Tikcus

Just checked my xt-10 Aperture on Lens - set to A ISO - Set to Auto (or anything) Shutter speed set to A Mode = Program Aperture on Lens - set to Anything but A ISO - Set to Auto (or anything) Shutter speed set to A Mode = Aperture Priority Aperture on Lens - set to A ISO - Set to Auto (or anything) Shutter speed set to Anything but A Mode = Shutter Priority Aperture on Lens - set to Anything but A ISO - Set to Anything Shutter speed set to Anything but A Mode = Manual Exposure Body Firmware = 1.21

Having never used the XF-50 F/2, but owning the XF 60 F/2.4, I can't see a reason to buy it. But the OP is looking for cheaper glass and I suspect not a debate on which XF lens is better

that's fine if you can shoot on multiple cameras with a team, when i have to shoot live events on a single camera alone (normally unpaid non professional), having to constantly start and stop recordings for a show that does not have any breaks or pauses is a lot of work, yes i could invest again in a camcorder or a different camera make, but since it is unpaid, and only every now and then i'm not prepared to invest the money

8K then 16K then 32K, they will all happen We just need a few more die shrinks of processors to get the technology into XT size bodies, is there any point in such high resolutions for a moving image that is debatable. For the little video I do (ATM), the output at 1080p from my Xtrans2 bodies is more than good enough. But, I am looking to get back into video and the Video Features that would actually interest me if Fuji adopted them would be: 4K photo (the ability that Panasonic cameras have to record 4K video and then pull the stills frame by frame from the camera) No time limit on video files, 15min recording limits is annoying. If Fuji released an X-V (video) Pro, with all the photo features of the XT-2 and proper video support at less than £2500, I'd definitely want one

Hi I adapted a 30+ year old Petri 50mm F/2 (Pentax K mount) with reasonable good results, I can't lay my hands on any examples atm; however, I expect that like most lenses there are good and bad copies, and when buying second hand you take your chances (lens was a gift, but i've seen them for around £20 on ebay, adapter cost <£20) Honestly it does not get a lot of use as most of my portrait work is done with either the XF 35 F/1.4 (outside) and the XF 60 F/2.4 (studio) good luck edit if i didn't own any of the above i'd be tempted to try https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01JFZU424/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2II1N5L6NB9B0&coliid=I2RDM1TRU95IG1&psc=1

http://www.surfcoastnature.com/Wildlife/i-pmjwL6b/A

it sounds like pre=auto focus is switched on in camera (but then all your Fuji lenses would do this) ​if you switch that off your battery will last longer as well Make sure firmware on camera and lens is up to date good luck

just checked your website, some great photographs, the bear fishing, and on the tree trunk are great captures

I'd just walk forwards or backwards With the 18 and 35 there is not a lot i can't frame correctly using just my feet to zoom, the 35 F/1.4 is what i leave the house with 99% of the time (however i'm not a big landscape photographer) If I was going out to shoot landscapes, I'd probably just take the 18mm, if i had the Samyang 12mm and was going out to shoot landscapes I'd probably just take that

hello, I've never tried my hand at astro, but when light painting in bulb mode for a 30 sec + eposure, i use settings like, Aperture F/16 ISO - 200 RAW. i'm pretty sure others or youtube will be able to help more

I think you missed the point somewhat, show me a test that shows the equivalent of a power screwdriver and a manual screwdriver screwing into wood without pre-drilled holes, then claim they are as good as each other. For most a mobile phone camera is all the camera they will ever need, on a good day produce very large prints (I've printed an A1 print from an iPhone photo), but in poor light they are terrible. You still can not claim camera x with a small sensor is as good as camera Y with a large sensor if you only compare them in ideal settings. ​Let me see prints from photographs taken in a night club at ISO 6400 with both cameras and see how they perform

There is nothing new here. In perfect conditions most cameras will take good enough pictures I've been soooting a lot recently with large format (5"x4") film, and medium format (6cm X 6cm and 6cm x 7cm) film, and the small 35mm (full frame), the quality increase obtained when using the larger formats is undeniable, unfortunately with film any imperfections on the film are also more significant the larger the format. The Fact with large format film you can crop away the imperfections and still produce a brilliant large print, which could not be done with 35mm without the quality decreasing. In the digital world sensor size is one of several things that effect the quality and usability of the final print. If your shooting in the studio, happy days, pretty much any camera that can trigger your flashes will produce good prints Outside the studio, you have a lot more issues to deal with If the lights not great, you need a camera with good high iso performance, or fast glass you want to shoot super shallow dof - larger sensor, faster glass you can't get close enough to what you want to take a photograph of - More mega pixels allow for more cropping, or buy a longer zoom lens. If you take the same type of photos day in day out and never want to push yourself, I suspect that you can find a camera that does that task well and you'll never need to upgrade it. It's only when you find the camera or your own limitations that an upgrade maybe needed; however, since most of us live in the (almost) free world and are allowed to make our own decisions on how we spend our money, we're allowed to satisfy our wants for new/better gear whether or not the equipment is actually needed

without checking (as cba) like every other x-series camera to date, when a lens has an aperture ring, the rear dial (or front if switched) will only change the aperture in program mode (where it will also change the shutter speed, to keep the metered exposure

