Jump to content

Metering on XT2 not the same as XT1?

Adam Woodhouse

By Adam Woodhouse
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20

 Share

Recommended Posts

Adam Woodhouse Proficient

Adam Woodhouse

Posted
Posted

Shot a wedding today with XT1 and XT2.  Both cameras set to centre weight metering.  I found for the exact same scene the XT2 would underexpose again and again by approx 1/2 stop when the XT1 would nail the exposure.

 

Has anyone else noticed the XT2 seems to under expose some of the time (maybe they are scenes where there are bright highlights and the XT2 favours the highlights more than the XT1)?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Aswald Mentor

Aswald

Posted
Posted

It's the same with the Pro2 and Pro1. Pro2 exposes darker and the shadows are darker as well. Seems to be biased towards the highlights more than the Pro1 would. On mine, it's more 1/3rd than 1/2.

 

So, maybe it's the "improved" metering for Fujifilm. Not sure.

Link to post
Share on other sites
gordonrussell76 Collaborator

gordonrussell76

Posted
Posted

Given flysurfer post I am not sure of the validity of the comparison, and I no longer have my X-T1 as I part exchanged it for the X-T2.

 

However even if this was true it would be a bonus for me as I always felt the X-T1 slightly overexposed for my tastes when I was in any kind of Auto mode i used to have EV at -1/3 to -2/3 of a stop as default.

 

So it will be niec ot know I can leave it at 0 :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
Adam Woodhouse Proficient

Adam Woodhouse

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My mistake.  

 

Even though the the symbol on the metering dial is the same, on the XT2 it is centre weight when on the XT1 it is Multi.  On the XT2, Multi is a different symbol.  So I wasn't comparing apples-to-apples.

 

I'll have to test a bit more but I expect in time, knowing this my exposure between the two will be more consistent.

Link to post
Share on other sites
flysurfer Experienced

flysurfer

Posted
Posted

Multi will of course be different between the two models, but we already know this since the X-T10, so nothing really new here. 

 

Well, except for one thing: they fixed the adapted lens exposure "bug" in the X-T2. It's still in the X-T0, X-E2, X-E2S and X-Pro2. At least it was when I tested this several weeks ago. T1 never had this issue thanks to its old multi metering algo.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Puma Cat Enthusiast

Puma Cat

Posted
Posted (edited)

Adam, I am finding essentially the same thing; but to put it a bit differently, I am finding that in "Multi" (what Fuji refers to as "Pattern" in the EXIF file) that my X-T2 will often overexpose by about +1/3 EV. I often find that the Center-Weighted Average metering mode is a more accurate read of the scene than Pattern/Multi. We should bring this up with Fuji, because I think the Multi algorithm is still off a bit, about +0.33 to 0.5 EV). It appears the new Multi-Pattern metering algorithm is "emphasizing" different parts of the scene than the X-T1 did to set exposure settings. 

Edited by Puma Cat
Link to post
Share on other sites
Puma Cat Enthusiast

Puma Cat

Posted
Posted (edited)

Since the X-T1 doesn't even have center-weighted metering, that's unlikely.

Regardless of how the metering modes are labeled, what we are finding is the X-T2 in Multi mode does not appear to be as accurate, or more descriptively concordant with, the X-T1 using it's older algorithm Multi metering mode. I am going to do some controlled testing on a tripod to compare histograms, etc. 

Edited by Puma Cat
Link to post
Share on other sites
Adam Woodhouse Proficient

Adam Woodhouse

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know that as I've owned different cameras over the years (Nikon D80, D200, D300, D300s, D700, D610, D3s) and now two Fuji's (XT1 and XT2) ... every camera meters a little different.  I have found it simply is a learning curve and getting use to the personality of the new camera.  

 

My original post was directed at two very different results from the XT1 and XT2 when I thought the metering mode on the cameras were set the same.  Since they were not, it makes sense I would have had such drastic differences in certain scenarios.  In particular, images on my XT2 were almost 1 full stop underexposed when there was something bright (i.e. a white shirt that dominated the scene) and that didn't happen on the XT1. But that was when I was using a different metering mode on the XT2 versus the XT1 which I didn't realize at the time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • jakabasej8
      Fujixt4 icon unknown lower left corner

      By jakabasej8 · Posted

      agreed on the upload but based on the location and number it sounds exactly like the storage slot 1 status icon
    • thelostkiwi
      XS10 and manual lenses

      By thelostkiwi · Posted

      All three of my bodies (X-E2, X-T4, GFX100S II) have shoot without lenses enabled and they have all had it set since I bought them.  No harm in it at all. Just remember to set the focal length when you fit a manual lens with no electronics otherwise the IBIS (if you have it) goes nuts. I regularly use vintage film lenses from Minolta, Zeiss, Mamiya, Rollei and others on my X mounts along with more modern manual focus stuff from TTArtisans. I also use Nikon AF-S lenses with a Fringer so the world is your oyster! Vintage lenses can be an absolute bargain too - For example the Zeiss 135 f/35 in M42 is as cheap as chips and very sharp as is the excellent Minolta 35-70 Macro (which is also rebadged Leica). 
    • Neil Rosenberg
      Infrared Photography on X-E2 665nm

      By Neil Rosenberg · Posted

      I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
    • Tschortschli
      Screen is flipped with fan001

      By Tschortschli · Posted

      Hy there When Im using the fan001 on the XH2s and I flip the LCD Screen vertically by 180 degrees then the image flips vertically, what is good but it also flips horizontally. The clean feed on HDMI is not flipping horizontally but its also flipping if the HDMI output info display is on. When I unmount the fan then the image flips only vertically. My firmware is updated to the latest version. Any ideas if there is a fix for that?
    • Neil Rosenberg
      Infrared

      By Neil Rosenberg · Posted

      In reply to the original question, it all depends on what you mean by infrared.  If you mean "see thermal information", then I agree with the comments here.  However, if you mean near-infrared, the X-T4, or basically any digital camera can be modified to "see" it.  Check out Lifepixel.com and Kolarivision.com for more info. As regards lenses, I'm not exaggerating when I say that I have searched with great vigor (and at great expense) for a way to capture IR images with a Fujifilm camera for which I didn't have to use major amounts of sharpening to bring out the best. Zooms, primes, Fuji, Tamron, Viltrox, Sigma, Zeiss ... probably 20 lenses all told. Plus multiple IR converted Fuji cameras, X-T1, X-T3, X-T5. I even tried different ways of filtering IR, such as using the Kolari clip-ins and lens-mounted front filters. I was ready to give up until I almost accidentally tried one of the cheapest lenses out there -- the little TTArtisan 27mm F2.8. No hotspots that I could see, and best of all ABSOLUTELY SUPERB SHARPNESS across the entire frame. It's this attribute that I search for, and until now, never achieved. In my prior attempts, I listened to the advice from the "pundits", picking up a copy of the venerable Fuji 14mm F2.8, the Zeiss Touitt 12mm F2.8, Fuji 23 and 35mm F2.0, even the very similar 7Artisans 27mm F2.8, and none of them come even close to the TTArtisan for edge sharpness in infrared. Incidentally, I'm using a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. Sure the TT has its issues -- vignetting at 2.8, tendency to flare with sunlight nearby, but all in all, this lens is glued to my X-T5 for now. This image was taken hand-held with this lens -- completely unedited!
×
×
  • Create New...