drandyperry

I have to confess I've only used lightroom to date. I'll have to check it out. Do you convert to dng or tiff with it and then continue to process in lightroom? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Sorry if the link didn't work. Original posts copied below. OK, I took the plunge a few weeks ago and since then I've have a few short studio shoots, a lot of taking pics of the family and thought I'd better report back with my findings to help others contemplating the same thing. Things I like: The EVF is stunning. In available light this is a much better way to take images as you se exactly what you are going to get. With available light or continuous light in studio it takes a lot few shots to get the look you are after. I'm much faster getting shots with the XT2 than I was with the D810. I look though the viewfinder, adjust exposure settings to get what I want and then just worry about framng. Great. The D810 would take me longer, once I've taken a meter reading, I'd need 3 or 4 shots to dial in the exposure as I was thinking. The lenses are fantastic. The Nikon glass was pretty good as well, and not really that fair to compare them directly as the f/1.4 glass is expensive. Most Fuji lenses I have (16mm, 24mm, 35mm, f/1.4) are super sharp, even at f/1.4. No issues nailing focus and getting super sharp results. AF is great. The AF is really good. It tracks better than my D810. When you have it set correctly, I seem to get more keeps in a burst (nearly always 100%) than my D810, however it's more of a faff to set it up in the mode you want (see dislikes section). Cropability Not sure why this is as I've taken a drop in resolution but I feel just as able to crop as I did with my D810. I'm not sure if it's to do with the Xtrans sensor but it seems to retain detail at higher magnifications. E.g. zooming in to 2:1 in lightroom seems to retain more detail than 2:1 on my D810 files. Noise The noise is different to my D810. The one thing that annoyed with my D810 is the colour noise. You didn't have to push the ISO too far to get ugly colour noise in the images. This is not there is is less ugly with the XT2. I used to default the D810's colour noise reduction to 15% on anything over ISO 800, which gave you muted colours that were a bit meh. With the XT2 the colour noise is not there or not unpleasent. I've turned off colour noise reduction completely in lightroom now. Speed Super fast camera to work with, I'd say as fast in normal shooting as the D810, however there seems to be slightly more shutter lag than the D810 even though the AF is as fast or faster. If you want split second timing most of the time, maybe better to stick with a DSLR. Colours The colour rendition is great. Seem to get extra range (not sure what to call it) with the colours. I don't know what the proper term is, but it's like there are more available colours to use. Charging The battery grip can be plugged in and the 2 batteries can be charged in the grip, you can also plug the camera into a micro USB and charge up the camera battery. If you are driving somewhere between shooting you can just plug it into your phone micro USB in the car and have it charge on the way. This is great. You don't need extra battery chargers if you go away / camping. Manual focus This was a no-no for me with the D810, I would never nail it without being very slow. So I only used manual lensesfor macro of still things. The focus peaking on the XT2 means you can use manual lenses with ease. I have an Helios 55mm f/2, a Helios 135mm f/2.8 and now a Samyang 50mm f/1.2 and they are a breeze to focus, even on (slow) moving things. Every camera should have focus peaking like this! Tilting screen Great! Depth of field My Nikon glass was mainly made of of f/1.8 primes (I'm not made of money!) and I was worried that the smaller sensor would make it hard for me to get subject separation. I've got some nice f/1.4 fuji glass as well as a Samyang f/1.2 50mm. The DOF between the Nikon 1.8 and the Fuji Samyang 1.4 - 1.2 lenses doesn't seem too dissimilar. I'm happy. Size and weight Much better for family and out and about pictures. Doens't realy make any difference for studio, model location shoots. Things I don't like: Batery life. This is not very good. I've got the grip which takes 2 batteries, so for anythign serious is not a problem. Without the grip you need a battery in your pocket. Also, if you use a wifi SD card, there is no easy way to keep the camera on (to transfer images) without draining battery a lot. The best I've found is to put the display into EVF + eye sensor so that none of the displays are lit when you have the camera on and are not looking through the eye pieces, but put it in your bag when it goes dark and it'll fire up the EVF. AF setup. Whilst you can get super awesome performance from the AF system, it works completely different to the way I used to use my D810 (I'd put it in £d tracking, continuous, back button focus) and then just either hold down the AF on for tracking or tap the AF on to do single. The XT2 requires you to be in the right mode. If you are in the studio, you really need to change it to single point AF-S, if you are tracking something you need to change it to AF-C and then change to Zone or wide tracking. To get D810 beating AF whilst tracking something you need (I think) to force it to use the phase detect system only by putting it in CH (continouous high) shooting. If you have it in CL or S then it uses the contrast detection and tracking is slower. If anyone knows a way to force it to only use the phase detect when in other drive modes, please let me know and I'll buy you a pint!. More customisation: This is a strange one. You can customise the XT2 more than any other camera I have owned. Must more than the D810. However I'd like to assign things like changing the EVF from exposure / white balance / preview (WYSIWYG) to off (for when you use external lights) to a button. This is so that when you are swapping in a studio between strobes and continous light you don't have to dig in the menu. Also I'd like to be able to assign and remove the AF-on - shutter button link easily (so I can give my camera to my wife to take pics and change it from back button focus to shutter button focus). Again, if you know how to do this, a second pint is on offer! Lens mount: I'll get used to it but they screw on and off backwards compared to my D810! TTL flash: I'd like the option for some 3rd party TTL flashes (are there any?) The fuji one is super expensive, think I need to keep an eye on ebay. I've used a manual one with no issues, but when swapping from manual flash to no flash you have to change the EVF to preview exposure on with no flash and off with flash. I'd like to think that a TTL flash would tuen this on and off for you when you turn the flash on and off. Does anyone have the Fuji flash and can comment whether it does it? That's my summary for now. Overally I'm very happy with my camera. I'd be happy to shoot a wedding with it (but I'd need an extra body). I was nervous it wouldn't be as good / easy to use in the studio as my D810, but my fears were unfounded after a couple of short studio shoots. This isn't meant to be a Nikon vs. Fuji or DSLR vs. mirrorless post. I was a big mirrorless sceptic so thought my comments migth help others. If you have specific questions I can try to answer them or post images to help answer them. Hope some of that was useful. AJP Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Bit of a mini review here if you are interested and can get to the web page. http://purpleport.com/group/photography-chat/114324/Sidegrading-Nikon-D810-to-Fuji-XT2/ Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

No, I traded it in. Completely switched systems. Ended up getting x-t2, 16mm f/1.4, 23mm/1.4, 35mm /1.4, kit lens 18-55 2.8-4, Samyang 50mm /1.2, grip. Loving it so far. Wouldn't go back if you paid me. Used it in studio, on location, with family. I'm a convert. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Don't worry about it. I've gone from a 36Mp d810 to an x-t2 and I'm loving it! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Bought mine a few weeks ago. Serial number is 71M734XX Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Arrived! I love the ability to charge different batteries at the same time, charge from a 12V source (whilst camping) and see what charge state the batteries are at. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

How was the af tracking with the 2x TC installed? I'm thinking of the same combination myself. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Wow, that is cheap ~£200 on ebay. Maybe worth a punt. It's relatively slow though at f/6.7. How would the 50-140 compare with a 2x TC on it? I need to retain phase detect focusing for motorsports, I suspect the contrast detection won't be fast enough. Can you still use phase detect at f/6.7? Probably just worth grabbing a go with it for that price. Is there anything longer apart from the 100-400? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

OK, I'm torn. I've recently traded in all my nikon kit and gone Fuji, loving it so far. I'm off to Le Mans soon and last year I took the D810 and the sigma 150-600. Whilst this was completely awesome, I didn't use the lens for anything else as the short end was too long for anything apart from wildlife or motorsport. I don't fancy shelling out £1400 for the 100-400 if I won't get much use out of it. As far as I see it I have a couple of options. 50-140mm f/2.8 with a 1.4x TC. Used one for about £1k. The 55-200 used one for about £400. I think I'll get more use out of the 50-140 when I'm not at Le Mans..... Does anyone have any experience of the 50-140 with the TC. I've heard that the 55-200 is a nice lens. Any other ideas how I can get to 300mm+ effective? Cheers, AJP

If it says evf + eye sensor then you can see the evf but when you remove your eye the lcd is black. I use this as it's really useful for leaving the camera on (for transferring files over WiFi to my phone) but not munching through batteries. Just change the mode to evf + lcd by toggling through the modes using the button on the side of the evf bump. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

You're a star. Ordered, thanks. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Hi, I've got this charger and use it for my Sony lighting batteries as well as my old nikon batteries. You can just buy extra plates for different battery types for about a fiver but I've yet to find w126 plates on their own. Anyone know where I can get just the plates? Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Don't want to hijack the thread but I'm going to Le Mans in a few weeks and am umming and arring between the 55-200 and the 50-140 with a 1.4x TC. Just thinking I might get more use out of the 50-140 in every day use. Although the cost may drive me one way. I've previously had a sigma 150-600 which was ace but I didn't use it for anything else! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Don't forget the focus peaking available on the xt2 and family. Try it with lenses you already have (you have to enable focus peaking and choose the colour in the menu) it's fantastic and you should find it easier than a dslr. I would never consider it with my d810, but have no qualms taking a manual lens out when taking pics of the family. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I have the 16 and the 35 f/1.4 and both are lovely lenses but the 16mm really stands out. Reminds me of the nikon 24mm f/1.4 in its quality. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Oh yes, sorry, I hadn't picked up you had the 56. In terms of other non fuji ones, you can get 8mm, 12mm, 20mm, 85mm. Have a look on ebay / amazon. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I second that. I want a quick way to change af = shutter on and off and exposure preview in evf on and off, neither which are selectable on the q menu or on fn buttons. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

How about a cheap Samyang 50mm f/1.2 for your dark and dingy clubs. That's my latest one and I love it! Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

I'd love a way to force phase detect af in normal modes, not just CH. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Hi, Just traded my d810 in and got myself an x-t2 with some glass and the booster grip. Just shooting family with it whilst I get used to it and figure out what I'm doing. Id like to be able to use phase detect af in continuous tracking mode but I'd like to be able to choose the starting point for the tracking. Like I used to in my nikon. It seems that if I put the camera in wide tracking and CH (continuous high) then it does exactly what I want. However, it takes a minimum of 2 pictures and rattles them off like no tomorrow ! When I drop it to CL it used contrast detection only and is a lot slower. When I pick the zone tracking then I'm not able to choose the starting point, it uses one of the preset presumptions of centre, front or the dubious, auto. Anyone know how I can use phase detect, choose the start point in anything else but CH? Any advice for an ex Nikon Fuji newbie is appreciated. Thanks Andy Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk