drandyperry

My copy is perfect and pin sharp at f/2.8. Please post some examples and we'll have a look for you. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

OK, thanks for the heads up. At least I know my grip isn't faulty. I guess it doesn't really matter as long as it uses the grip batteries first. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I'm sure I read that the x-t2 was supposed to discharge the batteries in the grip evenly. Has anyone had experience to the contrary? I had a one battery go completly flat, should I be worried? I'll keep an eye on it and see if it makes a habit of it. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Are you covering it officially or just as a spectator? The reason I ask is think about whether you will be shooting through a fence. If you are shooting through a fence then the faster 50-140 can be useful. (you can also use the lens for "normal use" it's an awesome lens. Then use the tc for longer reach. If you are not shooting through a fence then the 100-400 will probably be ok. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Ah, I was using af-c mode as I was shooting cars hence why I was stuck stopped down whilst shooting. Thanks for your investigation. Good to have the information. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I've shot Le Mans and used a 50-140 with a 2x TC which gives you 400mm equivalent at f/5.6 worked very well. If you'd like examples let me know. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Surely it only tries to focus when you half press the shutter button (or bbf). I tried my heart out (including turning off depth of field preview) and I couldn't manage to shoot using Phase detect at f/11 during my recent trip to Le Mans. (see other thread). So if the focusing is done at the exposure aperture then it must be the motors that are speeding up the f/2 lenses. If you, or anyone have a way of focusing wide open and then only stopping down to take the shot is love to know how you do it. Andy Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Very interesting. I'm always slightly underwhelmed by the subject separation at the long end. F/4 at 70mm equivalent but with 55mm dof doesn't quite give the pop I like. I had the same issue but not so bad with my sigma 24-105 f/4 on my d810 but I put up with it for the extra reach over the 24-70. I'm sure the 2.8 would head me more towards the right direction. Could do with the 18-35 f/2 that sigma has with a little more reach. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I've not used the f/2 but, whilst I love the look of the 1.4, it is a bit slow and clunky to focus. If you need to focus quickly, or need to track things around the frame the /1.4 has trouble keeping up. Still I wouldn't change mine, the f/2 would result in about an f/3.2 depth of field equivalent on a 50mm. Not shallow enough for what I'm after. I think it all depends on what you shoot! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

The 50-140 does the same. When there is no power, there is nothing to hold the focusing element in place. Normal, but disturbing none the less! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I've got some cheap Chinese tubes, for about £12. They work great and are stackable. Full electronics so the auto focus works. With them both on the focus point is often inside the lens hood on shorter lenses. This gives light issues but you can just use the thin one. Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371947783335 Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

P. S. I'm also looking at the 16-55 to switch for my 18-55. The only reason I'm hesitating is the lack of ois which I'm loving on my kit lens. I wonder if they'll update the 16-55 to include ois to match the 50-140 (which is awesome). Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I only use primes for weddings. Shoot most things wide open. You only really need 3 lenses for a wedding , keep 2 of them on 2 bodies and then switch out when needed. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I'd agree here. I'd like an option to not have the af point to from the far left to the far right of I overshoot the furthest left one. Then I can wang it over to the left then back off 1 or 2 for a near left point. Maybe I'm just used to my old d810 but it seems to wind me up when I miss it. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Ahhh, found out why it wouldn't work for me. Apparently you can only use iso 100 with a mechanical shutter. I was mainly using electronic shutter. Doh. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Yes, it would. Just saying that I think the camera is trying to get an even (ish) exposure over the frame. I'll have a play myself (only just got mine) and report back if I stumble across any tricks. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

P. S. Before I had my x-t2 I had a Nikon D810 and shot with an sb910 (both pro kit) and never really worked out why, on auto iso, it had a fetish for shooting at iso400 on a super sunny day, making me stop down to f/16 to get the sync speed low enough. ? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

The camera should be psychic as it's TTL system! Try a different variety of situations. I'd guess it's trying to boost the non lit background to match the exposure of the flash lit foreground so it doesn't look like a horrendous 1980s flash stun gun shot. Try using the flash for fill in when there is plenty of light, the iso should reduce then. If you want a very lit subject and very dark surroundings then bop out to manual (camera and flash) and tell it exactly what you want. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I've got both of those and the work fine with 4k. The extreme (gold) one I have got in 128Gb flavour and it actually writes pretty quick, 60Mb/s and I've used it for shooting busts often when I was at Le Mans last month. No problem. I couldn't justify the very fast uhs II cards in such a large capacity. I didn't miss the extra speed once. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Thanks for that, at least it's not me choosing it in the menu and not realising it. That's a bit of a limitation. Looks like I'll be getting myself some nd filters. It'd also be good if you could use the low iso setting and save raw files. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Looks like the triggers are not available yet for Fuji but as soon as they are, that will be great. Flash seems well built, not too big. Only takes 2 x AAs. Zooms with the lens. Need to try it out properly, but first impressions are good. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

It exists! I'll have a play and post back. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Hi, Had a weekend shooting with my x-t2, 50-140 and 2x TC at Le Mans. My first sports application with the xt2. Loved the speed of it but I have one question. It was very sunny, with the base iso of 200 (I was shooting raw +jpg so iso 100 didn't work) I was having problems slowing my shutter speed down to get background blur in the cars. If I went smaller than f/8 then my phase detect Af didn't work and it dropped down to contrast detection AF which wasn't fast enough to track the cars (I did try it). Most dslrs will focus in with the lens wide open and then only shut the aperture down when the shot is taken. Is there a way to do this with the xt2? I'd be happy in mechanical shutter mode. I tried turning off exposure and wb preview but the lens still sat at its set aperture the whole time. Any advice is appreciated. If it's not possible I'll invest in a couple of nd filters to allow me to do this. Thanks, Andy

Just seen that the Godox flash is soon to be available for Fuji. Search Godox 350F. I've pre-ordered one. Only £69 and full TTL. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Yes, yes, yes, yes. I've talked about this in a number of areas. I end up shooting in ch all the time and getting 2 or 3 shots every time I want just one. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk