Jump to content

Aswald

Members
  • Posts

    1,042
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Aswald

  1. This may help. A bit tedious but you may get a clearer picture. "It is supposed to be the sensitivity where the sensor gives its “best” performance, as determined by dynamic range (large) and noise (minimal)" http://dpanswers.com/content/tech_iso.php If the base ISO is 200, there will be little benefit going below that although some cameras do have a selection for "pseudo" ISO50 or 100.
  2. I think the 35F2 is touted to be the fastest focusing lens of all xf lenses.
  3. Was in the dry box the last 2 months as with all my other gears. Took it out to shoot last weekend and the numbers on the Aperture ring of my xf35mm f1.4 caught my eye immediately. It has changed color to a bright magenta/pink! All other white markings are still white! None of my other xf lenses are affected. Anyone else has this on their xf35?
  4. Wow...that's very nice of them. Excellent. How did you realize that your aperture was stuck? I must admit I've never really looked at my aperture in operation and always assumed that the lens was giving me correct aperture.
  5. 27 F1.8? That would be very interesting indeed.
  6. To our benefit! Thank you.
  7. Generally I don't think that dusts at front end of lenses affect picture at all. If I am skeptical, I may say it causes some light flare/diffraction earlier and cause some stray light in the chambers which may cause some reduction in contrast. But I believe, my mind has more effect than the dust itself.
  8. It's LensPen SensorKlear kit. I used this to clean Canon 5D, Nikon D7000, D800 and XPro1 successfully. I usually start cleaning my sensors if there are more than 10 specks. After cleaning it's zero spots. Of all my cameras, the D7000 was the worse after 5k actuations. More than 30 specks. Here's are some tips I found useful. Blow gently into sensor with blower brush. Sensor face down and blower face up. Give good clearance between sensor and blower. Blower tip does NOT need to be in sensor chanber. Spot clean the dust specks with the lenspen before attempting to wipe the whole sensor Try to Lift speck rather than wipe off. A combination works best. Clean lenspen after every successful dust speck cleaning or as often as possible. Clean tip by replacing cap and twist cap once or twice. Check with illuminated loupe after all the spots are done. Take test shots. You may not need to go further. If test shots shows specks, return and repeat procedure. You may give the sensor an overall wipe if you wish at the end. Make sure your lenspen is cleaned first.. Very light pressure is needed most times as the dust are usually not embedded. I don't even grip the pen, I just hold it very lightly with my thumb and index finger. I have never needed wet cleaning. It sounds daunting but it's rather easy. I bought an extra lenspen but have never needed it. The one in the kit is still cleaning effectively. I was told the active cleaning surface of the lenspen is made of some kind of chamois. It's perfectly safe. Good luck and have fun.
  9. Haha....it does look like the Kenji ones would better protect the rear of the camera. I'd say it's a good decision. My experience with Fujifilm's original leather is that it's fine leather and the coating isn't quite as durable. Very often it would get nicked and scratched from my fingernails alone.
  10. Not sure if it's my connection but this link doesn't seem to work.
  11. The Rok 12mm is as sharp as the XF14.....maybe a bit sharper. Picture IQ is very close. 2mm diff is significantly wider for landscape. Like Yukosteel says, zone focusing needs getting used to. On the XT1 it's better. XPro2 no issues. Challenging on the XPro1. For the price of the Rok, it's really a no brainer. Excellent lens.
  12. May I know which Fujifilm camera you use in context to the posting you made above?
  13. Thank you! These are very helpful information for me. Well done.
  14. I use Fotodiox for Canon FD lenses. Works quite well so far. All metal construction and tolerances are acceptable.
  15. Excellent! So the entire assembly is removed from the rear first?
  16. Does look like the EXA mount.
  17. When it comes to LCD screens, there are ISO standards. Normally, every manufacturer tries to give 0 dead pixels but if you want to create a case, there are policies. A bit old but still holds water. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_13406-2 http://www.tested.com/tech/1337-we-uncover-the-dead-pixel-policies-for-every-major-lcd-maker/ You can of course, challenge them.
  18. It depends on the manufacturing/quality policies you agreed to unknowingly when you bought it. A lot of display companies states that a minimum number of dead pixel is considered normal. However, depending on cases, they may fix for you out of goodwill. The usual caveat applies, owner bares the postage, etc.
  19. Fujifilm's MF body would probably be in the $4.9k range. Again their MF lenses would probably be the reason. Not sure how the XTrans will perform but I suspect it will be good. Larger pixels, run cooler, better bit depth and DR, excellent sharpness and detail. It will be an eye opener at that price. SONY as usual will wow with excellent resolution, detail, stupendous color and detail. A few excellent lenses but be prepared to pay...... Just saying....
  20. There will be a Fujifilm MF for sure. Asked an ambassador during one of their launch events and he just gave a big smile.
  21. Not sure about work around. I think auto DR is not available in M mode too.
  22. What an excellent idea! It's perfect for shooting in remote regions. The novelty will have 'em pose beautiful shots! Ok. Now I'm convinced with the instax printer. Will get one.
  23. Good to know, thanks. I daren't generalize here but most of my female friends, nieces included love instant results and rather not fuss about more "complicated" real cameras. Either that or the smartphones....
  24. Perhaps these may be helpful. http://petapixel.com/2016/03/05/fujifilm-x-t1-vs-x-pro2-one-buy/ http://www.fujivsfuji.com/fuji-xpro2-vs-xt1/
  25. The X-T1 handles low light better than the EM1. I agree with Tom H about the iso800 being the point the two cameras part ways. In good light, the EM1 does give punchier colors. The camera is slightly smaller but it feels heavier in the hands. Haven't compared the specs. If you're thinking of the Xpro2 or the coming Xt2, Then I would say go for it. It's definitely a departure from the EM1. Fuji has enough lenses to cover most wedding needs.
×
×
  • Create New...