Jump to content

Fuji XT-2---Pink snow when shooting in jpg?


Talia

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

Can anyone help me understand why my jpgs of snow come out looking very pink? (Sky too for that matter.) And what I need to do to correct this problem. The pink tint is both visible in-camera and in Lightroom CC.

 

I have been shooting using Auto WB. And based on the histogram, exposure is not a problem.

 

I did not encounter this problem with my Fuji XT-1.

 

Thank you.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1. Try some daylight shots of white photo paper or better yet a color chart you know the RGB values for.
  • 2.  What are the measured color values of said pink snow?

 

The reason for bringing this up is my experience with 2 monitors one model version apart. The back light on the older one is pink but it is so little that it looks great as a stand alone so it required a controlled experiment to nail the problem.

Edited by asathor
Link to post
Share on other sites


Thanks to the three of you for your comments.

 

@JRPhoto: How does one calibrate auto WB?

 

@asathor: I am pretty sure it isn't a monitor issue as the pink is present on the camera's LCD as well as the monitor. I will try shooting white paper soon.

 

@Aswald: I am attaching a jpeg here of the pink snow, taken using auto white balance.

Pink snow. test

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thanks to the three of you for your comments.

 

@JRPhoto: How does one calibrate auto WB?

 

 

Menu -> White Balance -> Auto ->

 

Now you are at the "WB SHIFT" screen: you have two axis, more yellow or more blue, and more green or more red.

 

Mine is set to R=1 and B=-1.

Edited by JRphoto
Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have an XT-2 - but do have an XT-10.  But I sometimes get the same problem - reddish/pink files.

I'm shooting normally and the colour balance is OK - and then all of a sudden pink pictures.  If I enter the colour menus I see that the grid has moved to the far right (pink/red) side.

Somewhere in the buttons there's one that automatically seems to do this.  I haven't discovered which one it is.  The buttons on the back a quite small and it's easy to press one by mistake and change an all important setting.

I wouldn't mind betting that this is what you are doing - pressing a button inadvertantly

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

David, Thanks for this. I think you are right....I am inadvertently pressing something that then throws the colour off. If you ever figure out what is going on at your end (i.e. which button causes this), I would be most grateful if you could share your findings with me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Right I think I've sorted it.  In the manual for my XT10 I eventually found - "Control Lock To prevent accidental operation of thr selector Q .......press MENU/OK until -a yellow lock - appears.

 

I've just done some intensive shooting and had not of the previous problems.  I expect something like that is in the XT-1 as well.

 

bottom of Page 3 in the XT1- manual

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

If I enter the colour menus I see that the grid has moved to the far right (pink/red) side.

 

By default, the X-T2 has White Balance assigned to the right selector button. Pressing the selector right once brings up the white balance menu. If you're already in auto white balance then another press of the right selector button takes you to the WB Shift screen. More presses to the right will push the white balance shift towards the red end.

 

It seems entirely reasonable that unknowingly/accidentally pressing right several times would cause the white balance to shift. Only pressing the BACK button or turning the camera off will cancel the accidental white balance shift, but pressing your shutter release is the same as pressing OK, so that would accidentally lock in the WB shift changes =(

 

I personally don't change white balance that much and removed white balance from the right selector button. If you need quick access to white balance, I would suggest assigning it to function button 1 (between shutter speed dial and exposure comp dial) or to the My Menu.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

This solved my issue. Thank you! Derek

 

By default, the X-T2 has White Balance assigned to the right selector button. Pressing the selector right once brings up the white balance menu. If you're already in auto white balance then another press of the right selector button takes you to the WB Shift screen. More presses to the right will push the white balance shift towards the red end.

 

It seems entirely reasonable that unknowingly/accidentally pressing right several times would cause the white balance to shift. Only pressing the BACK button or turning the camera off will cancel the accidental white balance shift, but pressing your shutter release is the same as pressing OK, so that would accidentally lock in the WB shift changes =(

 

I personally don't change white balance that much and removed white balance from the right selector button. If you need quick access to white balance, I would suggest assigning it to function button 1 (between shutter speed dial and exposure comp dial) or to the My Menu.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

same thing happened to me once except that all my images went a funky yellow. I thought I'd screwed up my camera by leaving it on when I changed lenses. I was so upset with myself for hours afterwards before I realised I had inadvertently changed the WB as Ants describes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

I have a similar problem with my X-T2. Normally I have RAW setting activated, no problem at all. This week I wanted to shoot with jpg. All jpg photos have a pink color stick, inside the house and also daylight outside. What is wrong, what can do to correct it, setting, firmware, etc.

//Tomas

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...