Jump to content

GFX vs XT-2

qwertz7

By qwertz7
in Fuji GFX 50R / GFX 50S / GFX 50SII

 Share

Recommended Posts

gkutar Newbie

gkutar

Posted
Posted

Man please!!! it will never be same 56 mm f1.2 and 110 f2. What you will get from result is not a half stop. If you can focus the difference between apsc 23mm f1.4 lens and FF 35 sigma f1.4 lens difference, you will understand it. DOF difference will be huge. Your background will be far away with 110 mm lens. You can't tell only you need 50 megapixel bla bla.. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Michael McKee Apprentice

Michael McKee

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've shot the Pentax 645z and the Sony A7 rII. Megapixels and dynamic range don't tell the story. Not even close. The images from the different cameras LOOK different. It's not sharpness or bokeh either. Different sensors give a different look. This is not a better than thing. Whether we prefer one look over another is totally subjective.

 

While I'm not that much into resolution, I do appreciate the way the Pentax renders an image. It's wonderful. Part of that may be the lens, but the look stayed with shots from three different lenses, one of which was an old film lens. I didn't prefer the look enough to deal with the price, size or slow focus. Besides, I don't need that resolution for the work I do.

 

OTH, I found the Sony images a bit too digital and sterile. Again, that's just my take. I know three people with that camera who love it. Given the choice I'd take the X-T2 over the more expensive and higher resolution Sony. At least I will it it looks like the X-Pro2 that I've shot. When finances line up, I'll get the X-T2.

 

You can't quantify the difference between cameras. Numbers can't tell you how the photos will look, especially when well printed.

Edited by Michael McKee
Link to post
Share on other sites
super_gnome Rookie

super_gnome

Posted
Posted

 

 

I'm seeing the same thing.

 

Here's a question. Which on has better bokeh, a 16mp aps-c sensor or a 24mp aps-c sensor?

I haven't tried a Pro2 or Xt-2 yet, but my guess is that higher resolution would lead to improved subject separation if the lens has smooth bokeh and make matters worse if the lens has nervous bokeh. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
Aswald Mentor

Aswald

Posted
Posted

I haven't tried a Pro2 or Xt-2 yet, but my guess is that higher resolution would lead to improved subject separation if the lens has smooth bokeh and make matters worse if the lens has nervous bokeh. 

 

Pro2 and T2 has the same bokeh quality. If you can, try comparing the bokeh of T1 and T2 or Pro1 and Pro2. Different DOF.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Aswald Mentor

Aswald

Posted
Posted

It's a nonsense question.

The "bokeh" comes from the lens. Digi of film, it doesn't matter.

 

I would say, in film, low iso and high iso film has different quality bokeh and different DOF.

In digital I would say, large and smaller sensor, lower and higher mpix on the same size sensor, gives different DOF bokeh. Try it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Begi Nabara Collaborator

Begi Nabara

Posted
Posted

I would say, in film, low iso and high iso film has different quality bokeh and different DOF.

In digital I would say, large and smaller sensor, lower and higher mpix on the same size sensor, gives different DOF bokeh. Try it.

You're so wrong. I've been "trying it" for over forty years.

 

Please show us some examples.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Aswald Mentor

Aswald

Posted
Posted

You're so wrong. I've been "trying it" for over forty years.

 

Please show us some examples.

 

Not trying to prove anyone wrong and won't challenge your 40 years of "trying it" but since you asked.

 

Taken seconds apart, sooc, same lens, same settings, wide open and at min focus distance.

 

Which one has smoother bokeh?

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites
Begi Nabara Collaborator

Begi Nabara

Posted
Posted

DOF is the same. The right hand image shows the OOF area slightly darker (slightly different angle of vue?).

 

As I've said elsewhere, I'm an image man. I have neither the time, patience or energy to argue such things, though there are plenty of gear-heads here to help you. I suggest you start a new thread on the subject.

 

Cheers.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Aswald Mentor

Aswald

Posted
Posted

DOF is the same. The right hand image shows the OOF area slightly darker (slightly different angle of vue?).

 

As I've said elsewhere, I'm an image man. I have neither the time, patience or energy to argue such things, though there are plenty of gear-heads here to help you. I suggest you start a new thread on the subject.

 

Cheers.

 

No worries Begi. It was for discussion purposes. I was supporting the notion that possibly the bokeh of the GFX will be better than the X-T2 (all things equivalent) due to it's larger sensor. Since we don't have any photos from the GFX, mine is just a theory. I was looking at it from data I already have. I shared more details because you asked. No need to start another thread.

Link to post
Share on other sites
mdm Experienced

mdm

Posted
Posted

I'm an image man...

Cheers.

 

me to, so an image for Bagi...

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • thelostkiwi
      Looking for Full Frame lenses to adapt to GFX

      By thelostkiwi · Posted

      I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Thank you. I will research it.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Trevor R
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By Trevor R · Posted

      Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • jerryy
      Image correction with GF20-35

      By jerryy · Posted

      Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...