15 and on Continuous focus mode, moving the camera around with the shutter half-pressed continually adjusts the focus AND the exposure, which is exactly the way it should work. I'm sure my old Nikon worked that way as well. Blimey, this is a £1K camera body! I can't believe there aren't more people complaining about this?!

Exactly this issue. Posted on DPReview but after easing a few more posts around t'interweb, it seems the X Series have always done this. In my case, I also tested by half-pressing on a dark area, moving to a bright area then taking a series at 3fps. They were all too bright but slowly adjusted the exposure on each shot. Basically this is a big deal, for the following reason: Let's say your tracking a subject such as a car, horse, runner and waiting until they get to the right spot in your composition. If the lighting conditions are't the same as when you first locked on, the result will be badly over or under exposed. I need to do more testing but my cats aren't obliging at the moment I checked on my X-E2 and the result is the same, so at least we know it isn't down to the new firmware. Oh yes, Face Detection is off and Mechanical Shutter only is selected. Have a read of this and let me know what you think: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/56070926 http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/53246706