Tikcus

I Shot a gig tonight with the NP-W126s battery and X-T10 I know that there is not supposed to be an improvement in performance compared to he original NP-W126; however, tonight I shot 450 photographs in RAW+Fine, transferred ~20 to phone via wifi app, camera was on solid from 8pm -11pm. I shot in full manual exposure, with XF35 F/1.4 lens for the most part ~20 photos taken with XF60 F/2.4, single point auto focus with manual adjustments, and the battery still has power (although is down to last bar but not flashing red). no flash used I don't think I ever got more than around 350 with the NP-W126 and the XT-10 even when it was brand new. Has anyone else noticed an improvement in battery life with the new s battery on older cameras?

The Pro 1 is a special camera, but the T1 is a massive upgrade as far as auto focus goes how much do you use the OVF? the EVF on the T1 is much better than the pro 1 it's your money If I had my hands on both at the same time, I'd pick the T1 every time. Not sure I'd pick a used T1 now though, if it was only slightly cheaper than a new T20. good luck

Re:- upgrading there are 2 reasons to upgrade. NEEDS and WANTS There is nothing wrong with upgrading because you want to rather than need to, it's your money after all. A need to upgrade is because you have either reached a limitation of your camera, or your camea is missing a feature you could use. A Want does not need to be justified if you can afford to do it. I can only spek personally but if I was to upgrade to a Xtrans 3 camera, it would be the X-Pro 2 or X-T2 - Why? it would deffenitly be wants over needs (the T20 does not offer a significant improvement over the T10 for me, and would only be considered if I got a great deal P/X the T10) The majority of my work, doesn't need faster autofocus speeds (though I never feel Autofocus is slow anyway). ​I've never had an SD card fail in camera so I've never before felt the need for an automatic backup in camera, but this is a feature I like (I only use Lexar Pro SD Cards), I don't shoot weddings or many once in life time events, so worst case scenario if a card failed it would just require a re-shoot, therefore this is deffenitly a want rather than a need. More mega pixels and faster processor are alays welcome, I've printed to A1 from both the Xtrans and Xtrans 2 and both are good enough, but if you can't use the full frame of the image and need to crop more mega pixels does allow you to crop your image further and retain an acceptable print. For myself the difference between the X-Pro 2 and X-T2 mainly optical viewfinder on the pro 2 and 4K video, and faster continuious shooting with battery grip on the t2(or more photos taken) would only influence my decision if prices remain similar. X-Pro 2 is currently £1339 in UK (on amazon) X-T2 is currently £1399 in UK (on amazon) without battery grip At those prices personally I'd opt for the T2 If the Pro 2 was around the £1100 mark and the T2 at the £1400 mark, I'd definitely opt for the Pro 2 edit The other issue that would potentially influence my decision to the Pro 2 or T2 over the T20 is HSS flash support. It was a non issue previously as no Fuji had official HSS support (although it has been added to X-T1) Although HSS works on my X-T10 using my nissin i40 (although the nissin i40 does not work in HSS on the X-Pro 2, when i tested it) it is unofficial support, if Fuji will not support HSS on mid range bodies it will give me another reason when i upgrade to get the Pro 2 or T 2

x I'm not going to quote previous replies as CBA to get into an argument with people. Welcome to Fuji. Your zoom choices are good for general photography, if I didn't own a prime lens and was going to buy 1 only it would be the XF 35 F/1.4 Every time Personally I ONLY shoot full manual exposure (with the only exception being, well, never) the adjustments to Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO can be made in seconds and in reality, you normally only ever have to quickly adjust one of the 3, which depends on what you are taking pictures of. Is saving a second of my time shooting in shutter priority worth sacrificing creative control for, never for me, I can't speak for others. is a fast F/1.4 worth the extra cost? yes in my opinion if you do not own anything that fast. It is 3 stops of light better than an F/4 lens, depending on what you are photographing depends what difference that will make, and what limitations you are prepared to put up with. An F/1.4 lens can shoot at F/4, an F/4 lens can never shoot at a wider aperture. No lens is at its sharpest wide open, but its sometimes better being able to shoot a fast lens wide open than a slower lens wide open and with a high ISO/Slow shutter speed. Aperture @ F/1.4 Shutter Speed @ 1/60 ISO @ 800 = Aperture @ F/4 Shutter speed @ 1/60 ISO @ 6400 Personally I'd much rather have an image shot at F/1.4 than an image shot at ISO 6400 People will say but if a lens has OIS you can hand hold at a slower shutter speed, which is true, but OIS can not stop Motion Blur (so as long as you only take photographs of static objects OIS is great) The fast lens provides you with a shallow DOF option. The other option you have if it's about indoor photos in low light is to use a flash. For kids or anything that moves personally I'd rather have the flexibility of a fast 1.4 lens, the choice between 23 and 35 only you can make, at a push around the house you may find the 35mm a bit tight, I'd recommend you to set your 18-135 to both focal lengths to decide between them. Here is a photograph I took at dusk with the 35mm F/1.4 @ F/1.4, SS 1/60, ISO 200 (if I had to shoot at F/4 this photograph would not have been possible, the ISO would have to have been pushed higher, and I don't like noise, and the background would be more in focus than i wanted) tldr The faster the aperture of a lens the more creative control you have over your art

No issues with mine, If it is at start up, you sure you're not just at a narrow aperture, a fast shutter speed or a low ISO Does it effect the screen or just EVF? how often does it happen and under what conditions?

