jerryy

Try CablesToGo --> Select USB-c cables, then choose the connector type (USB Micro) https://www.cablestogo.com/ Monoprice ( https://www.monoprice.com ) also carries cables, they may have one.

Welcome to the forum.

As long as the lens itself is good, the only difference would be the adapter you use to mount the lens to the body. Usually the manufacturers' list the compatibilities on their sites. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Give Exposure Bracketing a try. It is the AE Bracketing in the menu: https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en-int/manual/x-t30/taking_photo/bracketing/index.html This link might explain the options better: https://timelyphoto.com/blog/2021/fujifilm-exposure-bracketing-and-hdr p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Well, perhaps…. It takes a lot of processor time getting auto focus to work well, most of the companies do a decent job and do show good improvements in each new body generation they release. That you are able to see some of what you are trying to get shows that. But body makers mostly concentrate on doing that with their own lenses, it is up to the third party lens makers to keep up with changes and update their own firmware. p.s. There are also some issues concerning constant aperture vs variable aperture lenses as well. p.p.s. Morris, a person on another forum uses zone focusing and subject detection on his XH2 for birding. Quite successfully, given shots he posts. You might try his settings for AF-C to make sure your lens works well before trying to add zooming into the mix, AF-C is extra demanding on its own. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1772910/0

It is not really an issue with the AF system per-se. For that type of work you need a parfocal lens, which tends to be a little more expensive to build. A lot of lenses are instead based on the less expensive to build varifocal design. https://www.studiobinder.com/blog/what-is-a-parfocal-lens-definition/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parfocal_lens On their product page for this particular lens, Sigma does not mention which type of design they use for the lens, but based on your description, it sounds like it is varifocal.

Woodford County, Kentucky, USA

You may have seen waterfall images or ocean or lake images with silky smooth water. Those are made using long exposures, but depending on the time of day, there may be too much light -- the image will blow out before you can get the water flow just right. A ND filter cuts back the light amount hitting the sensor, so you can leave the shutter open longer. You can also take images during the brightest day time without worrying all that glare or harsh light will ruin the image, some images do not do so well cranking the shutter speed up as high as the camera will let you (this is called the digital camera effect) -- ND filters let you get the shot at more reasonable shutter speeds and f-stops. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neutral-density_filter https://petapixel.com/nd-filter/

Since you are not wanting a variable ND filter, it will be tricky to justify just one filter without adding in so many, many disclaimers that you might end up spending more time reading the disclaimers than being out using the gear. 😀 Try a light weight, a medium and a hard core big stopper type. That is three, but you will have a versatile set to start and be able to build depending on the type of images you want and the lighting you encounter. Note: That CPL will help you in a pinch. Also Note: Be very careful to read reviews looking for any hints of color casts, you will be far better off trying a different brand, even if it costs a bit more than trying to remove the cast in your editor. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Open your “final” image in the Preview app and re-export it: https://support.apple.com/guide/preview/welcome/mac scroll down to the “Convert … “ section.

Have you tried shooting without the grip to see how many images you get? p.s. Welcome to the forum to you (and RolandP). p.p.s. You may end up having to send the camera and grip in to the service center, but in the mean time trying to trouble shoot things without knowing what you and your dealer have tried can turn into generic approaches: 1.) The body, only, has issues. Try the camera with a full battery and see how long it lasts. 2.) The grip, only, has issues. Try a different grip with full batteries. 3,) The batteries themselves have troubles. You may have received dud batteries, or counterfeit batteries — these look really close to OEM batteries but are fakes that do not last as long. Also, some third party batteries do not last very long. 4,) Some combination of the above, but you will most likely need to ‘put the gear on the bench’ and test all the connections, hence either take it to a camera repair shop or send it in to Fujifilm and let them work it over in their back room until they fix it.

Either that or the top left dial is set to Adv1 or Adv2.

Milky Way in July... Smoke from various wildfires has cleared out a bit. Earth's trek around the Sun (an ellipse) has tilted a bit from earlier, making the Milky Way seem like it rises vertically, a disc in the night sky. This is equivalent to 2 and 1/2 minutes exposure time.

As I recall, sometimes with HDMI based devices, there can be compatibility issues due to the copy protection part not being correctly handled — that is, one device does not think the other device is “legal” and will refuse to work. Normally this does not happen with cameras and monitors, but for devices where it does, a lot of times, it takes trying several different cables to get things to work. I am not sure why the cable usually is at fault, but swapping it may reset the protection circuitry.

How have you tried making sure the new monitor correctly works? Connect it to a blu-ray player or some other device that can output video over a HDMI cable and make certain the monitor is okay. Try a new / different HDMI cable from the camera to the monitor. Try different video out settings. p.s. Welcome to the forum.

Out of Service... Young's High Bridge, a single track cantilever bridge. Built in 1889, it was last used in 1983. It spans the Kentucky River, one end in Anderson County, the other end in Woodford County, Kentucky, USA.

Wow!!!

Ohio River, Indiana - Kentucky, USA

Photosol, who makes Eclipse sensor cleaning fluid, recommends their Type 2 swab, 17mm: https://photosol.com/swabchart/ p.s. Welcome to the forum.

The linked image does not show up, I hope it will though, Kingfishers are cool birds!

You would be limiting yourself compared to what you should be able to enjoy with a changeable lens body. @Edp uses a 75mm as well as many other lenses for his images: https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/31761-i’ve-found-the-x-t5-to-be-a-capable-camera-for-motor-sports/#comment-99515 As @OzGordo and @Astigmatism mention, try shooting from different distances and find where the lens gives you the pleasing shot for the perspective you want. There are quite a few car - sports shooters using lenses with considerably longer focal lengths to get great shots, as well as wider angles lenses for certain shots. This link has some more information about perspective distortion: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion