Dis

Overall I agree. Personally I switch ISO quite rarely but sometimes I need to do this fast. Thus current ISO a dial design is perfect for me. But that's just me. I even consider weather I would or would not like the shutter dial lock in every position as opposed to A-lock only. Unfortunately I find X-Pro1's lock quite hard to be used and I don't like it.Talking about issues we can't be sure there are no problems unique for X-T10. They could be hidden or long lasting ones.

This lens is OK optically. It's light and built better than other consumer plastic lenses. Nevertheless it still feels cheap after XF lenses. The AF is silent and quite slow but so is 55-200's one. This lens extends a lot while zooming so it's a real air pump. One can feel the strong air flow through the viewfinder. Thus in theory this lens can push dust to the sensor due to the lack of sealing. I haven't seen this in practice though. To me the most serious flaw is the lack of controls. I don't like fuji cameras rear and front dials so I rarely use them when shooting other lenses but with 50-230 front dial is the only way to adjust the aperture. There are two possibilities to switch from manual aperture to automatic. You weather have to go all way down to f/22 with the front wheel wich is quite slow way. Or you can waste one Fn button for this. The OIS switch is even worse as the only way to change it is burried in the menues. In the end 18-135 has replaced my 50-230 as its marginally heavier but can be used as a single lens when I need to stay really light which is quite often requirement for shoots I use slow zoom lenses. I found out that I need 135-230 reach quite rarely so it's OK for me. 18-135 allows to shoot faster thanks to it's controls and much snappier AF. It also adds weather sealing unlike 50-200. The botton line: this lens is quite good and cheap but you have to be sure you're OK with really slow shooting and plastic feeling.

You people forget the controls. X-T1 has an ISO direct dial which is essential for me and some others. X-T10 seems to be cheaper made. In fact i don't like the quality after X-T1. Having larger EVF is a serious advantage too.

I don't have the samples but TO ME every single review of these lenses independently shows the same. 50-140 has neutral bokeh just like canon 70-200/4. Nothing like 70-200/2.8. XF 90 has wonderful bokeh just like canon 135/2. Thus if you are after creamy buttery bokeh, 90 is worlds better.

Pancake, 100g, internal zoom, OIS, WR, AUTO-WORLDS-BEST-PHOTO button.

Rotory stepper motor usually makes no noise while holding the position thanks to its construction independently of exterior forces. As I understand linear stepper motors should be the same. But I am not sure since I've not worked with them. It's unlikely but LM may be non-stepper type. Morover the noise could be produced not by AF motor at all as we don't know this fore sure.

"Linear motor" says nothing about the motor type. Stepper motors usually require constant voltage to hold the position. Nevertheless the usually make no noise during this process. I am not really sure but this could be some kind of linear stepper motor habit. Unfortunately I've never worked with linear stepper motors.

That's what I think. It powers the motor to hold the AF group position.

IMHO 50-140 bokeh is so bad, OK, neutral, I would never take it for an outdoor portrait while this new 90 is wonderful.

These lenses and 56 one are noisy while focusing while 18-135 creates constant noise even in MF and OIS off. While I am shooting indoors with no other sounds it's strange to hear a constant noise a camera makes. Once again - not a real issue but an interesting nuance.

The problem is fuji app cannot change the exposure mode. In order to be able to change SS or aperture via the app, these parameters have to be set off auto values. In other words switch the camera to manual mode. This has to be done before connecting the camera to the app as the camera don't react to any on-camera button while it's connected to the app.

If you see sharpness difference between 90 and 50-140 you're crazy pixel peeper. They are both super sharp. Backgrounds on 50-140 are not smoother. It's 1.5 times longer at 140mm but 1.5 times slower thus background smoothering is about the same. But 50-140 has pretty neutral bokeh while 90's one is positive so I'd say 90mm bokeh is a little bit smoother.

Nevertheless you won't take too many primes for travelling and you don't have time to swap lenses in street photography. I'd say 35 is unnecessary if you already have 23 and 50. When I need two fast primes for fast photography I take X100S and XF 56

35 is the same as 23 until you need highest possible results and compose carefully. IMO you don't need anything else as an addition to 18-55 and 23/2 for these styles of photography in 18-55 range. If you're OK with canon FD lens you don't need 56 either. If you insist on 35mm focal length you can consider TCL-X100 which is even cheaper. Thus the option left is 90 which is a great lens.