If I was looking to upgrade it would be a very tough decision between the T2 and T20 The WR is no big deal (but nice) but the ISO dial and duel UHS II cards would be nice. Here in the UK the T20 is up for pre-order at £799 and the T2 is £1399, that is a massive difference in price, does the T20 Does anyone know if the HSS of the EF-X500 works with the T20

Exposure compensation does not do anything if you have manually set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO; if you are shooting in full manual exposure, you compensate by adjusting the Aperture, shutter speed, or iso depending on the requirements and which setting is most important: If you need to freeze action and maintain a certain depth of field you can adjust the ISO If you need the highest quality image (e.g. still life etc.) you want to leave the iso at 200, therefore you'd adjust the shutter speed or aperture if you want the shallowest depth of field (e.g. a portrait) you want to keep a wide aperture, so you would adjust the shutter speed or iso to get the correct exposure.

if leaked photos are not fake, only 1/4000 shutter speed and no iso dial (or combo), personally i really like combined dial on x-pro2 The loss of the function button would be missed by me at least, i changed the bottom right function button from wifi (default) to iso on the X-T10 , and I remapped the video button on the X-T10 so it's not like a function button has been gained on the top of the camera by moving video to the command dial.

but you wouldn't use a portrait or macro lens to photo a running puppy, in the street things don't move that quickly I have tested the 60mm on an X-T10 tracking a walking person across a garden and only 1 out of 18 photos using continuous auto focus, was not in focus (shooting at 3FS).

Please someone explain to me what SLOW to Focus means, ALL Lens I own focuses faster than I could time with a stopwatch. Some Lenses are slower than others on paper, but in reality I find all Lenses focus almost instantly. Lenses missing focus is a bigger issue, but can easily be corrected if you have auto + manual selected. The only lens that can be slow that i own (although very rarely) is the XF60 F/2.4, and that is only if focus is missed and it goes through entire range (and only happens on macro photography where speed doesn't matter) As far as DOF goes the look of the Out of Focus areas is different between lenses but the amount of Out of Focus area is easy to find on any web calculator Based on the Object Distance being 2 meters away photo'ing wide open (of the 3 lenses discussed) 56 F/1.2 has shallowest DOF, then 60 F/2.4, then 50 F/2 http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

touch screens are very useful if only for focus selecting (especially for video) Although, I'm still not going to buy yet. 90% of the X-T2 for 50% of the price will be attractive

I had a quick try today and could not make HSS work on x-pro 2, i did not jump into menus or change any camera settings from default as did not have time. I'll be interested in finding out if anyone has made HSS work on the i40 and an x-pro2 or X-T2

The nissin i40 works fine with the X-T10, X-E2s With the X-Pro 2 with firmware 2.0 the i40 did not fire at all, after upgrading to 2.01 I tested the i40 with TTL only (which worked fine) The X-Pro 2 is the camera used by my Father so I do not have it to hand to test with HSS. I will try to test over the next few days and will report back (unless someone has done it sooner)

Warning Long reply Depending on the location depends on the kit, I'm going to present a couple of situation one of which where money is no problem, or you own every lens, the others actual situations that I have experienced/witnessed. City Trip - e.g. New York (cityscapes, street etc) 16mm F/1.4 & 56 F/1.2, if one body, one lens on the camera, one in a pocket 16mm for your cityscapes and street, 56mm if you want to do some portrait shots without being on top of the people - You want something that is fast for low light photography for the night I've actually done New York with the 18mm F/2 and 35mm F/1.4, The 18mm was used through the day, and the 35mm on the night with very little lens changes throughout the day, I'd probably use the same kit again if I went back. Zoom alternatives 16-55 F/2.8 as a single lens solution, during the day losing 2 stops of light wont be an issue (mostly shooting the city at F/8), at the night, you may miss those 2 stops of light Mix XF18-55 or XC16-50 for walking around during the day, and a faster lens for the night e.g. 35 F/1.4 or 56 F/1.2 Safari - (assume 2 bodies) Body 1 - XF100-400 (with or W/O TC) Body 2 - XF18-135 100-400 for photographing the wildlife (from a safe distance, don't fancy trying to take a headshot of a lion or leopard with a prime lens) 18-135 as a backup to capture any landscape or other photographs You can swap the 18-135 for any other lens but you will have gaps in focal lengths which may or may not cause you problems, if it is just for occasional landscapes etc, a small prime lens should do fine Cheaper alternatives - XF55-200, or XC 50-230, you may miss the reach (look on flickr at the focal lengths people on safari use) if you're at a zoo either of those would probably do fine, the XC lens can be purchased cheaply 2nd hand but is under rated. If you can't/don't want to invest in the XF100-400 but want more reach (are prepared to sacrifice quality for price, loads of super zoom bridge cameras can be purchased cheaply most only have 1/2.3" sensors but a few have 1") Something else? Do research, search flickr or other sites to see what people have used. If I'm going out with no real objective I take 1 body with XF35 F/1.4 lens and maybe the XF18 F/2 in a pocket/bag. I find the approx. 50mm length useful for nearly everything (bar wildlife/birds) I zoom with my feet, if I can't get wide enough i'll put the 18mm on. tldr Apart from wildlife photos most other photographs can be captured with most prime lenses or the zooms (that start at 16mm or 18mm)

