lauriebrett

One thing that is bugging me about my X-T5 is that I keep accidentally pressing the front command dial in. This brings up an options screen that totally blanks out the viewfinder. It has happened when I’m trying to capture ‘people moments’ - that passing smile or expression and it. Is REALLY annoying! I can see how to disable the command dial wheel actions but not the press in button action. Is there a way? If not please Fuji, give us the option to disable the button action! Should be a simple software fix? Anyone else have this issue?

What camera have you upgraded from? Bear in mind that a 24mpx pic will look a lot less sharp than a 16 or 12 Mpx pic when both are viewed at 100%. To me the first two don’t look too bad for handheld pics, at 100% you’re looking at part of an image which would be over 30” across, which you wouldn’t normally view nearly as close up. The third pic looks like it has some movement for sure.

Those that do video or sport seem to have wanted this so fair enough but there's nothing of much interest for me (mostly landscape pics). It'll be interesting to see how well it sells.

That's an idea but I thought it might cause vignetting?

I may have to go with the 23mm f1.4 just so I can use my filters! Don't want to get a new set just for one lens.

I've been considering getting a 23mm f2, but I don't think I would be able to use my Lee filter kit as they don't list a 43mm adaptor ring. I can't see a step up ring to 67mm as I have on my 14mm lens either. Anyone have a solution?

Making the sensor much bigger would Result in a bigger camera, I like the current size and design. What I'd like to see is (a) weatherproofing, ( a few more pixels; 16Mpx would be fine. If they could make a totally waterproof version (Olympus tough style) I'd buy it yesterday.

For holidays I use two bodies with 18-135 on one, 14mm on the other. I'd recommend the 18-135 for its range, weather proofing and optical stabilisation. It's plenty sharp too.

5x4 aspect ratio in camera. Highlight exposure mode. Extended long exposure times e.g. 1 minute, 4 mins, 16mins, 60mins. Hyperfocal distance option for function button/s.

5x4 aspect ratio in camera. Highlight exposure mode. Extended long exposure times e.g. 1 minute, 4 mins, 16mins, 60mins. Hyperfocal distance option for function button/s.

Yes I too had hoped the new 23mm would be more pancake sized. I'd rather have an f2.8 version similar in size to the 27mm or 18mm.

This sounds like a really exciting piece of software. I'm not at all programming literate and the install for Mac sounds daunting for me. If you make a easy to install version for Mac I would be happy to pay for it. Good luck though, I hope this takes off.

Fully agree about ability to take filters. 62mm thread would be ideal for me, but whaterever as long as I can fit my Lee 100mm holder. I'm not fussed about OIS, it would be smaller without.

Please Fuji, would you add the option to set aspect ratio to 5 x 4? It's my favourite format especially for vertical landscape shots. Of course I can crop it in post but it would be nice to be able to compose precisely in 5 x 4 at the time of releasing the shutter.

Yes this seems to be a bug which happens regardless of the flash unit used. Using face detection with RAW always seems to produce a pre-flash and maybe half a second delay before the shutter fires. Two options to fix this, (1) turn off face detection, (2) enable RAW + jpg. No obvious reason why Fuji couldn't fix this. Come on Fuji!

I'd prefer a fixed 8 or 10mm with proper depth of field scale, since I have (and love) the 14mm. I suspect the two would weigh less than the 8-16mm f2.8 if it has OIS.

Quanto, yes I know the photos are only affected in non-RAW settings, but the viewfinder appearance is affected with either RAW or jpg settings.

I think I've solved it. When I first set the camera up I had set image quality / shadows to + 2. I thought that would lighten shadows but it appears to darken them. I've now set it to minus 2 and the EVF appears much better. Since I always shoot raw, it doesn't effect the photos.

Yes this is a bummer. I'm hoping Nissin will issue a firmware update.

Had my xt2 for 2 days and loving it. However the EVF seems very contrasty compared to the xt1. Tried manual brightness instead of auto, and tried different film modes, still seems contrasty. Anyone else finding this? Is there something else I've missed in settings?

Amen to that. Or a nice compact ultra wide non-fish eye, 8 to 10mm. To go with my lovely XF14mm.

Here's a suggestion for Fujifilm to consider as a firmware update to X series cameras. For street shooting, I'd like to be able to quickly set my lens to hyper focal distance or at least to cover a range which would obviate the need for focussing. I would imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to add a menu item (which could be applied to a function button), which sets each lens to it's hyper focal distance. Alternatively (and this might be better still) they could have all cameras set up so that when you turn on the camera with manual focus selected, it sets it to hyper focal distance or the last manual setting used. At the moment if you turn the camera off it doesn't remember focus settings when turned on again. This is annoying and one of the few things which bug me about these superb cameras. How about it Fuji? For reference I use an X-T1 and an X-E1.

Firmware update wanted is for the camera (all X models) to retain a manual focus setting when it's switched off - or powered down on standby. I find it most frustrating that I have to reset hyperlocal distance every time the camera is switched off. Anyone know of a solution to this?

I only want an EVF - a nice big one like the X-T1. However I do like the eyepiece position on the X-Pro or XE cameras better. So if Fuji could do an EVF only X-Pro2 ('X-Pro2E')? with a X-T1 sized EVF I'd buy it right away. Otherwise I'll still buy an X-T2.

Hi Hugh I think it depends on what you'll use it for. Probably the Nikon would be better for sport and movie, otherwise I would go with the Fuji every time. I'm in the process of moving wholesale from a full frame Nikon D800 set up, and I would say the image quality of the Fuji is nearly as good at low ISO and better at high ISO. The image noise on Fuji's X-trans sensor is very even and more like film grain. Do the comparison on DP review and you'll see what I mean. As regards handling and user-satisfaction, there are two camps, some prefer the optical viewfinder and the menu's and dials of Nikon, others (like myself) prefer the EVF and dials and buttons of the Fuji. For me the X-T1 in particular (I also have an X-E1) is a REALLY nice camera to use. The electronic viewfinder has (for me) many benefits: (i) Real-time preview of exposure, colour etc. through the viewfinder - the Nikon live view is only on the rear screen (ii) No mirror means you don't need mirror lock for tack sharp photos (iii) Long sighted spectacle wearers can see all the menus through the (dioptre adjusted) viewfinder, so they don't need to wear specs when on a shoot. (iv) Using a heavy ND filter (e.g. Lee Big Stopper), one can still see, focus and compose through the viewfinder, and there is no risk of light leakage through the prism as there is in an SLR. (v) Instant preview of the photo you just taken - through the EVF. Apart from the EVF the X-T1 is a really nice camera to use. The Nikon would have faster auto focus if that's important, but the X-T1 is no slouch. Laurie www.lauriebrett.co.uk