Jump to content
CplGumby

X-T2: Does it work for Hockey?

Recommended Posts

Hockey is one of the hardest sports to photograph. Fast, erattic, crappy lighting, Refs and players getting in the way and if you're a common schmoe like me and not shooting in a pro rink, you are shooting through Plexi-glas. Plexi not only adds an extra stop of light but if you aren't shooting perpendicular through the glass, you will get a haze or cloud on your image that you can't remove in post. Oh and did I mention that most often plexi has puck marks and scuffs galore? 

 

Yes, as a common guy shooting at a common rink, this is tough. So while it's sharper to shoot through a hole in the glass, just how does the X-T2 handle. Can you use it.

 

Well, you are going to have to do some post regardless to adjust the WB and possibly to bump up the exposure. I find anything over 5000 starts to incur too much noise.

 

Back Button focus doesn't work too well in fact almost all the images were off, however, by giving up control (gulp!) and switching to AF-C and allowing the AF to work when you press the shutter (AF-on still works in Manual mode) the images turned out much better.

 

I also discovered that JPG is much better than RAW for this. RAW had too much noise whereas JPG has a built in processor which makes the noise not as noticeable. A trade off is the images look a bit soft.

 

The biggest thing I found which was a surprise was how fast the buffer filled up. A quick burst and then it was full. What this means is that it's not a spray and pray tool which isn't a bad thing.

 

Although do-able, I will stick with my Nikon D500. Fuji isn't there yet. Pretty darn close but not as good as the DSLR. If the X-T2 is all you have, then you can still use it for hockey. Or talk nice to the rink rat in the hopes that he will let you cut a hole in his plexi!

 

Interesting story about image 141. The player celebrating had shot the puck and it hit the far post and then bounced ou tto his teammate who scored. The poor guy thought he had scored. Or...maybe he KNEW his teammate would so celebrated early!!

 

The last picture was not shot through plexi.

 

My settings were:

AF-C

AF-C setting of 5 for Eratic and suddenly accelerating/decelerating

1/1000s

F 3.2

ISO 5000/6400

AF Mode -Single point

 

The age group is Novice which is 7-8. Not fast but I also tried it on some older kids with the same result.

 

You may notice that some images are different WB, that's because I didn't have a preset made up.

post-12751-0-87504200-1484456704_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-55924300-1484456707_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-76731500-1484456708_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-37297500-1484456710_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-71243600-1484456711_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few years back, I also shot hockey but with my X-Pro1. Also young guys. 

http://www.larry-bolch.com/ephemeral/hockey/index.html

 

Remote northern town (St. Paul, Alberta), low light in the town rink. I tested and found that at f/4.0 with the 60mm lens focused on the goal, everything from the opposite boards to the point where the players over-ran the frame was in focus. I just left it at that and shot. I used the white on a jersey for setting my white balance. I could, of course, fine tune it in processing, but the balance remained accurate. At ISO6400 the exposure was 1/500th at f/4.0. However, the histogram showed that I could safely under-expose by -1.0EV and still have full shadow detail, so I shot at 1/1000th and pushed it a stop in processing. Very sharp images with zero blurs.

 

The OVF was superb. I could see outside the frame area and quickly grab any action that an EVF or SLR would have missed. I could not imagine a better camera/lens for covering hockey.

 

A typical shot.

 

Hockey-16.jpg.JPG

Edited by Larry Bolch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think if you bump your exposure when shooting by 1/2 a stop, the images won't be as saturated and the blacks won't be crushed.

 

I have shot a bit of kids hockey, kids box lacrosse and high school gym for volleyball/basketball and in all cases have found the XT1 and XT2 metering (as any camera would) says I'm overexposing by almost 1 stop.  I shoot in manual since the lighting isn't changing.  But with all the rink white boards and white ice or gyms white walls, naturally the camera wants to underexpose the bright scene.  But I don't get as much black crush as you but my images are definitely exposed by approx 1/2 a stop more than your samples.

 

Just my 2 cents.

Edited by Adam Woodhouse

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I opened a thread at the Day One of the X-T2 (literally picked from the shop and brought at the match 6 hours later, alongside my Canon 1Dx of course because was work and needed to be sure of the result): http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4623-x-t2-does-it-work-for-hockey/

 

I can now say after months of work that i prefer working with my T2 over the Canon. I use the Canon onlt in the Hockey stadiums where i need the extra light that my 300 2.8 can provide (please Fuji, start to make a 300 F2.8 please).

Now i am very satisfiied of the performance of the T2, even when using the teleconverter.

 

This are some of the latest photos i made

 

31688090760_d7bf49ca79_b.jpgHCB Bolzano vs Salzburg by Matthias Egger, su Flickr

 

31826672245_b8507bcef8_b.jpgHCB Bolzano vs Vienna by Matthias Egger, su Flickr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I opened a thread at the Day One of the X-T2 (literally picked from the shop and brought at the match 6 hours later, alongside my Canon 1Dx of course because was work and needed to be sure of the result): http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4623-x-t2-does-it-work-for-hockey/

 

I can now say after months of work that i prefer working with my T2 over the Canon. I use the Canon onlt in the Hockey stadiums where i need the extra light that my 300 2.8 can provide (please Fuji, start to make a 300 F2.8 please).

Now i am very satisfiied of the performance of the T2, even when using the teleconverter.

 

This are some of the latest photos i made

 

31688090760_d7bf49ca79_b.jpgHCB Bolzano vs Salzburg by Matthias Egger, su Flickr

 

31826672245_b8507bcef8_b.jpgHCB Bolzano vs Vienna by Matthias Egger, su Flickr

Great images! It's good to see that the focus and sharpness is crisp. Are you using single point or Zone focussing? I've found that Zone 3x3 works better than single point for me but I use single on my DSLR so I'm not sure.

 

 

How do you get it so your blacks aren't crushed and over saturated?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think if you bump your exposure when shooting by 1/2 a stop, the images won't be as saturated and the blacks won't be crushed.

 

I have shot a bit of kids hockey, kids box lacrosse and high school gym for volleyball/basketball and in all cases have found the XT1 and XT2 metering (as any camera would) says I'm overexposing by almost 1 stop.  I shoot in manual since the lighting isn't changing.  But with all the rink white boards and white ice or gyms white walls, naturally the camera wants to underexpose the bright scene.  But I don't get as much black crush as you but my images are definitely exposed by approx 1/2 a stop more than your samples.

 

Just my 2 cents.

Thanks for the comment. I do shoot with it over exposed by 1 stop but you gave me food for thought. Although I take the meter reading off the jersey, maybe it's still under exposed as I find I have to bump the exposure up on all of my images. (Gee Chad, why don't you bump up your esposure in camera then?? D'uh!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know the first time I shot a hockey arena I got underexposed images so I did a EV bump, but after that shoot I found I needed more of a EV bump and now find that if I just point the lens at the rink/boards while players are out and then note the exposure, I then make a change + 1 stop adjustment (while shooting in manual so that my results are consistent, particularly with video) ... found I get pretty good results.

Edited by Adam Woodhouse

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great images! It's good to see that the focus and sharpness is crisp. Are you using single point or Zone focussing? I've found that Zone 3x3 works better than single point for me but I use single on my DSLR so I'm not sure.

 

 

How do you get it so your blacks aren't crushed and over saturated?

 

Zone focus 3x3 with the 4th setting of the Autofocus!

 

JPEG Provia

 

Sharpness +2

Shadows +1

Noise -2

Color +2

 

;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are a series of shots that demonstrate the ability of the T2 to stay focused on the player when another passes in front. This was achieved by using an AF-C Custom setting. Tracking sensitivity was set to 4; Speed Tracking was set to 0 and Zone was Center.

 

These were shot through the plexiglas and I was on the goal line with the player on the center. Not great action but I was surprised when I came across it how it stayed with the subject.

post-12751-0-05140800-1487342025_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-39989000-1487342027_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-75760000-1487342028_thumb.jpg

post-12751-0-63523500-1487342029_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know the first time I shot a hockey arena I got underexposed images so I did a EV bump, but after that shoot I found I needed more of a EV bump and now find that if I just point the lens at the rink/boards while players are out and then note the exposure, I then make a change + 1 stop adjustment (while shooting in manual so that my results are consistent, particularly with video) ... found I get pretty good results.

Great idea, Adam, I'll give it a go!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By AudriusZ
      Hello,
      I have been shooting various sport events since 2003 until 2014 on Canon. Then quit action photography and switched to Fuji for more calm photography. Switching was one of the best decisions I've made! That quality of color and sharpness - it still surprises and makes me happy every day! 
      I've been asked to shoot some motorcycle races this season, so googling daily what are the best techniques for Fuji X-T2 because they dramatically differ from Canon. I would like to get some suggestions from You. So here are a couple of questions:
      1. Motorcycle straight on at high speed -  which AF Mode  - Single point, Zone or Wide/Tracking is more reliable?  What size of Single point or Zone? Best custom setting for it?
      2. Panning - same or different AF Mode is best? Best custom setting?
      If it's important what gear I plan to use - it is X-T2 + Battery Grip, 55-200mm, 90mm f/2, 35mm f/2, Samyang 12mm f/2 and 8mm Fisheye.
      Thank You all in advance!
       
      Audrius
       
       
       
    • By Ian347
      I have a Godox XProF transmitter but no Godox lights yet. When I connect my XProF to my X-T2 (both on latest software releases) the X-T2 recognises a "flashgun" has been connected but the flash menu refuses to switch into Manual. I can select M using the rear dial but it immediately switches itself back into TTL.
      Is this correct? Will it only work in TTL mode as I would like to have full manual control of my lights?
      Do you think I am doing something wrong?
      BTW this happens when there is no receiver active and also when I have a Godox X1RC receiver switched on, which disappointingly will only change the zoom function on my Pixel 800C (Canon compatible) flashgun, not the power levels or mode. Also the Pixel is not actually working in TTL despite the camera saying so, I have to set the power levels manually in the Pixel.
      Any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you
       
       
       
      .
       
    • By FenFotos
      Shelter from the Storm
      Trinidad, Cuba

      Buckets of rain brought everyone - even statues - onto the covered porch of the church on Plaza Mayor.
      This day justified my having the 18-135 WR Fujifilm lens on the camera. Wet out there! 
      [  1/90s f/3.5 ISO 800 - handheld, soggy, natural light ]
       
    • By Splodger
      Off on my hols in two weeks time. Going to Ireland for 10 days with the wife. I plan to travel very light so I'm going to use my trusty Domke F-5 XB bag. It is not a big bag: 10.5 x 4.5 x 6.5" / 26.7 x 11.5 x 16.5 cm. I can stuff in my X-T2 and all my lenses: Samyang 12mm f2, XF 23/35/50 f2 and Samyang 85mm f2. Everything fits snug excluding the hoods for the Samyangs, which I don't care about. The Problem is it's really snug. Not only do I have to stack two of the smaller lenses, but it takes too much time and care getting the gear in and out of the bag. As I'm not prepared to purchase a zoom lens (no offense, just not my thing) I am going to have to go without one of the lenses. 
      So, bearing in mind that I would be prepared to stack one of the XFs on top of the 12mm, losing one lens will make the whole thing a lot roomier. Which lens would you ditch?



    • By Glen56
      Setting my X-T2 for overhead shots, I thought I could use the App to control the camera. But with the manual focus switched in, it was still hunting.
       
      Has anyone else had experience with this, is there a work around, or should I buy the Adobe tethering Pro plugin and try to control the camera via that??
       
      Frustrating
×
×
  • Create New...