darknj

I honestly do not think there will be any price drop for the upcoming 60 days. But keep looking on evilBay, at times some does appear out of thin air at rather good prices. The X100T will be challenging you in a lot of ways, the good thing is you being an hobbist, your muscle memory isn't as deeply set as it has with some of my colleagues. Anyone who jumped brand can tell you that, it takes time to fight against years of muscle memory. Also you will be on a fixed focal length with such a camera, if you are already used to shoot using wide angle primes on your Rebel, you will be all fine with the photo composition. If you are keen on staying with Fuji but just want something smaller, either one of the X-E2, X-M2 and X-A2 might be something to consider, they have the same size as the X100T (roughly) but you keep the possibility of swaping lenses and all 3 of them are under the 1100$ budget line with their kit lens. That being said, I am far from being an expert on the X100 series model, I handled a X100T for half a day once and decided that I didn't liked the hybrid OVF/EVF but that's just one my quirks, nothing to do with the device itself.

It is the Instax cameras that are selling like hot cakes, the printer doesn't really share much of its cousin popularity since the camera are perfectly able to print out the picture itself.

Also waiting for the next iteration of that lens, the current one is part of the first few lenses that was released for the XF mount and it does show its age. I am hoping they would release a WR version of it, it would help me complete my street lenses.

Known one but I really like it. if your photos aren't good enough you're not close enough. - Robert Capa edited since I just noticed I had a duplicate with Tom H. with Chase Jarvis' quote.

I second the hand grip. I got mine after following someone else's advice on the form and quite happy about it. It doesn't really add anything if you are shooting small primes, if the 18-135 is your default lens, it helps a lot to keep it even more stable. But it does add some weight to it. So I always carry my allen key to ditch the grip if it starts feeling annoying.

Gordon's advise with this line up: 12mm 35mm 55-230 Does actually make some sense of you start zooming with your feet, but that would mean you would need to carry all 3 lenses with you at all time and be ready to swap them depending on the subject. Some composition would need some rethinking due to the prime limitations. If you feel adventurous, take that line up, if you prefer more casual picture, take the 18-55 and leave the 55-230 at home and use the 12 mm and instead of capturing details, just capture the whole thing. Quick note, I am posting this after a long day at work, so at this moment, this post make sense to me.

The file viewing limit wouldn't make any sense on such a high end body. Plus, rhinton shoots JPEG + RAW, that's like 3k pictures in total, not really a high number if you ask me. My Nikon 1 can review over 10k of Jpegs without a single hitch, it would seems very queer for the X-T1 to be stopped at 1.5k pictures

You might need to take some time to do all the adjustments then, I know I had changes done to have something more eye pleasing to me for my Jpegs. But as far as I know, the EVF should only have a DR setting of 100, since any other level of DR is just emulated.

Yes, it it's a real one then. Did you scanned the SD card for consistency ? Even real cards, you can still get faulty ones.

Quick question, is it a real 128gb card or one of those cheap knock off?

The DR setting is not applied over he raw file. But it does work over the jpegs. The DR 100 setting is the default one, which I'd the equivalent, more or less, at it being off.

It is very unlikely that any manufacturer would do the FW upgrade to shipped goods. Mostly because of processing time needed for the extra changes. So it is not weird to have a brand new system and still have them on the old FW. The X-T1 I got some months ago, was still on 1.0 version. Which allowed me to even more appreciate the FW 3.0 and even more the 4.0 recently.

The 56mm is known to be a tad bit slow in AF, the 23mm should fare better. Then again, since I do not own either lenses, I could be talking out of my butt, so any of the lenses owners can confirm or correct me on previous statement ?

Regular user of the Black Rapid shoulder strap too. Although I changed for the Metro version of the RS-7 I used to have for those hefty DSLR (D3S, D800,...). I have been looking for a neck strap at times but as soon as I try one out, I regret not having the shoulder strap, so still sticking with them.

As far as I can tell, none of the settings are affecting the raw files, which would be normal behind the ideology of shooting in raw formats. But they are indeed taken into consideration when shooting jpegs. The only setting I am unsure is the DR, it doesn't look like it is being applied to raw files but I am rather uncertain as I did not really set up any tests for that.

Generally speaking, the X-T1 is not that great for moving subject, to an extend, if they are just walking, it should be good enough. That being said, I assume you have the Face Detection feature disabled ? When it's off, it allows you to use the center points as Phase Detect AF, which is faster a bit more reliable. Now, on your case, I would use on Continuous mode zone focus on Mechanical Shutter and use the large 5 x 3 zone so the tracking happens only in that area. It does a decent job on my 5 years old son that likes to hide from me when I try to take a piture of him. Of course not all shots are 100% accurate, I get about half of them good. One question, you say you shoot at F1.2 or F1.4, I guess you are using the 56mm, is that correct ?

It would be super surprise that they would leave any kind of marking on your shots. A colleague of mine who does exclusively concert photos has his Nikkor 24-70 F2.8 front element scartched so badly you would think it wouldn't be able to capture anything without some heavy markings. But it still works, and quite well even! He shoot with a Nikon D800, so if there was anything to to be seen on the front element, it would have been capture by the camera sensor. Also, very sorry to rub it in the face, but that's one of the many reasons I use lens filters.

I haven't got to that point yet. But I did realised that I wanted something smaller for my hobby time. That's when the Nikon 1 AW1 came into my world. Small nervous camera, great AF and ratio weight/Size was quite good, plus it is still the only ILC that can take a fall from 2m, go under water up to 15m and still take picture at -15°C. While I love the Nikon 1 series, I kinda disliked the super poor higer than 1600 ISO file, IQ while perfectly decent for a 1" sensor still left me with much to be desired plus I wanted more controls over the shots. But yes, ever since I got my X-T1, it hardly ever leave my side, I can pack a small bag and carry a lens with it and just go out and shoot. That camera brought me back the pleasure of walking back home from the local train station, it's always the same path but I always try to find something new to take a picture off. At times I have wandered into streets I have never been before and see things in different angle than usually. So while I didn't lose interest in photography as a hobby like it happened to you, I just got myself a camera that I am perfectly willing to take with me every day to continue shooting for fun.

Well seems relatively obvious, send it back for repair. It could be a loose cable or faulty connector. Either way, I am not certain you would want to fiddle with the repairs/investigations yourself.

"Immediate gratification shot" feature. The camera would detect the best composition, you just need to align the green square into the red one and press the shutter.

My heartfelt congratulation for your new street kit :] And you are correct, the camera and lens size is not that important, it's just a matter of personnal preferences and choices. You use what you think is right for your needs.

In overall I would tend to agree with you, but I know that under no condition I can take a shot at 1/10 of a sec at 135mm and not see any camera shake. I am not that stable.

Now THIS is something I can do on a week-end side project

Few hours, certainly not. It's about the speed of your regular wall charger. So if you need about 30 mins to charge it, well.. crank it for 30 mins... Quite note if you decide to crank it, it's not a race! Take your time and just be steady with your movements. I understand it's not perfect but then again, what are you going to do if you can not rely on a power outlet when in the wild ?

Well we know that the 18-135 does hums on constantly. Since the 18-55 also has the Linear Motor, it could be the same behavior.