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Hello Everybody, I don't come so often on the forum, but I'm always following the fujifilm news. I Wanted to share some of my shots taken in iceland with my fujifilm x-pro2 and mostly the fujinon 10-24 1) Aldeyjarfoss waterfall 2) Vik Church 3) Hvitserskur troll

I cant decide between the 10-24 and the 16 mm 1.4 fuji lens. I have the xt-1 and x-70. As well as the 35m1.4 and 18mm f2 . I would really like a zoom but I also really want the wide low light capabilities of the 16. I do a wide variety of shooting now. Landscape, Street, Portrait, but i also want to get into more night shooting of downtown los angeles and the urban architecture and life and low light shooting. So i am pretty torn on which to go for. I am fairly new to photography and some people have told me that the 10-24 is really go in low light because of ois but I have no idea. I need to decide sometime today. Thanks for your help guys.

Hi dudes. You might know me from the Fuji rumours comments section. Anyway, I thought this forum was a better place to put my query. I currently own: X-Pro 2 (will buy a XT-2 later this year for sure). 8mm Samyang Fisheye (because it's cheap and fun) 16-55 2.8 (event shoot and family outing lens) 23 1.4 (low light event shoot lens) 35 f/2 (my main daily lens) 90 f/2 (portrait and "good enough for me" macro lens) I have enough money for the XT-2, 50-140, 100-400, 10-24 and 56 1.2... however it's always good to save a $ here and there so.... Definately will buy: 50-140 (this is to replace my old 70-200 lens, an absolute must have for me, it'll be my main event shoot lens) 100-400 (I've wanted a lens like this for years, nothing can stop me buying this lol) Not too sure about: 10-24mm (for ultra wide landscapes and cityscapes when I don't want a fisheye effect). 56 1.2 (for shallow DOF upper body portraits, Edit: and possibly for a second low light event shoot lens to go with the 23 1.4) About the 10-24: I want something ultra wide that isn't a fish, is it redundant with the 16-55? Will a Samyang 12mm be good enough for occasional ultra wide shots? I do some landscapes, but I'm not a huge landscape guy (I will mainly shoot this stopped down FYI). Less distortion is great for cityscapes (I live in Hong Kong). About the 56 1.2: I am impressed with upper body portraits from this lens. I definately use the 90mm for tighter headshots in the studio and on location shoots. I can use LED lighting and get some really nice shallow DOF shots in the studio with the 90mm. However I'm not 100% convinced I NEED a 56mm. In studio situations I am thinking I can switch to this for the typical upper body shot. However is it made redundant by the 50-140? I also think perhaps this might make a nice compliment to the 23mm as a low light event combo, (I used to have a 35mm and 85mm combo for this when I shot Nikon, I do like this combo). Your thoughts on these things are appreciated. Also, anything I've missed?

I'm not usually a black & white kind of guy. And when I am i prefer to use Nik Silver Efex because it gives the best control. But I was out shooting some long exposures last night thanks to the sun returning to Michigan and realized that Acros + R is extremely fitting for long exposure cloud work.

Hi all, I'm new here, and a recent convert to the XT1 from a Canon 650D. I'm mostly into travel photography, and thankfully I got high enough up the learning curve to get some good shots on a recent trip to Chernobyl and Pripyat. These are mostly with the 10-24 iirc First we went to the Duga 3 radar array which is the most spectacularly big abandoned thing I've ever seen. And has awesome gates. Then we hit the road to Chernobyl. Pretty much all the roads are very long, completely straight and completely deserted. Then Pripyat Which has a ferris wheel...

HI guys, Did you ever wonder why 10-24 doesn't have fixed aperture values on it's aperture ring like other lenses with constant aperture? The answer is that 10-24 have actually variable aperture! But it slows it down by 4/3 f-stop on wide end. You can see that by looking through the front element of the lens while shooting wide open on 10mm. I found a way to shoot on f2.5 but it's not too reliable and may broke lens or camera. I believe it's possible to do the same by firmware update. So how does it perform on f2.5? Lens becomes slightly soft and there is some vignetting. I'm not sure if that is why Fuji decided to restrict it to f4 only. It also can be because on 14mm it becomes f2.8 - the exact the same as XF 14 2.8 prime lens. So it can be marketing restrictions. I did a quick test just to see how different can be DOF on 2.5 vs 4. Test conditions and scene are not too accurate, I'm going to do a proper test when I have enough time.

Hey everybody, i want to buy a Fuji X-T1 with one of the kit lenses. Following lenses are available: 18-55 18-135 16-55 10-24 I already own following Fuji Primes: 23, 27, 35, 56 I am also interested in what color would you choose for the X-T1...silver or black? I am open to you recommendations. Thank you very much. Patrick