r_kt

Lance is good for rope design I own two, custom length too!. Dsptch for Paracord, but you can make those yourself. I use upstrap too, but they twist too much for me and aren't as good for going between cross body, shoulder and neck. I use upstrap for my leica

Nice job. always upcycle! after spending time researching new bags in the $200+ range, I was over it. I just use whatever bag I have on hand and stick an insert in. I commute every day on public transit so staying somewhat incognito is best. https://flic.kr/p/SitfGW

another +1 vote for buying a few copies from different sources. I have three and ended up with one that worked out of the box well. the rest need work, like dried up helicoid. the 44-2 is easy to take apart and clean out the elements. The "best" one is a clean, working copy of any version, really. I gaffer taped the aperture ring to f2 and shoot electronic shutter in daylight. i dont much shoot it outside of f2. from my testing of swirl conditions (first pic) https://flic.kr/p/RMobao

Back when I had the XT1, i recall I liked using the 50mm summicron. 35mm and below you may experience some corner softness wide open, possible vignetting. I have nothing to prove that, just memory. If you have Leica glass already, then adapt it! If you are buying Leica glass just to use on your XT1, I wouldn't recommend the purchase just for that purpose only.

Zhongyi LensTurbo II m42 w/ Helios 44-2. I have three copies of the Helios. one was NOS, but the helicoid is all dried up. I need to research how to repair this myself, I recall some vids out there. any one have success? I sent away a Jupiter 8 to get professionally done and it's exquisite, but I think I am over spending more money to service a lens that what I paid for the lens

glad to see this is somewhat still being talked about. I have given up on my EBC 50mm 1.4. And just to be clear there is a difference between the aperture pin (easily adapted) and the lens tab on these lenses being talked about, which doesn't allow for the lens to be fully screwed in the adapter. The one I have the aperture ring has colorful markings (red blue and green) along the ring. I will take a picture of it. Also, not all are created equal (non-EBC): https://jonasraskphotography.com/2013/04/26/fujinon-50mm-f1-4-m42-screwmount/

Didn't have much success on the ebc 50mm 1.4 with an adapter. Trying to find a less destructive solution. If I resort to dremel filing I am worried about metal getiig into the lens

The later version Fuji ebc 50mm 1.4 has a small aperture tab that when you screw into an adapter it prevents changing aperture and the lens doesn't fully screw down. It's different than say the smc takumar aperture tab, which is more internal and I resolved by modifying the flange inside an adapter. Besides grinding down the little tab with dremel tool, anyone know of a less destructive solution?

I use it with and without glasses. When I'm serious shooting I wear contacts. The long eyecup for permanent glasses wearing is likely not the best result. Your eye will actually be further away from the evf and there is slightly more light coming in from the top and bottom. It will not isolate the entire frames of your glasses like you think it would.

Try forgetting the wifi network on the phone and reconnecting. Could also try forgetting the network on the camera as well. I recall when I used the N5, some combination of those two got it to connect. Since moving to an S6, I have better connection results.

I just put the camera in a plastic zip top bag, cut a hole for the front of lens...very effective "weather sealing" (sometimes you'll need to tape down the front where the plastic meets the lens). I do this with my phone too. Also "WR" is not water proof, so I don't think you'll ever not worry 100%. I bought the 35mm f2 and returned it. I don't shoot 50mm FL very often on Fuji and don't need weather sealing or have any size concerns when purchasing a fast wide.

The adapters you would have to use negates your comments about bulkiness IMO, I shoot canon FD, M42 and Leica on my X-T1. The cost of a speed booster is not cheap either ($150-500?, maybe you already own one?). Fast vintage 24mm-ish lenses are also not exactly the cheapest out there. Modern fast 24's designed for non-APS-C sensors with an adapter, is a crazy way to go, unless you have all that gear already. If you want the "real" 35mm focal length experience on a Fuji mirrorless, the answer is the XF 23mm.

reviving old topic: search amazon for: "xcsource adapter fuji m42" (I think it's UK seller) see: http://callumalden.com/post/110549790787/fujinon-m42-fuji-x This a non-flange adapter. So I believe you will need to modify the aperture pin, but the link shows that the aperture transmission pin on Fujinon m42 lenses will clear the adapter when fully screwed in. Otherwise it's trial and error to find one that works. FYI a lot of the flanges can be removed from adapters, which is good for M42 lenses like the Takumar 50mm 1.4 that have M/A switches on the lens itself and also need to have a non-flange adapter so it can focus to infinity. A EBC Fujinon 50mm 1.4 m42 is coming my way and I will test. I currently have a Fotodiox adapter.

I would start by need and style first. For casual evenings, I prefer a "small" shoulder/messenger that could fit a body w/ lens attached and another lens (for me that's the Ona Bowery canvas) For travel or sessions with more gear needed, I still go for shoulder/messenger, "medium" or two (mirrorless) bodies and 2-4 lenses (Hadley Pro, with stacking lenses) For hiking, backpack is better for me for better weight distribution (clik elite compact sport) and I use a Peak Design Capture Clip (assuming weather cooperates) I dont much care for slings or overly boxy/square designs. For your purposes, I would focus on something that will satisfy your travel/backpacking needs, maybe even a hip pack you can wear in the front for easy access. Then buy a cheap camera insert and use a packable grocery/shopping bag (one that you can fit the handles over your shoulder) as your casual option that can be stored away easily in your other luggage.

Ona bowery canvas for "going out on the town" Hadley pro for travel or more serious shooting sessions my daily carry is a cheap $30 canvas shoulder/messenger found on amazon with a 3 partition insert from a random older bag that I wasn't using. Fits camera with one lens and my lunch

In a camera bag is fine, use your lens/body caps. If you have concerns about humidity get some silica gel packs and replace periodically.

Unless you have experience and a need for shooting at 90mm (~135mm equiv mainly for portraits), one of the 35mm is likely you're best choice. 90mm is very tight, so if you are not used to that it will be a challenge. Or buy both online from someone with a good return policy and keep one. Better yet, find a local dealer and try a few. I had both the 35mm f2 and f1.4, but I sold both just because I dont shoot 50mm equiv very often. Both lenses are very good. If I only could buy one lens it would be the 35mm f1.4 (assuming you don't shoot sports and don't need weather sealing).

I sold my A7. I bought it on a whim when it was on sale a few months back. I would like to have kept it for video purposes, but couldn't support a third camera just for ad hoc video. I got rid of it for pure size of the sony system and the portfolio of glass on XF vs FE. 14, 23, 35, 56, 90...it's hard to beat those on any system. Sony will be upping it's game in 2016 though. I also like the Fuji JPEGs better. It's a dream to shoot SOOC JPEGs and just be done for the most part. My workflow is Iridient Developer>TIFF>Lightroom w/ VSCO and yes to this:

I am currently testing a handful of M42 50's: Super Multi Coated Takumar 1.4 Yashica DS-M 1.4 Yashica DS 1.9 Fuji EBC 1.4 2 copies of Helios 44-2 compared to what I already have: Fuji XF 56mm 1.2 Leica summicron f2 Canon FD 1.4 Canon FD 1.8 I don't think there will be any doubt the XF 1.2 will be the "best performer". Pretty much all M42 50's will perform about the same, only subtle differences you'd never be able to distinguish after f/4-ish. My experience with vintage lenses is dependent on the individual copy regardless of model. For instance the Yashica DS-M 1.4 is a good choice, but my copy is a little soft more than expected at 1.4, which is perfect for portraits. Upon dismantling there is light haze in the glued elements that I'll never get rid of (something you can't tell from just pics). Good thing about old lenses is that they are relatively easy to dismantle and clean. Every lens mentioned here is a decent option. I have a great copy of the Canon FD 50mm 1.4, which I very much recommend as an option.

Umm, I doubt you will run into any rain here in California Google California drought At any rate I hope i just jinxed it and you will bring all the rain we need! When I am on the coast I do use a B+W clear 007M filter for salt spray/sand protection. If you are out near/on the ocean at least wipe down/clean your gear each day. Keep a clean/dry micro fiber cloth in your bag for occasional wipe downs if you are worried about it (don't keep it in your pants pocket as lint will be on the cloth and you'll eventually just sprinkle fine dust all over your gear)

1. Can neither agree nor disagree, more of a matter of personal preference to me 2. Maybe I misread, but you can lock the spot meter to the focus point in the menus (already mentioned too). I'd probably use focus lock or manual focus in those situations 3. I can't speak for Macro, it's just not part of my subject matter, but it makes sense why that would roll out later in the road map given the need to flood the market with lenses that will support 90% of shooters. I do support a 70 or 75mm f2. 4. I use yongnuo 560iii's and their wireless triggers and ND's when needed. Manual flash is just something I've been accustomed too since film. I have not tested the Nissin i40 yet, which looks to be a good mix of compactness and TTL 5. Carrying multiple power sources and chargers is just part of doing business for me. Between my Fuji and Sony kits I carry about 10 batteries. Limiting a battery to one form factor may cause future design issues, I can't agree with that.

c'mon work, be over already. should have just brought the dang camera with me today

14, 23, 56 - it's what I own, it's all I need

I really regret that I missed out on the X-T2 through 9

Agreed on selected. But given improvement in AF in low light as well as AF-C with the T line (assuming 4.0 really does make good on its claim) and given the OP's subject matter and lighting conditions, I would go with the X-T1. Right now BH has the E2 for $699, that makes the decision more difficult. If you need to update today, and money is a factor than I would say the T10 is the way to go ( I see it being a "faster", better low light and AF-C performer than the E2...today..or at least when the T10 is actually in the wild). If you need to update today and money is no object than T1. I never settle. Save up another paycheck or three and say "Fuji...take my money" Also, the best point in deciding on a new body is that they come and go, you buy the best you can afford right now and in less than two years you'll do exactly the same.