frankinfuji

Wife and second born with the 90 f/2 indoors @ ISO 5000
 
DSCF7356 by Filip Hermelin, on Flickr

Haven't shot models for quite some time now, but for good reason, have had other subjects to focus on :-) We've had quite the baby-boom amongst our friends and relatives...
 
X-T2 & 35/2 & X100T.

Because it is fun?

T2 + 56
 
DSCF7728 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr

Fujifilm X-T2 + Helios 40-2
 
DSCF7885 by Kirill Sokolov, on Flickr

Gulpen, the Netherlands (X100S)
 

Gulpen sunset by Pascal van Gerven, on Flickr

Hi,
 
My name is Paulo and I am from Portugal. I have been taking photos for over 20 years now, using Canon EOS for a long time. In the transition from DSLR to MILC I have tried Olympus, Panasonic, Fuji X, and have settled with Sony Alpha 7.
 
But I could not resist going back to the X100T, and so I am here:)
 
You can see more of my work in:
 
www.paulobizarro.com
 
and
 
http://blog.paulobizarro.com/
 
Regards.

The first day of the new year blessed us with amazing Aurora Borealis up here at 78°North.
 
Fuji X-T10   –   XF 16mm f/1,4 WR   –   ISO 1600, f/1.4, 4.3 sec

This looks like an issue with the strong light source in the background. Similar to shooting strong backlit subjects. I've had some issues with with sunset backlit portraits even with the Pro2. I suspect most other cameras would have a 50-50 chance of mistracking under similar circumstances.
 
Before Fujifilm I tried SONY a7ii, 7Rii, 7s, OMD E-M1, Leica Q, M, 240 and to be frank, all of these cameras offer some "magic".....if..... you can accept their many other shortfalls. What is the "best" for you would depend on which suite you are willing to live with. For instance, if I can have Leica lenses mated and working well to the Pro2 body, I would do that.

Warning Long reply
 
Depending on the location depends on the kit, I'm going to present a couple of situation one of which where money is no problem, or you own every lens, the others actual situations that I have experienced/witnessed.
 
City Trip - e.g. New York (cityscapes, street etc)
 
16mm F/1.4 & 56 F/1.2, if one body, one lens on the camera, one in a pocket
 
16mm for your cityscapes and street, 56mm if you want to do some portrait shots without being on top of the people - You want something that is fast for low light photography for the night
 
I've actually done New York with the 18mm F/2 and 35mm F/1.4, The 18mm was used through the day, and the 35mm on the night with very little lens changes throughout the day, I'd probably use the same kit again if I went back.
 
Zoom alternatives 16-55 F/2.8 as a single lens solution, during the day losing 2 stops of light wont be an issue (mostly shooting the city at F/8), at the night, you may miss those 2 stops of light
Mix XF18-55 or XC16-50 for walking around during the day, and a faster lens for the night e.g. 35 F/1.4 or 56 F/1.2
 
 
 
Safari - (assume 2 bodies)
 
Body 1 - XF100-400 (with or W/O TC)
Body 2 - XF18-135
 
100-400 for photographing the wildlife (from a safe distance, don't fancy trying to take a headshot of a lion or leopard with a prime lens)
18-135 as a backup to capture any landscape or other photographs
 
You can swap the 18-135 for any other lens but you will have gaps in focal lengths which may or may not cause you problems, if it is just for occasional landscapes etc, a small prime lens should do fine
 
Cheaper alternatives - XF55-200, or XC 50-230, you may miss the reach (look on flickr at the focal lengths people on safari use) if you're at a zoo either of those would probably do fine, the XC lens can be purchased cheaply 2nd hand but is under rated.
 
If you can't/don't want to invest in the XF100-400 but want more reach (are prepared to sacrifice quality for price, loads of super zoom bridge cameras can be purchased cheaply most only have 1/2.3" sensors but a few have 1")
 
 
Something else?
 
Do research, search flickr or other sites to see what people have used.
 
If I'm going out with no real objective I take 1 body with XF35 F/1.4 lens and maybe the XF18 F/2 in a pocket/bag.
 
I find the approx. 50mm length useful for nearly everything (bar wildlife/birds) I zoom with my feet, if I can't get wide enough i'll put the 18mm on.
 
tldr
 
Apart from wildlife photos most other photographs can be captured with most prime lenses or the zooms (that start at 16mm or 18mm)

with my XT1...
 
​Woods River Jetties-1 by troy_williams, on Flickr
 
pismo 12-30-16-5 by troy_williams, on Flickr
 
grey suit bottom-1 by troy_williams, on Flickr

Pictures taken with the XPro2 and 2 lenses - the Samyang fisheye and the XF18mm at f8

 
 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fuji X-T2
XF 50-140mm @ 80mm 2.8
1/500
ISO 5000
 

 
I always shoot night football on this field with a minimum shutter speed of 1/640, and try for 1/800 at midfield. Unfortunately, I rolled the dial on the finger grip and slowed down my shutter. Luckily Fuji fixed this with the lock feature on the new firmware. Unfortunately, it was after the season was over

Another shot from todays football game. Shot with X-T2 and 50-150/2,8. Slightly cropped JPEG from camera.
 
Estonia vs Greece @A. le Coq Arena, Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr

Use one zoom - 18-135 is bullet proof for travel with its WR and superior stabilization - you always get a good shot. The "kit: 18-55 is good enough and fast enough at 18mm to be your wide angle lens.
 
Add one or 2 primes and force yourself to walk around like we did in the old days. Remember that all the "1" series cameras with a zoom framed correctly are just as good as the "2" with the wrong prime that requires too much cropping. You can buy a "1" very cheaply now that the megapixel race has hit Fijifilm as well.

Looking at the comments it looks to me like the Fuji X series attracts experienced photographers (because of the traditional manual controls and the quality of the lenses), so we know how to work around the issues by switching to manual or using previously assigned back buttons for some nifty focus control, and of course RAW to avoud the much discussed waxy skin.
 
But I don't remember having to work around shortcomings with my Canon or Lumix systems. I still suspect we either tolerate or are happy to work around the issues because we have a favourite lens that other systems cannot match.
 
Mine's the 35 f1.4 and surprisingly the cheap 27mm that was my first Fuji prime.

First pics of the new year. My 4 year old on his bike
 
ISO 4000 looking great.
DSCF6511 by Filip Hermelin, on Flickr
 
 
ISO 8000 still looking solid!
DSCF6546 by Filip Hermelin, on Flickr

Post your first photo from the New Year. Here's mine, low light so some high iso loss of detail, but it was the first...
 

I'll agree that the build quality of the X-Pro1 is pretty good. That was before Fuji started trying to add side doors :-)
 
The thing with all the automation is... That's the whole selling point of the cameras. The IQ of the X-Pro1 is fine. One buys the newer cameras for the promise of being able to get shots where there's not enough time available to go through the procedures you mention. But they don't really deliver on the promise.

Happy New Year! Have fun!
 

 

 
 

Happy New Year
 

Post your first photo from the New Year. Here's mine, low light so some high iso loss of detail, but it was the first...
 

Post your first photo from the New Year. Here's mine, low light so some high iso loss of detail, but it was the first...