The problem is not with the variable aperture itself. The more is better so larger aperture at some focal lengths is a bonus. One has switch to manual to benefit from constant exposure so there will be no aperture change anyway. My point is to get size and weight advantage lowering the aperture to constant value over full zoom range. I expect f/4 zoom to be smaller and lighter than f/2.8-4 zoom. Weight and size advantage could be traded for construction quality, better AF motors, better OIS, WR or whatever engineers manage to achieve.

That's strange to compare 56 vs 90. I need both for different purposes. So choose the focal length first and consider 56 STD (unofficial standard version name) vs 56 APD or 90 vs 85. Better both). IMO even 56mm STD and APD versions are different purpose. If I have a load of money I would have both. APD is better for stills outdoors in daylight while STD is better for fast shooting and low light scenarios. I have STD due to it's versatility. For long reach I use Nikkor 105/2 DC. It's great lens but I have hard times not to waste my frames with out of focus pictures as the DOF is really shallow. With an AF lens I usually refocus quite often to be sure to be in focus all the time but with MF lens I forget to do this sometimes. Moreover even though my X-T1 features large EVF and great MF assistance, it's not that easy to focus that precisely. X-Pro1 is even worse due to worse MF assistance and smaller EVF. Thus with a long fast lens like these I would recommend to take an XF 90/2 due to it's AF ability. I've tried it in a local store and have seen many samples and I'm sure it's a fantastic lens. I can't sell my Nikkor until march 2016 but as soon as this date comes I'll switch to 90/2 immediately. One guy have told me that he prefers Rokinon/Samyang 85mm T/1.5 Nikon F mount cinema lens over f/1.4 version for Fuji-X via an adapter due to it's superior ergonomics. Personally I can tell nothing about this lens but if you choose to go MF you should probably consider this option too.

I don't agree. It's great when a professional publish EXIF data so amateurs could learn what settings they should choose in different situations to achieve the best results. Topic-wise. IMO the only camera that deserves X-T1-like FW update is X100T. Sorry X-E2 users. I'm an X100S user so I am off the boat too. X-E2 can get moderate update with little features that are easy to implement and don't require much hardware resources (I expect X-E2 is already near it's hardware limits). Even the Kaizen has it's limits. BTW if X100T will really get zone AF system I'll upgrade from S to T.

I use auto ISO when I shoot some casual things and I'm not after maximum result. Otherwise I fix the ISO so I wouldn't need to check it all the time and could concentrate on what I am shooting.

It's the first time I want to take the picture of my staff. It's great you've done it. I hope this will help finding your gear.

I guess you used to be a Nikon user if you expect incompatibility problems). Fuji X is very young system. There are no compatibility problems yet. XF 18-135 is great lens. Much better than canikon's crappy plastic superteles. It's sharp and has quite fast AF. IMO the only gotcha is that in 110-135mm focal lengths the zoom ring is much tighter than in the rest of the range. In fact it's too tight. Not a big deal. While zooming in one has just to remember that he has some more range after the lens has reached the stop by feel. There is also some noise during power on even with OIS off and MF mode. I guess it just powers the AF motor to hold the position. It's not a problem as the noise is very quite and in fact can be heard in total silence.

IMO ACR RAW conversion is very similar to in camera JPEGs thus I prefer RAW. Nevertheless I like getting great colors from JPEGs when I don't want to waste time with computer.

I've tried a sample yesterday. The rattling was present but it's not as serious as I thought. Also this only happens when lens is turned from face up and down at ange more than 45 degrees which is not very often action while carrying. The thing I didn't like was huge AF ring range. It takes more than a full turn to get from infinity to close focus. This is definitely made for precision so one has to get used to it. Maybe I'll change my opinion after using. I really liked the aperture ring. IMO it has the perfect stiffness. It's both hard to kick off position and easy to operate.

That's why I buy products after some time they are out. I hope Fuji will do something with this so late samples will be better. They could not officially admit the problem but quitly fix it just like they did with x-t1's back buttons.

What's the point of having faster wide end? At shorter focal lengths one can shoot with longer shutter speeds. It's the tele end that need to be faster but nobody does that. Constant aperture lets you lock ISO and SS in constant lighting. That's important for lot's of people.

All fuji WR lenses are better than non-WR ones. Of course that's due to they are just new models. Nevertheless I want all new lenses to be WR)