Antonius

I think DOF at 1.2 is so small that it is easy to move away from focus point during hand holding the camera. I hardly ever shoot at 1.2 and prefer f2. Ive made too many mistakes at 1.2. If you can keep your camera on a tripod and focus shift at 1.2 i think you will get more consistent results Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I was 30 years with Nikon and shifted to XT-1, menus are very clear. Its like the old saying, once you know a system it is easy. But I hardly use the menus at all, everything that is important is on top [emoji23] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I never shoot in auto anything when I can. Auto-mode just leads to inconsistency in your lighting. The EVF has made this soooo easy. I also start of with a light meter just to make [emoji817] sure the camera is not lying. Once the lighting stays the same u r set to go with so much more amazing shots Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Be carefull, the new one might be blurred to the right [emoji23] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Brilliant. I just realized the we need a XT-200 which does not have a LCD screen. Whatever sensor, 16 or 24 I don't mind. Less is more. You can see whetver you want through the EVF anyway. I hardly use the LCD anyway and without it will vastly improve battery life. But due to GAS this will never happen. So view realize it's about shutter, apperture and ISO and the right lens for the light presented when taking the shot. Not the camera box or post processing software. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I tried it out. Very interesting results. I use PS CC and LR CC and so far I am very happy with the results. I am not really a fan of too much sharpening and when I do it my method will depend on the image. One thing I did realize after purchasing IR-X is that it sharpens the whole image. That can be a disadvantage as in some images it does bring out more noise in out of focus areas which I can protect in PS. So use it carefully (well I do). In most cases I will sharpen in PS CC on a luminosity layer in the red channel and get on par to IR-X results. BUT. I have found IR-X can push sharpening way further than what I can achieve in PS or LR.

16, 23, 35 & 58 mm. All primes. I moved away after 30yrs of slow costly Nikkor zooms.

If you use Cannon or Nikon flashes I don't think there you can get more value for money with the Yongnuo RF-603 Wireless Flash Trigger Kit (Transmitter and Receiver). It's all manual, but who shoots TTL in studio setup anyway.

It is always amazing to hear the story behind an image. Thank you for sharing. I too was somewhat confused about the image but now I understand completely. It would be really interesting if you could post a very small original. Sometimes we throw away shots or "delete" them while at the end there is some potential if we dig deeper into our imagination and tools. Regards Antonius

Do a cheap MF 60mm 1:1 or 1:2 for the specialists. Dont need AF.

16, 35 & 56 Currently but it depends on what I'm shooting. For street it would be 16, 23 & 35 (But don't have the 23 yet)

I will be very surprised if something like this comes out now. It really does not make much business sense. It's a very limited market and the main aim of this lens is sports which i don;t think any Fuji system can compete with (with the two other behemoth companies). I think it will come. but much later. The 120 mm macro still needs to come out and the 100-400. Then the upgrade of the 60 macro and new flash systems. Personally I think Fuji's market is <120 mm in prime section and the max is 400 in the zoom.

i love my 16 mm. Awesome lens. I don't really care about the lens hood. It is sharp enough and no-one will really see the difference between other lenses anyway if you present your work on a gallery since they are standing 2 m away anyway. Just buy the Fuji. You will enjoy the quality of the lens. My aperture ring is a bit loose, but i will have to adapt.

Awesome post and a lot of work went into it. Thanks Just waiting for the 120mm macro. I've heard it will be here in March. I hope my rep is right.

120 mm macro please and maybe 200 f1.2

Don't overthink your lens options. Rather understand how you shoot as a photographer and how you prefer to see/envisage your images. Then make your choice. In my opinion, you only need two of the ones you have already.

Mine is quite tight compared to 56 & 35. So I think there might be significant variation in all the lenses. I'm sure Fuji tech can turn a little screw and tighten it somewhat.

I only have the 16, 35 & 56. (Waiting for the 120 macro.)

It seems like the Yungnow YN622C-TX works better than the YN622N-TX. And I think it is because the Cannon version has the legacy option. If you have Nikon gear u might as well opt for the Yongnuo RF-602 Wireless Flash Trigger Kit & Shutter Release since you cannot control the flash output wirelessly on the YN622N-TX (Why I don't know, mine does not work).

I started using the YN622N-TX with two YN622N II on SB-800 and SB-600. It works but completely manual. You can't even change the setting from the transmitter to increase flash exposure, you have to do it on the flash itself. I think it is a bit of an overkill for $200. There must be something simpler as the YN622N-TX has so many functions that you cannot use. The various channels are useless as you have to change the setting on each flash anyway.

Awesome !!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

olli, awesome images, thanks for sharing! Antonius Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi ChatNoir, I remeber taking images with the ugliest ever camera made, the Contarex Special Bullseye. At that stage camera aesthetics did not come into mind, only functionality and the quality of the lenses. The functionality if various Fuji systems seems to be good, their lenses are what makes the image. If the tool works (the lens) who cares about the box Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Karinatwork, I don't know these things because I'm coming from Nikon, after 31 years, one day soon I will be a X-T1 newborn and shooting tethered which I think will be awesome. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No idea what tethered shooting is, wish I could just shoot some images without worrying what type of shot I took Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk