Jwctp

I too will be looking forward to the 80mm. Technically, at the same distance, it would have the same DOF has the 56mm. But since it's 80mm vs 56, you would have to step back for the similar framing. Which means your DOF will increase. Also, the 56 is a 56. It's going to offer a much different perspective compared to the 80. You'll be using them for different situations and looks.

But you said you'll print occasionally at 16x20. Now that fact is no longer valid? BTW, I printed 24x36 with a photo I took with the X-E1, which is only 16 megapixels. It looked amazing. Honestly though, you can't go wrong with either camera.

You're not a professional and the biggest you might print is 16x20. Chances are, your photos will just be shown online, which is about 1-2 megapixels. Perhaps you'll make one of your pictures your wallpaper. So if you get a 4k monitor for that, it'll be about 8 megapixels. In conclusion, it doesn't matter what camera you get. Get the X-T2 if you like the handling better. You probably won't see the difference in quality in 99.9% of the photos you take.

They support the compressed RAWs. Capture One also said they redesigned the X-Trans RAW processing. So maybe there is an upgrade. Also note that I shoot portraits and fashion without much sharpening, which Capture One excels at. I don't shoot landscapes to see the typical X-Trans issues like watercolor, worms, etc.

Currently, Capture One just released an update to support X-T2 compressed RAWs. Fuji also released its X Acquire software a few months ago. So I set X Acquire's destination folder to a Capture One Hot folder, and it works well. It is speedy and seems reliable. I tested against Lightroom, and it's significantly faster. I'm going to try this out on my next real shoot that requires tethering.

It works really well. I have it tethering to a specific Capture One hot folder and Capture One picks it up fast. This is probably the best way to tether to capture one. Since Capture One now supports compressed RAWs, it's a great solution. The only problem is you can't control you camera from C1. But that's ok.

If I lock the shutter speed dial or the ISO dial, I shouldn't be able to change it using the wheels.

I tethered the XT-2 yesterday with LR. And it was the first time it didn't crash, bug out, or anything. It actually went very smoothly. I wonder if LR released an update or if it was just a fluke?

It's probably mostly i). These pros are probably used to using only Capture One so they are using the image editor of their choice. And it's a promo video, they probably weren't too concerned with what editor they were using since it was about the camera. Of course, the sharp eyed people would've noticed Capture One immediately.

Since it is a decent investment, I'm going to wait a bit to see what the real reviews say. Maybe I'll wait until the 110 lens comes out. I got a bit burned from pre-ordering X-T2 and found out it couldn't tether right out of the gate. That meant I couldn't use it much.

Like others have said, you overexposed. Some ways you could handle this in the future: Use spot metering and point it at the bright part of the elf's face. Matrix metering and use Exp Comp dial to lower the exposure to see fit (using the WYSIWYG screen) Manual Exposure and adjust your ISO, shutter, and/or aperture to get your desired exposure of the elf's face (using the WYSIWYG screen).

The note about cropping: it is true, especially when Fuji releases their 100 megapixel MF camera. I shot the Phase XF100, and with that much resolution, I didn't want to frame in camera. It made you want to shoot loose. Imagine shooting a full body shot and zooming in at 100% to see a super-sharp, detailed eye.

For my genre (fashion), I'll be good with the 63mm and the 110mm. With the Fuji X system, I only use the 35mm and the 56mm. It depends on what you want to shoot.

Lightroom or Capture one can do light retouching since they both have spot healing tools for minor blemish fixing.

It's pretty bad. There's already been some discussions in the fujirumors site. But this means that commercial photographers, who are currently the ones who use medium format the most, will not use it. They are married to C1. For GFX to succeed, Fuji has to hope medium format will penetrate other genres like wedding, street, and landscape. I think It has a great chance because of its price.

Seriously. I don't know what people are complaining about. Also, most web-photos are viewed at around 2 Megapixels. The X-T2, even when pixel-peeped, at ISO 6400 looks same as most APSC or even Full frame cameras. When downscaled from 24 to 2 megapixels, it should look great. And it does, based on the photos people posted here.

I don't think back button focusing is useful for my shooting style. I shoot models and use the focus points. When I tried the AF-C method, I would be on the outer focus points most of the time. It would keep pumping to focus, and I found this slower than just using the shutter button. Also, because it was pumping focus a lot, I ended up with a lot of out of focus shots. Also, since I don't focus recompose, the back button focus method isn't as needed. I move my focus point to the spot, half press, and then click the shutter in one smooth motion (or strive to). When I was using a different camera with only one focus point in the middle, back button focus was a lot more useful. I would focus with back button, recompose, then hit the shutter button. Decoupling the focus and the shutter is more important there since you don't want to accidentally re-focus when you recompose. It's also harder to hold the half-press down as your recompose.

I wonder with the increased number of focus points and the speed of focusing, if back button focusing is beneficial anymore these days. I found back button focusing beneficial when I had to focus recompose. But with the focus points, I can move the focus point to the desired point of focus and just half press and press. The decoupling the shutter button and focusing doesn't seem that helpful in that situation.

Great job and good model. Now you should feather the light to light the rest of her body instead just her face.

My issues have been tethering, which might not pertain to you. Also, I have complaints about the joystick. That's about it. Other than that, it's been a great camera.

I'm sorry, but that sounds ridiculous. Why not go the most direct path? It's not intuitive to go in a roundabout way to your focus point. You can't say that we "haven't learned to use it yet" because most of us are probably doing the most logical thing and moving it directly to the focus point instead of making an indirect path. I don't think Fuji intended the joystick to be used like that either. But thanks for the tip. I'll try it and see if it helps. But Fuji definitely needs to do a firmware update and let us adjust the speed of the joystick.

I agree. USB-C is the future, and the camera having USB-C ports will future proof it.

Yeah. I thought about getting the Nikon d810 when I started to need tethering. I'm also considering the Sony A7rii. They both work with Capture One and might be a better solution if one needs tethering more. Tethering with the X-T1/X-T2 is ok. You need someone to act like a digital tech to watch the photos come in as you just shoot away. I wouldn't wait on anything except at the beginning to check your exposure and other settings.

So just an update. I got to use tethering, with the old version, using my X-T2 at a real shoot with a client. It's still clunky as ever. The speed is still slow. In a real life scenario, it doesn't feel any faster than X-T1. There is a bug with the tethering software recognizing the X-T2 when the camera sleeps or if you turn it off (This also happened with X-T1). You need to restart the tethering software OR even restart Lightroom. To be safe, between sets, you have to close the tether software and restart it when you're ready to shoot again. This is pretty annoying and needs to be fixed by either Adobe or Fuji. I don't know if the new PRO software will fix that. So it's the same as the X-T1. It's still a pain, and it's unstable. But it's there if you need it.

You're right. It's far from useless. But it's not 100 times more useful than using a D-pad. The speed of the joystick is so slow, I'm having to use it like a D-pad. I'm clicking it towards the point I want instead of holding it down (it feels faster that way). That feels more awkward than the D-Pad.