milandro

the Helios will show little swirl if not used with a lens turbo speed booster of some description because on an aps-c sensor, as oppose to a Full Frame one, you get less of the image circle and the inner part has little swirl to speak of. There are many helios types and several have been doctored or cleaned by people who might have not put them back properly. My advise ( having had a few, the first on my original Zenith-E in 1976) is to buy a later copy. Most will have single coating some ( very rare) even feature multi layer coating, as opposed to early ones with no coating at all. Later models have a less than circular aperture with less blades but the swirl is really more evident fully open so it hardly matters. In order to see the swirl you really need to have some highlights in the portion that isn’t sharp.

Thanks, although this is not exactly a “ new” accessory...the mirror which mounts in front of a lens has been around for years and years! I have seen it ever since I started taking pictures and I promise It is a long time ago, I bought my first reflex in 1976 and I had been already using my father’s cameras prior to that. There are even Iphone models now. But it is a gimmick. Pentax also made one in the ’70, these are ads one of the mid ’60 and the other the mid ’70.

Welcome to the forum, perhaps you have misinterpreted the spirit of this thread dedicated to adapting lenses by means of focal reducers. A regular metabone adapter like the one that you are talking about, without lens elements inside, is a very different animal than the speed booster which is at least $600! If you go thought the pics that I and others have shown you see manual lenses adapted with focal reducers. Good luck with your endeavor.

no. I meant that I rarely re-arrange the basic configuration of the camera which for me is automatic with aperture priority. The most common changes like the focus point , the ISO sensitivity, automatic exposure correction, are rarely made on the LCD but directly in the EVF.

X-E2 & X-T1 with a previous history of X-E1 and X-M1 and also a X10 ( neat little thing).

the kit x pro 1 + 27mm + 18mm is great value for money at €849

the cheapest moderate wideangle which is closest to the 23mm and won’t break the bank is the 27mm pancake... if you can live with the aperture being set via the wheel at the back of the camera, if not than you need to consider much more expensive lenses such as the 23mm f1.4 but it is a very large lens. Over here ( but they would ship of course) X pro 1 are often sold with a kit of the 27mm and the 18mm at a pittance. Good luck! http://www.kamera-express.nl/product/12206099/fujifilm-x-pro1-xf-18mm-f-2-0-xf-27mm-f-2-8-lc-xpro1-luxe-lederen-tas/ http://www.foka.nl/fujifilm-x-pro-1-xf-18mm-f-2-r-xf-27mm-f-2-8-lc-xpro1 http://www.fotokonijnenberg.nl/fujifilm-x-pro1-18mm-f2-27mm-f2-8-lc-xpro1-5

two test pics of a Meyer Optyc Görliz Orestor 50mm 1.8 at 1.8 with the lens turbo I am really impressed by the rendering of the not in focus part of the image ( what this days is called bokeh, ...ah the bokeh! I always make fun of the word because it was completely unknown to me for years and years and not everybody uses it!). I have added a last image made with an adapter without optics for comparison purposes.

I am not sure that we are allowed to create polls. For now, it appears that polls can only be created by the staff. I too gave the answer Eye level rarely access menus. I am quite convinced that this is a common trait to all those who basically tend to use the digital cameras as they always used their analog ones. I also tent to leave a lot of distracting information out of the “ picture”.

Many 23mm owners prefer not to use the standard petal hood which comes with the lens because of its size. Several “ reviewers” on line have opted for a screw-in cylindrical hood with a 62mm diameter and a depth of only 2 or 3cm. Although it might be argued that when shooting with the sun right in front of you this wouldn’t protect as much as the standard hood, I think this is a very suitable solution making your lens more compact. There are previous threads on hood replacements even on this forum and on other sources. This video (not mine), talks specifically of this situation @https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYptwW8Jyvw

what happened in 2008? Some technical debacle which made impossible for mirrorless Fuji ( born after that) to have access to good quality materials? I have no idea because I have two left hands when it comes to repairing things like this but disemboweling a Fuji and transplanting the various organs into another working camera seems to be way more complex than replace a part. However, where to find the part would be a some serious concern. Would Fuji sell the part? I doubt! You would probably need a donor camera, but there must be not to many broken X-T1 around. Good luck!

If you have the technical capabilities to make a transplantation of the entrails of a Fujifilm X-t1 into a Leica and as a result have a working camera, repairing the SD would be a joke in comparison!

R.I.P.

thanks, good luck with your endeavor.

Thanks, interesting, but synchronizing a camera to a projector is way to complicated rig for me. Although I can really see it would serve the purpose to digitize large amounts of slides in a very short time. I am interested in a different type of slide copying. The particular use of a those tubes which one attaches to the front of a lens as in the ones shown above on a Fuji 18-55mm zoom or the other tubes which can be attached to the camera directly albeit with an adapter. I could easily buy one of these other types, a panagor zoom slide duplicator, they have a zoom lens inside and attach directly the the camera body. The question is whether they could be used at all on an aps-c since the format is smaller than the original format ( 24mm x 36mm) for which these were made. I also have a lens turbo adapter which might help. But, since you haven’t done this yet I guess I’ll have to wait or try it myself.

Thank you

the problem is exactly the “ good selling “ line. Is it selling? Throughout the introduction of the X-T10 the sales of the X-E2 ( so I am told from the shop where I buy my things) fell to an all time low. For the time being they are now selling the stock of X-E2 because of the new firmware but the X-E2S is not selling like hot cakes, actually is not selling at all! Only when the X-E2 stock will be completely sold, maybe, the X-E2S would start selling.

the difference is not so mach in the resolution ( which is the same between the X-E2 and the X-T1 2.36 dot) but the magnification 0.77 for the X-T1 and 0.64 for the X-E2. The X-Pro 2 has, as far as I can tell, also a magnification in the same range as the X-E2 has and an equal resolution. In other words the image that you are peeking at in the EVF loos smaller in the X-E2 ( and I suppose the X pro 2) than it does on the X-T1.

good luck! Enjoy your new camera!

Cheers drsnake this confirms, once again, that Fuji at central level is way more customer satisfaction oriented than the periphery is and this has been my experience here on the FR forum time and time again. You see it takes a long time, much energy and a lot of money to create a bond with a customer and for something stupid as 4 screws you would lose all that time energy and money in an instant when you disappoint one or more customers. I am sure that more of these matters could be solved this way. That’s why it would be good to have an independent mediation institute or person. As I said, a sort of ombuds-person. Of course all of this has to happen within reason, if you yourself have caused a problem which didn’t depend upon, for example, these screws being exceptionally prone to get unscrewed ( as witnessed by several others with the same problem) then one shouldn’t expect to get free repairs but this was most certainly not your case and I am happy to have played a minor contribution in stimulating you to write to Fuji which, most certainly, has to be commended to have done the right thing.

Great! well done!

Obviously there are different needs. I am not sure that the co-ordinates would offer me any “ information” on where a picture was taken. But we are all different.

Yellerz, perhaps you have mistaken my intent, my comment was a not at all offensive. Quite the contrary, there are many ways to solve a problem and yours might be just as good or even better than mine. Whatever floats your boat, great! It meant: if this is what you like then it is great! Perhaps you are not familiar with this term? I thought this was used in the UK as much as in other parts of the world. I don’t need to apologize but there was an is no hostility in my answer to you. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=whatever+floats+your+boat https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/whatever_floats_your_boat

ignorance is bliss

Historically I’ve seen that the Japanese company has been more responsive than the local distributors. I was joking some time ago placing my candidature to become the Fuji ombudsman but now I start thinking that the company should really appoint an independent “ super partes” person or authority to deal with the many caused of discontent like this, rather than the local shops or distributors.