Jump to content

strange noise with FUJINON LENS XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR

udo

By udo
in Fuji X-T3 / Fuji X-T30

 Share

Recommended Posts

udo Newbie

udo

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm using the FUJINON LENS XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR on a XT-3. Have both for a few months and been very happy, until a few days ago.  After I switch the camera on, I get this wizz sound on the lense that doesn't stop. It wasn't always like that, so I wonder whether there's a problem with the lense, or whether I accidentally changed a camera setting that triggers this. My apologies in advance if this is an inappropriate or otherwise stupid question. I'm trying to avoid having to trek back to the dealership (different city etc etc), unless there's genuine cause for concern. Any comments would be much appreciated.

Edited by udo
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
pete1959 Collaborator

pete1959

Posted
Posted

That lens, by the way, always has a very soft electronic sound, even when "IS"  turned off.

I can only hear it in a quiet room when I put it to my ears.

I believe that's something about "floating glass elements" that are engaged when powered on. You can hear the elements clunk about inside when the lens is powered off ( that's also normal).

But, you indicated it's a much louder sound and you just noticed, it so I'm guessing it's "PRE-AF ON"...

If it's simply the soft noise of the lens then that is normal.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Snsokstan Apprentice

Snsokstan

Posted
Posted (edited)

Pete1959,

I also hear a whirring noise from my 18-135 and 18-55 Fujinon lenses with my ear up close in a quiet room. The sound disappears when the camera sleeps or is powered off. It sounds like a tiny motor.

  • I have Pre-AF off
  • I have OIS off.
  • I am in "S" on the M-C-S focus switch

I've had this camera for 2 years and started noticing a more rapid battery drain. I wondered if something is not set right or working right.    You mentioned some other ideas earlier in this forum.

 

Thanks

 

Stan

Edited by Snsokstan
typo
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
pete1959 Collaborator

pete1959

Posted
Posted
On ‎4‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 12:41 PM, Snsokstan said:

Pete1959,

I also hear a whirring noise from my 18-135 and 18-55 Fujinon lenses with my ear up close in a quiet room. The sound disappears when the camera sleeps or is powered off. It sounds like a tiny motor.

  • I have Pre-AF off
  • I have OIS off.
  • I am in "S" on the M-C-S focus switch

I've had this camera for 2 years and started noticing a more rapid battery drain. I wondered if something is not set right or working right.    You mentioned some other ideas earlier in this forum.

 

Thanks

 

Stan

Hi Stan:

RE: Batteries:

"Face Detect">On , if left "ON", will also continuously hunt for faces even when not half pressing and will drain battery faster. Only have it on when you need it.

Blue Tooth>Turn it off. It is by default set to "On"

Boost> Not needed for landscape and slow non action shooting. Turn it off if not needed.

Occasionally fully discharge the batteries to maintain lithium battery health.

-Peter

 

PS: Two years...? The camera came out in late Sept. 2019.....are you speaking of the XT2 ? The XT3 gets noticeably better battery life...

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
Aus_Roh Newbie

Aus_Roh

Posted
Posted

> Occasionally fully discharge the batteries to maintain lithium battery health.

A full discharge is apparently not good for lithium batteries.  Every time that happens, battery life is degraded.

(Extra tip, the best long term storage life is at 50% charge.)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
BobJ Community Regular

BobJ

Posted
Posted

I think that you are describing the normal noise from this lens and others. It's the gyros for the IOS, which run all the time irrespective of whether IOS is on or off. Also there may be some noise from the linear motors that do the focusing. I am not sure about the latter. The noise is normally very low so either you have sensitive hearing or perhaps there could be sometimes  wrong but I doubt it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • thelostkiwi
      Looking for Full Frame lenses to adapt to GFX

      By thelostkiwi · Posted

      I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Thank you. I will research it.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...