All camera bodies WR or not have a massive hole in the front of them. a bit of light rain has never damaged any camera I have owned, you just need to be sensible. Is the WR worth the premium between the X-T2/X-Pro 2 and the X-T20 not in my opinion; but, are all the other upgrades between them combined worth the premium, maybe.

I take the right gear for the occasion. If I do not know the full situation, unfortunately more gear is carried. If i'm going out with no real purpose, a camera with the 35mm F/1.4 will normally do

i'd love the 200 F/2 or F/2.8, especially if it works with tele convertors it will be big and heavy a 200mm lens at F/2 the diameter of the aperture is 100mm (The f-number is the focal length divided by the diameter of the aperture) A 200mm F/2.8 the diameter of the aperture of 72mm

Fujifilm, quite regularly have regional sales (a few times a year) which involve cashback. Recently there was a cash back offer on lots of lenses (not quite all) and double cashback if you purchased a qualifying body at the same time. In the UK this included all bodies apart from the X-A range, and the X-T2. You had to purchase from on authorised retailer (which included amazon in the uk)

I couldn't agree more with this. i've said it before that the original lenses focus fast enough, i've never had an issue with the original 18/35/60 on any xtrans 2 series camera When i'm shooting live events the extra stop of light can be the difference between getting an acceptable photograph and not

i'm happy with 3:2 can crop if required in post easy enough, I don't find it so hard to frame photo even if I have the intention of printing on 8X10 paper. Just make sure the focus object is in the centre

if this is released it is the first true like for like replacement; assuming, it does not get released a stop slower or without an aperture ring

OIS is of little interest to me on lenses <100mm, if i'm shooting a landscape at F/16 and 1/15 sec, I'd be using a tripod and a shutter release cable. I'd like the availability of long prime lenses 200/300/400mm with OIS and support for tele-converters. If the 35 F/1.4 had exactly the same optical performance and all that was changed was the focusing motor (you can add WR if you want) then fair enough, I'd probably still not replace version 1 of this lens (unless it died) as it is the best lens i've ever used I'd much rather see a new flagship lens in a 33 or 35 F/1 (even if i could never afford/justify buying it) TBH I'd like a 2 tier lens line up to continue, smaller, cheaper, slightly slower, WR lenses Fuji have a 16, 23, 35, 56, 90 Fast lenses (F/1.2 - 2) I've included the 90 here because F/2 at 90mm is a very shallow DOF Then if Fuji expand the New MKII lens range to include a wider lens and a longer lens it will be a nice set of options for most photographers.

although i don't use an xc lens and use the xf27 only every now and again i've switched them as well

in manual exposure mode the rear dial sets aperture on lenses without an aperture ring.

My 2 pence worth Would I buy a 33 F/1, almost certainly not; Do I think Fuji should make one, maybe. Companies (not just camera companies) make products to satisfy the 1% not the 99% , not always to make money directly. Having a flagship product that is out of the reach of the majority drives sales of other products. Look at every market, from computer CPU's to cars to watches to pens. Every manufacturer releases a flagship product which sales will be a fraction of their entry level and mainstream products In the UK you can buy a Parker Pen for £10 or a Parker Pen for £500. Not many £500 pens will be sold, probably not enough to justify the production costs in the short term. But without the flagship pens less people would be drawn to the brand. Look at intel processors how many people buy the intel i7x processors for £1000 each not many but having the high performance flagship and the fastest performance helps drive sales of the mainstream devices. Not every product in a range needs to make a profit if it adds value to the range. If Fuji had not released the XF100-400 a portrait/lifestyle/wedding/whatever photographer who in their free time enjoys wildlife photography that was thinking about moving to the Fuji system, may decide not to because they could not replace their current setup

When usig a super telephoto you need to be careful about your depth of field and shooting wide open if your subject is 20 meters away @400mm and shooting at F5.6 on a 1.5x crop sensor nearest acceptable sharpness =19.72m Furthest acceptable sharpness =20.29m Total DOF = 0.58m Stopping down two stops to F/11 nearest acceptable sharpness =19.45m Furthest acceptable sharpness =20.58m Total DOF = 1.14m If you hold focus for too long and the object moves slightly it aint going to be in sharp focus shooting wide open at such long focal lengths