Merde

Not likely, we are talking about raw images here.

Oh damn, that looks bad. I'll check my copy of XF 16/1.4 when I get back home. I've made a test shot against the sun to simulate similar conditions while the sun is still up, but I realised I have left my memory card reader at home. Edit: It's not perfect, but much better. And can be easily corrected in post (well, in ACR at least, because somehow purple defringing in Capture One doesn't work at all).

No slow (4.5-5.6), el-cheapo UWA zoom?

Please add XF 23/1.4 to this equation.

Oh yeah, and less then 100 shots on fully loaded battery...

You can still wear EU43 shoes on your EU41 feet. Try the other way round...

Firstly, you should consider how often you shoot in low light situations with no flash. If you shoot a lot indoors - I would recommend XF 35/1.4 (for faster shutter, not shallower DoF) instead of XF 35/2. Otherwise I would choose XF 27/2.8. It's really cheap (180-190 EUR or so) second-hand and you can't go wrong with this lens. It is usually better to crop for narrower FoV than to stitch two photos.

There is absolutely nothing strange here! I prefer shooting X-E1 (yes, the sluggish one) over X-T1. I believe with X-E2 it's even more fun. It just sticks to the hand right away and has all the buttons and viewfinder in right places.

Try XF 35/1.4 (1 stop makes a difference in low light and I don't mean DoF) and XF 27/2.8. Both lenses rather cheap second hand.

I had some trouble, don't really know what was the cause. Anyway, please check your path where you put your profiles, for Windows 7 x64 it should be something like that: C:\Program Files\Phase One\Capture One 9\Color Profiles\DSLR Please check if you have additional files with filenames starting with "._" and of much smaller size (less then 1 KB). For example I had: FujiXT1-Pro Neg Standard sRGB.icc (457 kB) And an additional file: ._FujiXT1-Pro Neg Standard sRGB.icc (496 I'm not sure where it came from, I've probably copied it from previously used CaptureOne 8 version. If you have these files starting with "._" - please delete them.

In-camera jpeg settings affect histogram observed on LCD screen of your camera only. Lightroom/ACR develops raw image differently.

My X-T1 also "sparkles", but it is completely natural. As others said before - it's noise. With lens cap on it doesn't even matter what ISO I set. Maybe with your camera noise level is higher then expected, but it is difficult to say without real life comparison. My camera LCD screen seems darker and not so bluish (rather violet/purple).

AFAIK clipping warning occurs when image developed from raw image (not necessarily raw image itself!) doesn't fit in histogram. Probably you can see some detail because only one or two of RGB channels reach 255 limit.

Your exif says: f/2.2

Do you, by any chance, have profiles that work with C1 Pro 9?

You might just switch to CaptureOne to fix that issue.

That is a very naive thing to say. You have paid for it when you bought X-T1.

In my local store in Cracow (Poland) one can get for example: 1. X-T10 with XF 18-55 and a 16 GB memory card for 4070 PLN after cashback (~958 EUR) 2. X-E2 with XF 18-55 and XC 50-230 for 3749 PLN (~882 EUR) So no, X-T10 is definitely not cheaper here.

Keep the batterry warm, but not the whole camera. Just take it out. It doesn't matter if the camera is weather resistant (unless it is completely hermetic and evacuated).

It's just precaution. Even Canon's workhorse 1Dx has 0-45C working temp. range. Absolutely do not do that! Your body warmth would just increase condensation.

Yes, there is - fast primes. Let me repeat myself: It seems you are "fast zoom guy" and I'm not. The only nonsense is your calling my approach nonsense.

For you it may be nonsense, for me it is the reason I sold my Canon gear.

As usual: 1. Do not put camera under your jacket. 2. When you enter warm places (your hotel room etc) leave your camera in your bag/backpack for at least one hour. Rapid temperature change may cause condensation inside your camera and/or lens.

It really depends if one prefers fast zoom lens or slow zoom + fast primes. I prefer the latter approach, because mirrorless gear shouldn't be heavy.

You were there twice?