This is not a major deal breaker for me.(although not likely to buy one just yet) When i'm out shooting street, it is NOT Raining If it does rain when i'm out, camera goes into my pocket/bag. ​The X100 series is a sealed unit, unlike the X-mount cameras, there is not a big hole in the front. My NON WR X-T10 and all my non WR lenses have never died because they got a little wet.

http://www.holiday-weather.com/cornwall/averages/

computer power and storage is the least of the issues most will face upgrading from an xtrans 2 to xtrans 3 camera. I have no real need to upgrade from Xtrans 2 to 3 anytime soon, but at the same time, I don't see the need for extending the Xtrans 2 line when newer XTrans 3 cameras are available (and soon hopefully more affordable models X-T20 etc). If I had to replace my current camera's it would almost certainly be with an Xtrans 3 model

Why do you want that focal length? What pictures do you want to take? When I look at a photograph, I don't look at the IQ I look at the meaning, the emotion, what's been captured and why Pretty pictures are nice (and most cameras and lenses can capture them) , but the reason for taking the picture is more important for me, what it says about the place, what's happening and the photographer

Sorry can't help, don't have either, but love the 35 F/1.4

The X-T1 has been replaced The X-T10 and X-E2s and X-70 EOL is probably not a big deal. When a part ends production from a contracted supplier, it is not normally a short notice event (large penalties are built into contracts if either party does not full fill there part, in this cae Fuji would be expected to buy x number of sensors per qtr, and Sony would be contracted to supply x number of sensors per qtr) The is every chance both the X70 and X-E2s were introduced as too many sensors had been purchased, so were effectively EOL as soon as released. Sony stopping manufacture of 16MP sensors does not mean Fuji are not sat on a pile of thousands or hundreds of thousands. The same as the just announced X-A10 is probably just to use up remaining sensors from the X-A1/2. All new Fuji cameras moving forwards now that the 2 flag ships have been released will almost certainly be based on the new 24mp sensors

can you not get closer??? I shoot gigs all the time, and use the xf35 F/1.4 and the XF60 F/2.4 Normally shooting wide open, at 1/120 or faster and iso 800/1600/3200 If I had the cash and could justify it, the only lens i'd buy for gigs would be the 56 F/1.2

I live in the UK, neither the body i use X-T10 or any of my lenses are WR. none have died because of the weather. Granted don't go out in the rain for personal photography, because why would I? I wouldn't worry about the weather that much, it is very rare if it is a sunny day (your traveling in early summer) you'll get caught in a down pour by surprise. If you are wanting to buy a new lens. It would depend on what type of photography you ae going to be doing, to what I would suggest

probably exactly what they are doing,, the only difference i noticed (which is prob a mis print) is over on fujirumors, the iso was listed from 100-6400 expandable to 25,600, all other Fuji's are native 200-6400 with 100 listed as extended

I'd only consider this lens if it was....... Yeah can't really think of a use for it, got to much cross over in my current kit Focus speed is not relevant as it is sub 1 second 99% of the time with every lens I own DOF for 50mm at F/2 at 2m is very similar to the 60mm F/2.4 at 2m (or 35mm @ F1.4) So wouldn't buy it for DOF I can walk the difference between 50mm and 60mm If I really needed the 50mm length, I could drop on the XF18-55, or XC16-50 However, if I didn't own any lens and didn't require the 0.5 magnification of the XF60 and the XF50 was cheaper I may buy it along with some of the other new lenses

I doubt the low and midrange will merge, I expect Fuji to keep the following for a while Flagship Range Finder - X-Pro x line ​Flagship SLR shape - X-Tx line ​Midrange - X-Tx0 (maybe X-Ex for a while) Entry level - X-Ax New Value level X-Ax0