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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    black and white (open thread)

    Though the window in Sanyang, The Gambia. Fujifilm X-T3 & Fujinon XF23mmF2 R WR - ACROS Film Simulation Doing Dishes by Din Dayemi, on Flickr
  2. 2 points

    Fuji Birds

    In India
  3. 2 points


    On the street where I live… Camera: X-Pro2 Lens: 16-80mm f/4

    © 2020 L.P. Pacilio

  4. 2 points

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  5. 2 points

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    X-E2 + 27f2.8
  6. 2 points
    MSC Charleston docked at Port Miami.
  7. 2 points

    Will there be a Fujifilm XE 4?

    i kind of also think it's bull...considering they moved the x-t4 more towards video and the x-pro3 is very very niche with that weird screen...although fuji know their numbers best... i don't get why the viewfinder has to be on top and in the middle? especially on mirrorless...is it just for the looks?
  8. 2 points
    Doug Pardee

    Fuji XT questions

    1. DxO refuses to have anything to do with X-Trans sensors. Until very recently, they refused to have anything to do with Fujifilm at all, even their Bayer-sensored cameras. 2. Fujifilm -- along with Olympus, Panasonic, and Ricoh/Pentax -- honors the traditional "18% gray" brightness target value. That brightness goal was set during the days of B&W photography, and we've learned that color photographs tend to look a bit "underexposed" at that brightness level. For that reason, Canon's DSLRs derate the ISO number, so that you get about one stop brighter image -- about 35% gray. Sony does the same, and Nikon changed over about a decade back. So the "Big 3" manufacturers all use an ISO rating system that produces images about a stop brighter than those produced by Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax. What is measured as ISO 200 on the old "18% gray" plan is now being marked as ISO 100 by the big brands. In fact, when NIkon made the change, people commented about how Nikon DSLRs used to only go down to ISO 200 but now were going down to ISO 100. To get 18% gray on one of the big guy's cameras, you need to meter at twice the ISO that the camera is set to. [By the way, Canon tried the 18% gray target in the Rebel XTi/400D DSLR, and people complained about how dark its pictures were.] When using in-camera metering on Fuji, the multi-zone metering runs about a stop brighter than the "dumb" metering modes. That way Fuji produces the same bright color images that the Big 3 manufacturers do -- in Multi metering mode. But the difference in brightness between in-camera metering modes catches a lot of people off-guard. Personal opinion: the days of "18% gray" are behind us. Canon, Nikon, and Sony have long abandoned that standard, and virtually nobody has complained. It's probably time for Fuji/Oly/Panny/Pentax to make the change, too.
  9. 2 points

    Near and Far

    X-T2, 16-80mm
  10. 2 points
    Wrong, The flippy screen destroys the ease of use enjoyed with the articulating screen of the XT-3 - just for starts. I'm afraid my next upgrade won't happen until Fuji starts making cameras again instead of camcorders. Just my opinion, but I believe there are plenty others out there that agree with me.
  11. 2 points

    black and white (open thread)

    First post, lets see if I can do this...
  12. 1 point

    XT-3 lens mount cap stuck

    Excellent, glad it worked out Ty!
  13. 1 point

    X-T30 Video Overheating Solutions

    I’ve shot years of wedding solo and your friends ask is a tough one as shooting is only a quarter of the challenge. That aside. I just did my first video with the x-t3 and focus was a challenge and the stupid stopped recording in 4K. At least it counts down on the screen to give you a heads up on when it will quit recording (so you can try to get critical vows and such...or an external recorder talked below) ok, the overheating issue. An external recorder is the way to go. It should give you 4:2:2 10 bit 4K and no limit on recording time (completely test this as I have xt3 not xt30 experience) the external recorder needs to have a monitor as part of its package. (My past experience w/ a Canon 5D mark III) it was the back LCD that caused the heating issue so switch to the eye viewer and test to confirm it won’t overheat anymore. on other stuff. Work on video focusing a ton and review footage on a large monitor. HD isn’t forgiving and 4K is even less forgiving. Use one lens and get as familiar as possible using it with video. Dreaming of what’s possible (different lenses, etc) vs the reality of only have one chance at getting it right will put a lot of stress on you. Switching gear in the middle of all this will add stress. (Where do you store the other gear, What pocket is it in, how/when to switch back, where’s that lens cap, did switching introduce dust, a hair, finger print or a little fuzzy thing that will be on all your footage now) Sound: shotgun mic like Rodes with fake fur (deadcat) windscreen on camera as it will isolate most unwanted camera and all your breathing noise (you’ll be huffing/puffing at sometime). Small recorder with small lavalier mic for groom. Recorder goes in jacket breast pocket. Turn on at least 10min. before ceremony and put tape over on/off switch (if groom goes to bathroom ya don’t want him messing with recorder because he’s under stress too and may/will forget to turn it back on) hope I didn’t overstep your ask too much. just want to help you and your family. good luck!
  14. 1 point

    Mountain Juniper

  15. 1 point

    Strange behaviour of 35mm f2 lens

    The "hunting" noise is due to the lens continuously trying to focus . If PRE-AF is set to ON (in AF/MF >PRE-AF ), the lens will keep focusing CONTINUOUSLY in S and C modes (even when the shutter is not pressed) Turn it OFF , and see if that solves the issue
  16. 1 point
    Hi! Anyone who has the X100V - I'm stoked to get the new camera, but I realise that the manual focus ring is smooth but makes a scratchy sound when turning (See attached video). No functions affected but I don’t remember this happening with my previous X100 camera... does anyone have the same problem, or perhaps I have a lemon? thanks in advance. IMG_3636.MOV
  17. 1 point

    Film Simulation?

    Yes + Eterna bleach bypass
  18. 1 point
    Issue resolved! thank you Jerryy, Greybeard and Iamacchiacosta! fastest easiest metadata finder for MOVIE’s fStop, shutter speed, ISO, white balance, lens used, camera used and even film mode IE: Eterna or other...etc It is : ExifTool by Phil Harvey what I didn’t know previously was how to use it and how easy it is to use. quick guide incase someone runs across this thread.... Search and download (MacOS Package) ExifTool by Phil Harvey From his website: exiftool.org install the app, then open the Terminal app that’s located in the tools folder inside the applications folder. Once Terminal is open just type the word exiftool then add a space by hitting the space bar then drag the X-T3 movie file (make sure it’s the original file because I found Final Cut Pro X 10.4.8 reformatted the original file and lost metadata information when I took the “original” file out of FCPX to use) file into Terminal then hit the return bar the results will then appear in Terminal. This is a huge help as I can now go back to a job for some pickup shots and I’ll have all the settings I originally used so I can easily match the look.
  19. 1 point
    Exiftool is almost always the answer for metadata and I use it daily - but if it doesn't meet your needs for video I'd take a look at Mediainfo which sometimes does a better job of actually analysing the video streams - its also multiplatform (even iOS!!)
  20. 1 point

    From the album: Fuji newbie

    © bailyimages

  21. 1 point

    Turtle Rescue

    Injured Loggerhead sea turtle being rescued in Jupiter, Florida.
  22. 1 point

    Turtle Rescue

  23. 1 point
    My shortlist: Chris and Jordan from DPReview, bigheadtaco, Denae & Andrew, Dustin Abbott, Ted Forbes (Art of...) and grandmaster Hugh Brownstone (3bmep). For inspiration I turn to Ted Vieira... not so short list after all and the common denominator is that they refrain from "awesome", "epic" and "I have more gear than God"... 😉 adding Gordon Laing to my long list...
  24. 1 point
    There are a few guys I regard as both knowledgeable and friendly toward Fujifilm gear. Theora Apophosis, Omar Gonzales, Bigheadtaco, Three Blindmen and an Elephant, and the Fuji Guys all come to mind. Of those, Ken Wheeler (Theora Apophosis) stands out for me with his technical acumen, and he has even written an ebook on Fujifilm gear. He is not palatable to everyone, as he is very blunt, and not apologetic for it.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    I’ve had Sony, Panasonic and Canon and prefer Fuji. With my past Canon 5D mark III my wife refused to shoot with it because of the complexities. Fuji isn’t as popular (or should I say: as widely discussed) as some other manufacturers. DXOMARK Still doesn’t have any information on the quality of Fuji lenses and if you study their results many manufacturers seem to have a lot of good and slightly better then good lenses and in reading lensrentals great blog, they’ve done articles on how Lens quality can differ on the same lens, copy to copy, so a serious shooter might have to experience multiple copies of the same lens to find one that was manufactured correctly. with that, I personally think Fuji manufacturers a more quality lens then most manufacturers. My wife likes the X-T3 so much that we both have one. I love the image the camera produces. I love that I can customize the menus so much but I do find diving deep into the menus is confusing and frustrating because there are so many options and preferences in the deeper sub menus that I forget how to get to. I find the LCD finger flick menu more of an issue then a helper. And some items marked for a quick access button don’t work and Fuji doesn’t give you a warning. The 18-55mm Fuji kit lens you mentioned surpasses most everyone’s kit lens. I’ve found fuji’s 80mm 2.8 macro to be an awesomely crisp image lens. I rented the 8-16mm f2.8 for a week long trip to Arizona’s Grand Canyon and that’s all I shot with. It is drop dead the most excellent lens I’ve ever used.. now I’m just waiting for a sale before I buy it. Hope that helps some...
  28. 1 point

    New to Fuji

    Hello, I am an 84 yr old retired U.S. Marine, I live in central Texas. Moved to Fuji from Nikon. I also shoot film with a Nikon FE and a CONTAX RX. I have toured in all 50 states and have taken the official tour of all state capitols, also all but 1 Canadian provinces and 15 states in Mexico. I was a full time RV,r for 13 years
  29. 1 point
    I have an X-E2 and X-E3 though, truth be told, it's the X-E3 that gets the use as my third Fujifilm camera is an X-Pro 2 and there's an X-T4 on order. I'm a professional… have been for, dare I say it, fifty years. So… I love the X-E3 because it reminds me of my old Leica CL, a wonderful little camera I used through the 70's into the 80's. Small, quiet, unobtrusive, it, like the X-E3, was a great little street shooter. I join you in mourning the passing of the X-E cameras. I know mine will be in use until they give up the ghost.
  30. 1 point
    How about Fujifilm building a camera like an X-T4 but with no video possibilities. Could be cheaper ? Thoughts / Opinions anyone ?
  31. 1 point

    Near and Far

    Thanks very much, Jerry!
  32. 1 point

    Near and Far

  33. 1 point
    Olaf W.

    New to Fuji - Advice Required

    Welcome to our forum! The X-T10 would not really be a step up since it's an older model than the X-T100. Go for the X-T30 (or X-T3).
  34. 1 point
    The "Digital Split Image" focus assist (as implemented on fuji's cameras) requires a display, so in pure OVF it is not possible to use it. However, on the x-pro2 you can also add a little display in the lower right corner of the viewfinder: set it to "ERF mode" : http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-pro2/first_step/monitor/index.html#viewfinder_selector You should then be able to have the split image on the little EVF, with the rest of the viewfinder still in optical.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I'll tell you what. I DO NOT LIKE THE DIRECTION OF FUJI AT THE MOMENT. If you want video, buy a camcorder, period!!
  37. 1 point

    Winter Landscapes

  38. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    Hi, Shot from streets of Istanbul XH1+16/1.4 Hungry by Abdulaziz Ceylan, on Flickr
  39. 1 point

    barque canet.jpg

    From the album: Guy Poizat

  40. 1 point
    Is this thread still a thing? I know I'm late to the party, but after looking at all that food, I feel compelled to comment. But first, I must say, many compliments to Chef! Your food looks awesome. As the second post notes, this is real food, not the staged stuff. I'm probably not smart enough to just stay out of this, especially since the thread is so old. However, I looked at all your photos on Flickr, and noticed a couple things. First, I see that every shot was in Auto Exposure mode, and your metering mode varied some. Your lighting also seemed to vary from ambient to occasional flash, although I didn't see any utilizing TTL. I haven't photographed any food, but I've done some product shots for my wife's craft endeavors. As a starting point for a shoot, I would suggest the following: If you're having trouble matching your lens to the framing in a manner that suits you, consider a small telephoto, but from what I see, your 50 mm lens should do OK. Put your camera in Manual mode. You'll need to know more about the scene than your camera does. Set your metering to Multi mode. Use a good speedlight off-camera with an umbrella or softbox. A light stand for your key light, and a tripod for the camera. Have a white reflector or two to control the shadows. Set the aperture wide open for framing only. Set the shutter to sync speed, or slower. Set the flash on manual at 1/4 power, and face it into the umbrella. Now set the aperture to f8 or f11. You won't be able to see the shot well, but the flash is now essentially your exposure, shutter speed, and key light. Take a test shot and evaluate. Move the flash power and/or compensate it until you get an exposure that suits you. If you don't want to go so far as the umbrella, you can probably do well bouncing the flash and using a reflector or two. You also mentioned you're working in a small space. I find using Camera Remote works well when you can't huddle around the camera body. Once you get a composition and light coverage you like, make the flash power the fine tuning for the exposure. I don't see a scenario such that the flash will do a good job on-camera. It needs to be off. Did you get an EF-X8 flash with your camera? I find that little flash in Commander mode works extremely well triggering any larger flash with an optical slave mode. I hope this helps literally anyone, but I can't write more right now; I'm going to the OP's website to look at more food right now.
  41. 1 point
    Hi! I have owned the Fuji 18-55 mm f 2.8-4 for a while, and now the upgrade itch got to me and I had to try out a Fuji 16-55 mm f2.8. After watching almost every review out there, I was really wondering if I would notice the difference in practical use. My first shots were disappointing in that regard, when just zooming in on my camera screen the pics looked very similar. Then I rigged up a tripod and did some more systematic comparisons - reviewing them on my computer. These screen shots from Capture One is very representative from what I found. I tried out various aperture settings and took many more pictures, but I believe these are basically telling the amount of difference in sharpness between the 18-55 and the 16-55. Focus was of course placed at the same spot. On the globe, it was on the A of Australia, on the car it was on the wheel. I noticed a difference in the bokeh on the globe-picture even if both lenses are set to f4 in that shot (the bokeh ball from the lamp across the street is bigger with the 16-55). Anyway - hope this is useful for someone, and it would be interesting to hear other user experiences. 😃 My conclusion is that the 18-55 is very good, but if you want to crop your images or print them very big, the 16-55 definitely is sharper. Pictures were taken with my X-h1
  42. 1 point

    Green Iguana - Florida Wetlands

    Green Iguana shot @ Delray Beach Florida. File Name: D:\Fuji\Green-Iguana-1.jpg X-T2 1/60 sec f/8 ISO 640 Metering Mode: Spot Focal Length: 400 mm
  43. 1 point

    Fuji X: Tips & Tricks

    Here is a feature that caused me some grief. If you select Auto for Dynamic Range, the LCD and EVF will no longer display shutter speed and aperture except when the shutter button is pressed halfway. It took me a while to figure out why shutter speed and aperture were missing from the display.
  44. 1 point

    Landscapes in b&W (open thread)

    Since there is no topic for landscapes in b&w, I thought let's create one... Cloudy day by #1923#, auf Flickr
  45. 1 point
    Jose Carpin

    "Yangon Circular Railway"

    "Yangon Circular Railway" Yangon, Myanmar 2017 Fuji X-T2 + XF16mm f1.4 R WR + XF35mm f1.4 Instagram: jose_carpin_photographer Website: www.josecarpin.com 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
  46. 1 point

    black and white (open thread)

    Orléans XT1 & 35/1.4
  47. 1 point

    Streetphotography (open thread)

    Jump by Adam Bonn, on Flickr X-Pro2 and xf35
  48. 1 point
    Food photography is all about styling. Photography is simple, use a sturdy tripod since exposures can be on the long side, normal lens for natural perspective, f/8.0 or f/11 for adequate depth of field, base ISO setting. The Toit would do fine. Since the food is not in motion, there is no problem doing a four-second exposure at f/11 at ISO200. Unless you just can not get the whole image in focus, don't go much beyond f/11. Diffraction has already begun at f/11, though it is still not noticeable. Beyond f/11 it increases substantially. Do a test shot. If it is over or under, use the exposure compensation dial to nail it. The food is totally patient, so there is no need to rush while getting it right. Manual exposure works fine as well. Avoid wide apertures. Food really needs to be fully seen and shallow depth of field simply looks out of focus. Consider the background. Unless it carries with it some meaningful information, a bit of softness does not hurt. Of course, this nullifies the prime advantage of the 56mm, which is far more suited to photographing people where shallow DOF can be useful. If I needed the added focal length, I would trade for the brilliantly sharp 60mm f/2.4 which also gives you much more closeup capability. If you have not studied food styling, you will be amazed at the voodoo that goes into it. Most photographed food is inedible. That perfectly done turkey has been varnished the perfect colour and shine! Ice cream melts, so mashed potatoes or lard are used in its place. Ice also melts, so ice cubes and crushed ice is clear plastic. Sparkling vegetables have been sprayed with glycerine. Grapes get their patina via talcum powder. It is well covered on the web. Search for 'food photography tricks of the trade'. If anything the X-T2 is overkill. The images on your page are less than one megapixel. You are throwing away more than 23MP of detail. What could a more expensive camera possibly give you? If you were shooting food professionally, it is fully capable of display prints for use in mall food booths or restaurants, of enormous size and clarity. If you have doubts, don't take my word for it. Rent a dSLR and try using it and the X-T2 on the same setup.
  49. 1 point

    Cityscapes with Fujifilm X

    Hello, For my first post, I wanted to share some of my N.Y.C photos taken with my x-e2 ! 1) 2) 3) Have a nice day
  50. 1 point

    Fuji Birds

    Hello, took by 50-140
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